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Old 10-22-2011, 07:07 PM   #15
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2013 27' FB Classic
North Wales , Pennsylvania
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We always use a socket to get it off. If you have damaged it, they are inexpensive to replace ($1.50 to $4.00 depending on where you buy it).

Here is a link from Amazon that has a good picture:

Amazon.com: ATWOOD MOBILE PRODUCTS 91857 DRAIN PLUG 1/2"(2) PLASTIC

This link will help you in determining if the part will fit your your water heater, or just bring the plug down to the local RV dealer:

Atwood 91857 Drain Plug Half Inch 2per PK Water Heater Parts Trailer Camper RV

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-22-2011, 07:10 PM   #16
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Perfect! And I was more worried about it than the still bleeding knuckles.

Thanks much.
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Old 10-22-2011, 07:36 PM   #17
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MStewart,

Good luck with the new rig!

We will still do a couple of fall "dry" camping trips this fall. We will go to a RV Resort in Gettysburg that has keeps its facilities open, and maybe a State Park that is close to home.

We bring along a 5 gallon water container, and will use the galley sink. We will drain the grey water tank and pour some antifreeze down the drain again.

Another pointer -- we have found that a small ceramic heater does a fantastic job of keeping the trailer nice and toasty. We bought this one earlier this year, and used it a couple of weeks ago at the Penwood Fall Colors Rally:

Amazon.com: Lasko 754200 Ceramic Heater with Adjustable Thermostat: Home & Garden
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:09 PM   #18
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2010 27' FB International
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Best bet is a crescent wrench on the water heater plug. If you have destroyed the nylon head on the plug...pick up a new one. Also, you don't have to tighten the plug quite that much. Don't forget to close the hot and cold inlet/outlet at the water heater and open the bypass BEFORE you add the antifreeze. That stuff will ruin your water heater. Also, if you have blown each and every line out with air AND emptied the water pump COMPLETELY AND drained all your holding tanks...you don't really need to add antifreeze. The best way to empty your pump? Unscrew the inlet line and the outlet line from the pump. Now, blow air into the inlet side slowly until all the water is out of the pump. It will exit at the outlet line from the pump. After you do this...turn on the pump for just long enough to hear that there is no more "gurgling" water sound.

Lastly, add the antifreeze to each drain (shower, sinks, toilet) so it replaces the pure water in each of the pea traps. Make sure there is an inch or so in the toilet...on top of the flush flapper. That will keep it lubricated.

Just for the record...while I do store my unit indoors...unheated...I have never removed the TV or radio and it does just fine. Be sure to take the batteries home and store them in a cool, dry location. Don't store the directly on a cement floor. Just put something under them...rubber matt...couple layers of carpet...etc. Put a trickle charger on them.

Note: I always take a picture of the wiring to the battery before I disconnect everything. It's amazing how much you WON'T remember following a long winter.

Ok...I've talked enough. Good luck. Happy Airstream'n.
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:13 PM   #19
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Water Heater Drain Wrench

I use a long handled 7/8" box wrench. It is long enough to clear the metal shield. I have a '97 25' Safari. My water pump is below the counter top in the galley, and right next to the heater. Pulling the drawers out give me room to stick my head in and see what is going on. I did have to back off the mounting screws to the pump to add the fitting to suction side of the pump to be able to draw in the RV anti-freeze. I live in the Pacific Northwest, in Washington state, so not taking chances without the pink stuff.
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Old 10-25-2011, 03:16 PM   #20
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On "most" water heater drain plugs I've seen, you can use a socket and extension to remove it ... there's a clear path to do this ... so you don't have to try to use a wrench or channel locks, etc. and risk either knuckles or the plug itself. Get down low and look up at the plug and I'll bet you will see the path to use a socket.
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:37 AM   #21
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Thanks all. Was using a crescent wrench but obviously not very well. The plug was quite resistant to being turned. Got a new plug and socket with extension. Next fall hopefully knuckles will not get mangled. Almost healed now.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:34 AM   #22
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I have considered replacing the plastic water heater plug with a metal one or valve that I just have to open or close. Still haven't done it, but it is an alternative. So far I have used channel locks to remove or tighten it and am slowly chewing it up, but my knuckles are still intact.

Gene
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