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Old 10-17-2017, 08:38 PM   #21
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2016 28' Pendleton
East central , Illinois
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Skip,
Think about a hex head cap screw with a dimple in the center of the head. Then imagine a point that protrudes slightly above the crown of the head centered in that dimple that will leave a pin punch mark in the underside of the flange when you strike the flange with a hammer above the transfer screw.
If one uses three transfer screws, striking the flange above each transfer screw might be faster, but if the jack shifts between strikes, imperfect alignment might result. I would think it would be safer to mark and drill one hole, then locate the next two holes after putting a screw through that first hole to insure the alignment is right. If a small misalignment does occur, oversized holes should not be a problem if you use hardened washers above them.
Don't forget to use the star washer included with the Husky Superjack to insure electrical continuity.

Let me know if I need to explain any of that in more detail. McMaster Carr's web site is pretty easy to use and has a great search engine to help you find the parts.

Bob
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Old 10-17-2017, 08:59 PM   #22
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By the way, when I installed the husky 5000 Lb jack on my TT, I did not have to rotate it. I use a BO hitch on a Pendleton so ymmv..
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:52 PM   #23
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2017 26' Flying Cloud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Stone View Post
Can someone explain the specialty screws previously discussed?
Thanks, Skip
A set comes with four or five of the same size. 1/4 x 20 or 3/8 x 16 or M-6, etc.
You screw the small threaded punch into the existing threads, put the desired workpiece over it, and tap it with a hammer.
It leaves a dimple that's perfectly centered in the existing hole.

The large part stores the fittings and acts like a handle to aid screwing them in.
I suppose if you had a metal piece that you wanted to copy multiple marks to, you'd screw a fitting into all the holes and tap it on the new work piece. But with a jack, the possibility of it moving in the 2 1/4" hole is cause for error since you can't tap it dead center..
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GinaNBob View Post
By the way, when I installed the husky 5000 Lb jack on my TT, I did not have to rotate it. I use a BO hitch on a Pendleton so ymmv..
It depends on the tow vehicle and the hitch. A longer shank is one option, and some trucks clear. My Tundra needs another inch or two. The bed is 23" deep so the tailgate is higher.
I'd love to find a shank 2" longer, but although there's a lot of shanks for sale, Equalizer measures different than Curt, so a 18" shank from one is equal to a 14" shank from the other. Then match up the correct drop, and suddenly, there's not that many choices.
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Old 10-18-2017, 06:20 PM   #25
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2016 20' Flying Cloud
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This is the message I received from Anna, a very helpful Husky representative. I have a 2015 F-150 with an equalizer hitch and need approximately 2.5 additional inches of clearance to lower the tailgate. I formerly had an Atwood 3000 that constantly failed, and the Barker Jack can be rotated, however I needed more lift power and the Husky had very favorable reviews..... Skip
(I am unable to attach the power jack measurements she provided)

"Our jacks do not off the option to rotate the head assembly, however you may be able to rotate the mounting plate to align differently on the trailer"


Thank You
Anna Swann
Tech Service & Warranty Adviser
Husky and Powerhouse Products
Keystone Automotive Operations, Inc.
Ph: 800-538-7973 Ext 3874
Fax: 855-242-8922
amunger@key-stone.com
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