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Old 04-03-2016, 12:15 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digidad View Post
Great thread! One question I'm not finding the answer to... Butyl tape vs Vulkem. I've been using Vulkem (the VTS rebranded equivalent) on pretty much everything for my '72 restore, but I pulled off the scare light and it's using butyl tape. Why? It'd turn to dust, so I'm loath to use it again.

After prepping the surface (and removing all the silicone caulk the PO used), is there any reason I can't used Vulkem to re-attach?
I think that butyl tape (the real butyl tape, not the putty tape), makes it easier to remove and service the item. But my only use of it has been on my water heater flange, when I replaced the heater.
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Old 09-28-2016, 11:09 PM   #182
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Another way to save sealant

I use the piece I cut off the tube tip as a plug when I am done. Its made of material that doesn't allow the caulk to cure and it is the exact right taper to fit in the hole. I secure with whatever tape is at hand.
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Old 10-13-2016, 04:32 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
3M 5200 quick cure a great bonding & sealant. Used it on the replacement skylight, strong bond but stays pliable.

Regular 5200 for an even stronger bond. I have used it on both the boat & AS, 48hrs to tack, 5-7 days to cure. I can see it working great for panel replacement sealing.

Bob
Old thread but hoping it still lives. I just got through using 3m 5200 quick cure to mount my solar panels with those big wide flanged ABS mounts to the flat roof of my canned ham 2024 t3 .032 aluminum

.... I prepped with acetone but that's about it.

Now I'm wondering if I made a mistake. I read something that 3m recommends a special primer... of course now I read it.

Are my panels going to fly off?

waaaaaa!!!!!

“If choosing 3M adhesive/sealants, understand that the repair may not last
as long as you would like. 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4000UV has
the best anchorage to clean aluminum, without the use of a primer. If you
prefer to use polyurethane adhesive/sealants like 5200, Fast Cure 5200 and
Fast Cure 4200, you will need to use two part epoxy primer called EC-1945.
This primer may be difficult to get because it is an industrial product and
is not readily available in most Marine supply stores.”
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:30 PM   #184
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Pm Lewster he is a SME (resident expert) on that.
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Old 01-06-2017, 01:45 PM   #185
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Just placed an order with VTS for a variety of items but saw that Capt Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure was $19.99 for an 8oz bottle on Amazon so ordered it there instead.

After a rainy new year's trip we were able to trace a couple of leaky spots so hoping the captain works well.
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:44 PM   #186
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massive rain storm headed to Cali ... and I got leaks

hey all, can anyone suggest an RV place than can pressure test my AS for leaks ? I went to great lengths to seal up rear end but still seeing a damp patch on the floor plus... cant find leak on one side that's causing a drip over kitchen and bedroom windows ..
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Old 01-06-2017, 11:59 PM   #187
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leak test ... I'm in Nor Cal btw ...

forgot to say, I'm in Nor Cal , San Jose Bay area ..
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Old 01-14-2017, 04:48 PM   #188
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May I ask about the windows on our 2005 Safari 28' which has black window frames. If there is a leak (and we have one coming in the window over the dinette) do we remove the window and put in a new gasket or use caulk? Would be a shame to apply white caulk against these frames. Any suggestions appreciated!!
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Old 01-14-2017, 05:38 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirley C View Post
May I ask about the windows on our 2005 Safari 28' which has black window frames. If there is a leak (and we have one coming in the window over the dinette) do we remove the window and put in a new gasket or use caulk? Would be a shame to apply white caulk against these frames. Any suggestions appreciated!!
Why white??? SikaFlex 221 comes in its of colors......especially the gray that is a perfect match to Airstream's aluminum..........and it's not simply a 'caulk' but rather a single component polyurethane adhesive sealant.
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Old 02-28-2017, 01:12 AM   #190
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Sealing over sealant experiment

I had a burst of energy and took care of several small jobs around the house and trailers. I wound up with leftovers of three different types of sealants. So I did an experiment. I applied a patch of each to a tile, and let them dry for a month. Then I applied a blob of each to each patch, and waited another month. Then I tried to pull them apart. Some stuck, some did not.

