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11-24-2013, 06:58 AM
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#1
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Jack Broken, can't get on the road!
Does anybody know if this jack has a "manual mode"? I know some of the more modern electric jacks will allow you to insert a handle some place in case of failure, but this is the one that came with camper--in 1973.
Couple pictures.
Thanks gang!
Jim
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11-24-2013, 07:02 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2009 27' FB Flying Cloud
1982 31' International
1991 35' Airstream 350
Jay
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,706
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Use your vehicle's jack to get the trailer on the hitch.
Without the weight of the trailer on it, one might be able to retract it by hand to travel.
Or simply unbolt the entire thing from the tongue and remove it.
Regards,
JD
__________________
Jeff & Cindy
'09 27FB Flying Cloud;'82 31 International
'91 350 LE MH; '21 Interstate 24GT
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11-24-2013, 07:10 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1997 25' Excella
Waterville
, Minnesota
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 44
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Jack problems
Try to turn the nut on the top, that should work. My jack needs a 9/16 socket to do this.
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11-24-2013, 07:36 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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You might be able to use an electric drill with a socket to drive it up and down till you can get it replaced or repaired properly.
Perry
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11-24-2013, 07:38 AM
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#5
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Jim,
Take the motor head off, the shaft underneath should turn.
Look for a wench like this.
A large screwdriver would also work.
Bob
__________________
Im done with adulting
Lets go find Bigfoot.
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11-24-2013, 08:03 AM
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#6
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Always learning
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,881
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Hi Jim,
Bummer. I had this happen in the middle of a summer trip. Luckily it was in Denver, CO and I wasn't far from a Camping World to get a manually operated jack. I tried to get the old electric jack to operate manually,but I wasn't successful. I think you'd be best off to jack it up with a bottle jack, remove the old electric jack, make a trip to Tractor Supply for a new manual jack, install it and be on your way. Good luck!
__________________
Lance
Work is never done, so take time to play!
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11-24-2013, 08:19 AM
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#7
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
Jim,
Take the motor head off, the shaft underneath should turn.
Look for a wench like this.
A large screwdriver would also work.
Bob
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Motor head off, used crowbar to turn the shaft. Guess how I figured it out? I looked in the shop manual. DOH! if all else fails, RTFM.
Thanks everybody, once again, for all the great tips.
Jim
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11-24-2013, 09:24 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
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You might want to try powering that jack directly from a 12v battery.
I had problems with mine (looked very much like yours and had no provision for manual operation).
At first I measured voltage coming from the trailer and it seemed ok. I checked the switch as well and it seemed fine. Then I notices that when I would try to switch the jack on, it would not work and also the small light on the jack would go out.
I then tried wiring a battery directly to the jack and found that it worked fine.
Turned out that the problem was a very poor ground to the jack. The ground connection was good enough to show voltage at the jack, but not good enough to pass enough current to run the jack motor.
New ground connection and problem solved!
If that isn't the problem, I would just raise the trailer tongue with a bottle jack and remove the trailer jack so you can replace it.
Brian
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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11-24-2013, 09:29 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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That jack probably has a seized motor. It looks like there has been a lot of water and no maintenance for 40yrs. I am sure it can be fixed with a little TLC. Even if there is a wiring problem that jack needs some R&R.
Perry
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11-24-2013, 10:38 AM
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#10
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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This is why everything leaving my shop has a sidewinder….
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11-24-2013, 11:04 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
Port Hadlock
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
This is why everything leaving my shop has a sidewinder
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Any particular one, Frank? Thinking about changing mine with the top crank that is always in the way.
Sorry for the semi hijack.
-steve
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11-24-2013, 11:52 AM
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#12
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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I use the BAL sidewinder usually. #1000 or #2000 depending on the trailer.
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11-24-2013, 01:14 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1957 22' Caravanner
Port Hadlock
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 864
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Thanks, Frank.
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11-25-2013, 01:43 PM
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#14
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Just wanted to say thanks again for all of the suggestions. The problem with the jack is that one of the gears is stripped. The gear that sits between the electric motor and the main shaft is toast. Unbelievably, it's not made of metal. It's made out of a composite material (that I can't remember the name of) ;that I've seen in other places on the camper.....the electrical wall outlet boxes for example. Equally unbelievable to me is that it lasted 40 plus years. I'm going to poke around a little and see if I can find that gear anywhere, but bet it's a lost cause. The part numbers are actually in the shop manual.
