electric jack...that darn fiber gear again!

[JohnGalt48]

Anyone recognize the jack I've got here in the pic above? I sure don't see anything that would limit it's travel so as not to strip the fiber gear.
Do I have an "unsynchronizable" jack?
Guy

[Ira Iburg]

No problem, just go to an auto parts store and pick you up one maintenance stand and when not hooked to the tow vehicle let the tonge rest on this stand and it may last for years, ours lasted 29 years and still going when we sold the unit

[53flyingcloud]

Originally Posted by JohnGalt48

Anyone recognize the jack I've got here in the pic above? I sure don't see anything that would limit it's travel so as not to strip the fiber gear.
Do I have an "unsynchronizable" jack?
Guy

Guy,
Something just begs to be replaced and, I suspect you'd do yourself a "HUGE" favor in doing just that..
I'd recommend this:
Buy a new one and, enjoy camping`
ciao
53FC

[eubank]

Yeah, ours crapped out on the 67 some years ago. And I replaced it with the old-style crank-type jack. It works great. And given that older Airstreams don't exactly weigh that much, it's also easy to use.

Lynn

[neil.ervin]

Last summer I purchased a new 2005 20’ Safari. Over last weekend I got baptized by the power jack. Unknowingly I switched from retract to extend too quickly and blew the 30A in-line fuse. Had I understood the problem was with the fuse, I would have simply replaced it. But, not knowing the problem was the fuse nor that it was located under my propane tanks, I took the power head off (4 screws) and operated the jack manually. My jack appears to be an H+H Super Power Jack #12250 tho mine has a light and light switch mounted on the power head cover.

First, a question about normal operation. If a person were to retract the jack post too far under normal operation, what happens? Does the limit switch simply stop the post from retracting further? Does the motor stop? Would I still be able to then extend the post via power switch after retracting too far? After extending the post back into the normal range, would the ability to retract automatically resume? Or must I re-synchronize the power head every time the limit switches engage?

After operating my jack manually, I started checking around. I found that there are two major removable parts, the power head and the Super Jack cover (mine containing a light). Due to the very short wires in the power head it is a bit difficult (understatement) to withdraw and replace the power head. With the power head in place and looking towards the front of the trailer, the fiber gear is on the right. There is a small white plastic gear in the center that has a shaft thru it that engages the Super Jack post. When replacing the power head I understood it was important to line up the center gear (pot/reed gear?) so it would fit properly into the post, but I did not realize that it also must be fully ‘settled’ into place so it could also engage a large (but thin) plastic gear to the left (the drive gear assembly?). But after fiddling with the power head and center gear for 10-15 minutes I finally got it to fit together properly.

But my second question: To synchronize the motor with the jack, (1) the post is to be first fully retracted manually and then manually extended one full turn, and then (2) the motor is to be run in the retract mode until it stops. I assume this is done with the power head off the post. True/false? How long will the motor run till it stops? Seconds? Minutes?

Also, in putting the power head back in place the light and thin light switch wires located in the power head cover shorted out twice, blowing the fuse twice. $%$%#%#*()&^)_&^)_
I covered the wire cuts with black electrical tape but I’ve a mind to just cut those wires out. With a flashlight, that light would not be needed for unhitching at night.

Thanks,

[MAINT69]

Originally Posted by JohnGalt48

Anyone recognize the jack I've got here in the pic above? I sure don't see anything that would limit it's travel so as not to strip the fiber gear.
Do I have an "unsynchronizable" jack?
Guy

First quote: Yep, it looks like a Barker and the limits are under the cap. Use a screw driver to pry off the cap. The limits (2 pair) are operated by a paddle off the spur gear. The fibre gear can strip causing a grinding noise and not operating the limits.

Second quote: No! You must synchronize! follow the directions or go to: H&H Super Power Jack Model # 12250 and down load the info. Hope this helps, better late than never, Uh?

[Action]

Thanks for the reply MAINT69. However this thread is about 8 years old. Hopefully the people ini the original thread have resolved the issue one way or an other.




>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[danlehosky]

John Galt, They should have made those gears out of Rearden Metal. Maybe Dagny Taggart should be made head of production.

Dan

[casa3805]

Originally Posted by Action

Thanks for the reply MAINT69. However this thread is about 8 years old. Hopefully the people ini the original thread have resolved the issue one way or an other.




>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

Too funny..I rarely look at dates. Guess maybe I should. But still timely for me since I have recently started heating funny noses out of mine..

[Aage]

Originally Posted by thenewkid64

The gear is likely engineered to be a failure component. It is cheaper to replace than a burnt up motor because the gearing jammed, Etc.

(In full knowledge I am replying to data from 8 years ago)

THIS is the reason they are made from fibre. So, keep a spare or two around, because when you need it, the little crank that came with the jack (to operate it manually) is rarely around too

ps: Who is John Galt anyways!?

[danlehosky]

Aage, I did now. Funny how these literary references find their way to a Forum dedicated to AS travel trailers. I'm having fun.....

Dan