Visit our Popular Forums

Mollysdad · 10-16-2017, 12:48 PM

Okay, help me think out loud.

The current coupler has holes for the jack drilled and tapped at 0 degrees, 120 degrees, and 240 degrees (with zero facing forward.)
So if I drill new holes in the jack flange, but want the jack facing the driver's side and parallel to the propane tanks, I'd add holes at 30 degrees, 150 degrees, and 270 degrees on the jack post flange.
Basically, adding 30 degrees past the existing holes.
So when I turn the jack 90 degrees, my zero hole will be at 90 and I want a new hole at 120 or another 30 degrees.

Agree?
I confess I took two pieces of paper, one was the coupler holes and the other the jack flange and turned it.

rmkrum · 10-16-2017, 01:05 PM

Your math sounds correct, but I would mark the holes, and test fit before you drill.

I must admit that I would have just made a stiff cardboard pattern from the existing holes, slit it with a center hole for the jack post clearance, twisted it into the 'right' position, and marked the new holes off on the flange. With my mild dyslexia, I would probably have ended up with a few extra new holes...

Especially if I worked from the bottom of the jack flange (sigh).

Then I would have drilled them a bit bigger than needed, and filed/bashed to fit as needed. Bunch of appropriate star-type lock and flat washers, all in stainless, plus stainless bolts and nuts.

Fortunately, with my much longer ProPride hitch setup, the jack motor is well clear of the tailgate, so I haven't had to do this yet...if I get wild and get a flagpole holder, I'll have to do this...

Al and Missy · 10-16-2017, 01:38 PM

I think you are right, but I'm having a terminology problem. Degrees are typically specified as clockwise from 0. If 0 is straight ahead referenced to the trailer and you turn the jack 90 degrees ccw to face the road side it will put that hole at 270. The closest hole in the frame is at 240 degrees. So you need new holes at 30 degrees ccw from the existing holes.

Al

Mollysdad · 10-16-2017, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

I think you are right, but I'm having a terminology problem. Degrees are typically specified as clockwise from 0. If 0 is straight ahead referenced to the trailer and you turn the jack 90 degrees ccw to face the road side it will put that hole at 270. The closest hole in the frame is at 240 degrees. So you need new holes at 30 degrees ccw from the existing holes.

Al

Yes. I went CCW because I wanted the jack turned 90 degrees and ending up facing the driver's side and saying "turn it 270" seemed counterintuitive. (but correct)

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmkrum

I must admit that I would have just made a stiff cardboard pattern from the existing holes, slit it with a center hole for the jack post clearance, twisted it into the 'right' position, and marked the new holes off on the flange.

I will, but the trailer is not at the house, so I wanted to think it through before loading up the tools.

GinaNBob · 10-16-2017, 06:19 PM

You might try using transfer screws (self aligning center punches for threaded holes). Just mark the circumference of the jack as it is, then remove the jack, install the transfer screws, position the jack in your desired location/position and tap the flange above each of the transfer screws with a hammer. Now all your holes are marked on the underside of the flange. Just drill your new holes at the punch marks and you are guaranteed a perfect fit. You can find the transfer screws at McMaster Carr or any number of other industrial supply sources. They are pretty inexpensive and make this type of job much easier.

Bob

GMFL · 10-16-2017, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Okay, help me think out loud.

The current coupler has holes for the jack drilled and tapped at 0 degrees, 120 degrees, and 240 degrees (with zero facing forward.)
So if I drill new holes in the jack flange, but want the jack facing the driver's side and parallel to the propane tanks, I'd add holes at 30 degrees, 150 degrees, and 270 degrees on the jack post flange.
Basically, adding 30 degrees past the existing holes.
So when I turn the jack 90 degrees, my zero hole will be at 90 and I want a new hole at 120 or another 30 degrees.

Agree?
I confess I took two pieces of paper, one was the coupler holes and the other the jack flange and turned it.

DO NOT DRILL HOLES. TO TURN THE HEAD OF THE JACK ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS LOOSEN THE ALLEN SET SCREWS AND ROTATE THE JACK HEAD. NOT THE WHOLE JACK!!!!!
Very easy to do. It will take less than 1 min to complete the job.

GMFL · 10-16-2017, 06:45 PM

Head rotates and is locked in place with 3 Allen set screws

pcskier · 10-16-2017, 06:59 PM

As just mentioned before this post...why do geometry and then drill holes? Your jack should have 3 allen screws near the top under the main gear assembly. Removed your propane tank cover, loosen those, then rotate the jack. Tighten screws. Done.