Frank, what sidewinder would you recommend for this camper? It's a '73 Overlander that has a dry weight of about 4500 lbs. Max loaded about 6000 lbs.
I priced both new electric and simple mechanical today at a local RV place. Hand crank runs around $50. New electric models start around $200 and go up from there. Simple sounds good right now.
Jim
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11-25-2013, 03:11 PM
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#15
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Moderator dude
1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
The problem with the jack is that one of the gears is stripped. The gear that sits between the electric motor and the main shaft is toast. Unbelievably, it's not made of metal. It's made out of a composite material (that I can't remember the name of)
Jim
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Jim,
That gear is likely designed to be non-metallic. This design is for safety or protection. So when the in-movable object meets the irrestable force something gives. This would be the designed item that gives. Typically made of a plastic (phenolic resin) or a fibre material.
This jack being 40 years of age two things may be stated about it. The grease inside did not and was not designed to survive this long and may be part of the problem
To some this jack even broken may have value to the purist or the restorer. And as such if you are pitching it you might consider offering it to some one to restore for the price of shipping.
Just some thoughts.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Streamless.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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11-25-2013, 03:28 PM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
2004 30' Classic
Hillsborough
, New Jersey
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Just wanted to say thanks again for all of the suggestions. The problem with the jack is that one of the gears is stripped. The gear that sits between the electric motor and the main shaft is toast. Unbelievably, it's not made of metal. It's made out of a composite material (that I can't remember the name of) ;that I've seen in other places on the camper.....the electrical wall outlet boxes for example. Equally unbelievable to me is that it lasted 40 plus years. I'm going to poke around a little and see if I can find that gear anywhere, but bet it's a lost cause. The part numbers are actually in the shop manual.
Frank, what sidewinder would you recommend for this camper? It's a '73 Overlander that has a dry weight of about 4500 lbs. Max loaded about 6000 lbs.
I priced both new electric and simple mechanical today at a local RV place. Hand crank runs around $50. New electric models start around $200 and go up from there. Simple sounds good right now.
Jim
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You actually were lucky that it lasted for so many years. I have an '04 - 30 foot classic and had that happen several years ago on a trip. It was the same small gear that broke. I was able to replace the gear with very little difficulty. Wolf
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11-25-2013, 06:04 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6,408
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I hear the replacement gear is cheap. You can then support the frame and cycle several times to lubricate. If binding you can try fixing.
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
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11-25-2013, 07:28 PM
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#18
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Always learning
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,881
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Phenolic gear
Hi Jim,
I have one of those phenolic gears. If you want it, let me know. I'd be happy to send it to you. I think they are still in production.
Worm gear for Airstream Superjack. SKU3125 [010051] - $54.95 : Out-of-Doors Mart!, More Airstream Parts on-line than anyone!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Just wanted to say thanks again for all of the suggestions. The problem with the jack is that one of the gears is stripped. The gear that sits between the electric motor and the main shaft is toast. Unbelievably, it's not made of metal. It's made out of a composite material (that I can't remember the name of) ;that I've seen in other places on the camper.....the electrical wall outlet boxes for example. Equally unbelievable to me is that it lasted 40 plus years. I'm going to poke around a little and see if I can find that gear anywhere, but bet it's a lost cause. The part numbers are actually in the shop manual.
Frank, what sidewinder would you recommend for this camper? It's a '73 Overlander that has a dry weight of about 4500 lbs. Max loaded about 6000 lbs.
I priced both new electric and simple mechanical today at a local RV place. Hand crank runs around $50. New electric models start around $200 and go up from there. Simple sounds good right now.
Jim
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__________________
Lance
Work is never done, so take time to play!
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11-25-2013, 07:40 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
1984 34' International
Toronto
, Ontario
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,499
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In October, I got stuck with a dead battery. Either I left the storage switch on on or one of the kids moved it - who knows.
Anyway, I was 10 minutes from a campground with hookups, but couldn't get there because the jack wouldn't move - in the end I had to borrow a battery from another WBCCI member to get going. I've been thinking about replacing the electric jack with a hand powered one ever since.
Is there a recommended model? Ideally, there's a model out there that accepts a power drill when available, muscle power when not.
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11-26-2013, 06:33 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Saline
, Michigan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 854
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Just curious , could you have jumpered it from your vehicle?
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