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Old 03-08-2009, 09:19 AM   #1
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1989 34' Limited
Mont St-Hilaire , Quebec
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Tremco-Vulkem question anyone?

First post here! We (my dad actually, but since he's not computer literate, i will be his speaker before i most probably buy it from him when he'll be trought with it ) bought yesterday an 1989 classic limited 34' that needs some little TLC. While i was scrolling trought this amazing forum, i see that poeple do have lot's of questions and sometime do get some wrongful informations about sealants and weaterproofing.

Since i am the Tremco sealants factory representative in the province of Québec, i have a somewhat good level of knowledge in sealants in general. Please feel free to ask any questions about sealants in general urethane, silicones,hybrid,thermo-plastics,etc... (not only Tremco, altought you should not go anywhere else). Since i know most of my competitors products (Sika,Dow,GE,BASF(np1),Geocell), i will be glad to help you with the do's and don'ts about sealants.

Now i'm going back to polishing forum....

PS: My answers might ''read'' funny since i'm one of those funny french-speaking person...
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:26 AM   #2
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Welcome!

Glad to have you, H-C. Welcome!

I'm already a Trempro/Vulkem fan but I do have a question about silicone- does your company (or any other) make a good solvent for old silicone removal?

This could be the holy grail of Airstreamers if there is a good solution!
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:53 AM   #3
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Thumbs up Silicone Remover

Hi Larry,

This stuff from Vintage Trailer Supply works like a charm!!

Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!

FLYNCLD
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:55 AM   #4
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1989 34' Limited
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Hi Larry, thx for the welcome! Are you sure it's silicone, because usually silicones are pretty darn easy to remove (you can peel it off in one piece)? if so, mecanicaly ( tools or you own hands) is the way to go. Just make sure that you wipe off your surface before putting a new sealant (either urethane or silicone) with a clean cloth with xylol or acetone.

Here is quick general guide:

http://www.tremcosealants.com/filesh...sealantsai.pdf
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Old 03-08-2009, 10:03 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyCampeur View Post
Are you sure it's silicone, because usually silicones are pretty darn easy to remove (you can peel it off in one piece)?
Well, maybe it is not silicone but this stuff around my windows looks like silicone but sticks! Maybe they read your prep info before they put it on.

Thanks for the information about the prep work.
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Old 03-08-2009, 10:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYNCLD View Post
Hi Larry,

This stuff from Vintage Trailer Supply works like a charm!!

Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!

FLYNCLD
Thanks for the info! I'll do some checking around as the 3oz tubes will get fairly expensive for my project. Do you know if it comes in 5 gallon cans?
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Old 03-08-2009, 10:19 AM   #7
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A little bit actually goes a long ways, I removed about 5 ft. with 1/2 tube, but you might check with Steve at VTS and see if there is a larger size.
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:06 AM   #8
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How about a product to remove Vulkem? I will be replacing my AC unit next month and the shroud is sealed to the roof with liberal amounts of Vulkem. I plan to remove most with plastic scrapers, but what would be good for the final cleanup.
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:13 AM   #9
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Hey Happy Campeur! Welcome!

I've been waiting years to ask someone this question: What is the real difference (chemically) between Vulkem 116 and Vulkem 636?

Looking forward to your reply!
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:15 AM   #10
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Haven't seen anything for Vulkem. I use a heat gun and a plastic scraper to get most of it, then finish the job with acetone.
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:37 AM   #11
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I too would like to know the difference between Vulkem 116 and Vulkem 636.
I have had several Trempco people tell me it is the same, the 636 being OEM and the 116 being retail but the MSDS I have on each are different.
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Old 03-08-2009, 12:33 PM   #12
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1. Vulkem 116 vs. Trempro 636. Since we don't have acces to this product(Trempro636=oem line) in Canada, just by the datasheet, it seems to be a very close brother of the VK116.

2. Removal of the Vulkem116 (or any other urethane ), heatgun+ plastic scrapper is the way to go. Xylol or acetone to clean your surface and you are good to go(FLYNCLD is spot on!!!). On masonery substrates, we use a far more agressive approch
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:26 PM   #13
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HappyCampeur I have a question.

What one caulk can I use in the bathroom of the trailer that will hold up to being bounced down the road and stick to ABS plastic, anodize aluminum, painted aluminum, laminate (Formica) and vinyl flooring?

And as long as I have your ear what do I use on the house between the wood windows and fiber cement siding?
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Old 03-13-2009, 10:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmklawt View Post
What one caulk can I use in the bathroom of the trailer that will hold up to being bounced down the road and stick to ABS plastic, anodize aluminum, painted aluminum, laminate (Formica) and vinyl flooring?

And as long as I have your ear what do I use on the house between the wood windows and fiber cement siding?
Good question but you won't like my answer.... There is no such thing as ''one does it all well''. Altought if you really have to carry that just one tube, i would go with with a Spectrem2. It sticks pretty good to most clean surface (cleaned acetone preped and maybe primed on certain substrate* ) and does have a certain middle of the road modulus (flexible when dry so it can hold a certain amount of movement).

For your household application, good old Vulkem116 or DymonicFC is the way to go.

* Since i deal with commercial application, we usually run serious test before approuving some application. By experience, most of the surface you submitted, adhesion should not be a concern)

-Patrick
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Old 03-13-2009, 02:28 PM   #15
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HappyCampeur, it's not that I have to carry "that one tube"
The situation is in the bath that the ABS plastic counter, shower pan and etc... sit next to laminate or painted aluminum with an anodize aluminum trim over the joint.

What is good for ABS to ABS?
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Old 03-13-2009, 05:10 PM   #16
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It is always noted on this forum that using silicone sealant is a no-no.
Most silicone sealants have acetic acid in them(probably a solvent). This will of course have adverse affects on the aluminum.
In the glazing industry there are lots of applications where glass is sealed in aluminum frames with silicone. In that instance they often use Spectrum 2 silicone which does not have acetic acid in it and is compatible with aluminum.
So it seems to me that would be the product to use if appearance is an issue.
Personally I think that a polyurethane sealant is stronger and probably more flexible.
Al
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Old 03-16-2009, 05:44 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAl View Post
It is always noted on this forum that using silicone sealant is a no-no.
Most silicone sealants have acetic acid in them(probably a solvent). This will of course have adverse affects on the aluminum.
In the glazing industry there are lots of applications where glass is sealed in aluminum frames with silicone. In that instance they often use Spectrum 2 silicone which does not have acetic acid in it and is compatible with aluminum.
So it seems to me that would be the product to use if appearance is an issue.
Personally I think that a polyurethane sealant is stronger and probably more flexible.
Al
Al, you're spot on!!!!
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Old 07-28-2009, 12:02 PM   #18
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1976 24' Argosy 24
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Found your invitation. What would you recommend to reseal the window glass on our wrap around windows on our Argosy? The original gasket where the glass meets the frame is shot.
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Old 07-28-2009, 12:23 PM   #19
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Found your invitation. What would you recommend to reseal the window glass on our wrap around windows on our Argosy? The original gasket where the glass meets the frame is shot.
You can use Vulkem or Sikoflex sealer.

Vulkem is slow setting, allowing you to clean things up, slowly.

Sikoflex is fast setting. If you slip. you have but a few minutes to clean it up, maybe an hour, at best.

Andy
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