Mollysdad · 10-17-2017, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMFL

DO NOT DRILL HOLES. TO TURN THE HEAD OF THE JACK ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS LOOSEN THE ALLEN SET SCREWS AND ROTATE THE JACK HEAD. NOT THE WHOLE JACK!!!!!
Very easy to do. It will take less than 1 min to complete the job.

You know we're talking about the Husky Super Brute 4000/5000, yes?
Where are these three set screws you speak of?

DreamStreamr · 10-17-2017, 08:51 AM

I thought GMFL and PCSKIER had it solved til you complicated it with changing the jack brand from what we were apparently thinking. I have the almost original Barker on mine (first one failed a few months in) and spinning the head 90 deg was simple.

And I wish I'd thought of rotating it to driver's side instead of curb side. All these years I've been reaching over the top and operating the up/dn switch from wrong side. Too funny, and easy to fix on mine (I hope). On the other hand, maybe shouldn't disturb this venerable old jack now. It's working fine as is.

I love the transfer screws idea. Never heard of it. Air Forums rocks!

dznf0g · 10-17-2017, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

You know we're talking about the Husky Super Brute 4000/5000, yes?
Where are these three set screws you speak of?

Contact Husky. I gotta believe there is a way to rotate the head.

wcrockett · 10-17-2017, 09:42 AM

agree. You can loosen the allen screw and rotate the head on the jack that airstream uses on this trailer. That is how I rotated the jack on my 2012 27FB. Maybe his 2017 27FB is using a different jack.

**GCinSC2** · 10-17-2017, 10:26 AM

But to figure the X Y coordinates for drilling is it sin or cosin pos or neg when rotate CCW and viewed upside down. And is it the same if your in the Southern Hemisphere.

Got to figure it out folks!

Mollysdad · 10-17-2017, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wcrockett

agree. You can loosen the allen screw and rotate the head on the jack that airstream uses on this trailer. That is how I rotated the jack on my 2012 27FB. Maybe his 2017 27FB is using a different jack.

Airstream is using an Atwood 4000.
It has a triangular base, so drilling new holes is not possible. Rotating the head would be nice but I can't see how.

I picked the Husky because of the good reviews and the price is better than the Barker.

GMFL · 10-17-2017, 11:07 AM

That head should rotate ti allow for multiple mounting angles. Not all trailers are the same and they want their jack to work on all of them so they design them to be adjustable. These jacks are not just used on travel trailers but utility trailers also

Mollysdad · 10-17-2017, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GMFL

That head should rotate ti allow for multiple mounting angles. Not all trailers are the same and they want their jack to work on all of them so they design them to be adjustable. These jacks are not just used on travel trailers but utility trailers also

I'll e-mail Husky, but all trailers I've seen seem to have the same 3 hole mount.
Too bad they didn't settle on a four hole mount and for the cost of a bolt, all the problems would be solved.

glenrms · 10-17-2017, 02:28 PM

That's what I did and it has been working fine for the past 2 years. I didn't over think it because I didn't see any other way to do it.

Mollysdad · 10-17-2017, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DreamStreamr

I love the transfer screws idea. Never heard of it. Air Forums rocks!

Me too. I learn new stuff every day.
I'd have to try it once to see how they work. Watching YouTube they transfer one hole at a time.
Put in one transfer screw, tap the plate, then move screw to second hole, bolt in first hole and tap second, etc.

BTW, the bolt holes seem to be a standard 3/8". E-bay has a set of 3/8 x 16 transfer screws for $9.

I also learned that the holes in the jack flange are standardized to be 3" from the center of one to the center of the next, etc.

Skip Stone · 10-17-2017, 07:26 PM

I am researching similar tailgate clearance issue and the Husky power jack. I contacted Husky and they stated the power head cannot be rotated and we need to drill new holes to rotate the entire jack. Can someone explain the specialty screws previously discussed?
Thanks, Skip

guskmg · 10-17-2017, 08:18 PM

Skip: Are they telling you the Husky Jacks cannot be rotated to fit Airstreams with propane tank covers? If so what a bummer! If is a jack that you can just loosen the screws to rotate the head. As already said: Bring the jack all the way up to the top stop, lower it slightly, loosen the screws, pick up the head and turn it to the desired direction and place it back down on the jack post. Motor/jack post alignment may require repositioning the post, as above, to insure the motor limit works before you hit the up post movement limit.
Does anybody have list of jacks that won't work on Airstreams. That would be handy info to have for future jack emergency purchases.
guskmg