The sealants I used were:

1) Lexel. Clear.
2) Silicone. White GE Silicone II
3) Polyurethane. Black Loctite PL S30

The results:
1) Lexel as base layer: Lexel sticks, the others do not (The Lexel product claims to stick to itself, so consider claim verified)
2) Silicone as base layer: Silicone sticks, the others do not (this surprised me; conventional wisdom says nothing sticks to silicone)
3) Poly as the base layer: silicone and poly stick, Lexel does not.

I suppose results might change if the base layers had been left out in the weather for five or ten years......
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Old 03-31-2017, 02:19 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickclifford View Post
forgot to say, I'm in Nor Cal , San Jose Bay area ..
Avalon RV in Benicia. Bayarea Airstream in Fairfield just got one but they may be busy with warranty work.
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Old 06-09-2017, 09:28 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joey_58 View Post
This might be a stupid question. Why is the sika flex white recommended for the roof rather than the gray? I feel like the gray would look better.


Late models have white roofs.
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Old 06-29-2017, 10:12 PM   #193
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Alpha Systems 1021 for sealing solar panel mounts

Would Alpha Systems 1021 be a good product (vs Sikaflex 221) for covering screws/solar panel mounts, whether VHB is used or not? It is now on Amazon in a 2 pack for ~ $20. ? Ease of application. It is listed as a Self-Leveling sealant.
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Old 06-30-2017, 06:48 AM   #194
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Sealants help in tackling energy loss. Direct caulks and sealants are high performance, low odour. Today when energy consumption is at its peak, I often contemplate on options of alternative propulsion for vehicles when it comes to energy. Something renewable! Canada a large consumer of energy consumes 2.3 percent of the global total.
But a growing number of cities are now relying on renewable energy. An article says job opportunities in renewable energy sector continues to grow (http://www.cestarcollege.com/blog/re...ewable-energy/).
Applying sealant is easy. Apply car wax or paint sealant(thin layer) then buff the haze away with microfiber.
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Old 06-30-2017, 02:29 PM   #195
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This post is kind of directed to Lewster since he has a lot of experience with caulks. Do you use Sikaflex 221 on everything on the sides, like above windows and doors and awning rails and the sides of window frames and door frames? Do you use painters tape to keep it neat and the bead narrow and straight? Just wondering how well it is smoothed with a finger. I want to keep a narrow bead and my experience using my finger with other caulks is that it spreads out into a wide mess. Can a solvent such as mineral spirits be used to wipe the fresh caulk to smooth out and force into the seams and keep it neat?

What about the riveted seams? Do you use the Sikaflex 221 there also or the acryl-R that Airstream uses at the factory with the special applicator that has the very small nozzle?

I am currently at the Airstream factory and had the air pressurization done and they supposedly sealed where air bubbles occurred. Well, the rain last night showed that they did not do that good a job and it was very expensive. Still have some leaks. Sometimes when you want to do things right you have to do it yourself, so I may try it myself. I will certainly inform the service supervisor that the service tech didn't get the leaks fixed first.

Thanks for any input

Terry
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Old 07-01-2017, 09:42 AM   #196
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Coolbikeman,

It is easy to insert the SikaFlex into the appropriate places. Your listed methods will work well in most cases.

Have fun!!
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Old 07-04-2017, 02:53 PM   #197
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This is a great thread for a newbie and want to bring this to the top again
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Old 07-11-2017, 10:07 AM   #198
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I've read through the threads and I'm still a little confused. What would you guys recommend for the proper sealant for the outside of these windows on the current models? Just looking to add some additional sealant in this area.
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Old 07-12-2017, 07:13 AM   #199
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I'm planning to reseal our 1992, 29' Classic. I'm planning to use SikaFlex on all the big seams/joints such as around windows and above door and Acryl-R on all the small seams.

What's the best guess on how much SikaFlex and Acryl-R I need for this job?
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Old 07-12-2017, 05:22 PM   #200
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This is a great list. Does it also apply to the late model motorhomes? We have a 2005 Landyacht and I'm noticing some cracks in the seals around gas tank filler and water inlet, etc.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pX91dtz7pu0ZhE7R2
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