Best way to install Fantastic Fan

[dcole]

Howdy, I'm a newby here. Acquired my 1964 22' Safari that needs lots of work in June 2011 and have been working on it a little and doing research since then. I am not planning on removing the interior skin. I'm currently in the middle of a fantastic fan installation. I have found good discussion here. I have a few detail questions that don't seem to be answered previously:

1) I'm thinking of abandoning (filling with Tempro)the old rivet holes in the roof and using the predrilled holes in the fantastic fan while adding a few more as needed. Does anyone see any issues with this?
Many of the old holes are now oval because it is hard to drill out the old buck rivets directly in the center, even using a center punch to start. Maybe it would have been cleaner if I had drilled them out with 3/16 rather than 5/32?

2) I noticed the original vent wasn't riveted through the channel that frames the opening, just the exterior skin. It seems like attaching to the channel as well would stiffen things up. Any reason not to?

3)Power for the fan. First of all, the new fan eliminates the old junction box. Any recomendations for a clean installation of a new junction box? Secondly, I don't want to accidently supply 19v AC, only 12v DC, so I am thinking of pulling power off the nearby light. Of course, the fan wire won't reach the light. I suppose I could place a spliced wire so that the connection can be accessed in the fan housing. How have others dealt with this one?

I'm impressed with the breadth of this forum.
Thanks,
Dharma

[Boondocker]

I suspect that the Fantastic fan is larger than the existing hole if you are removing the original vents. If so, you will be likely be cutting out the roof section were the old rivet or screw holes were. Attaching to the skin is sufficient, no need for a frame. Since the Fantastic Fan is 12V the worrying about alternating current is a non issue. Finally, splicing the wire that is too short is fine.

[68 TWind]

Dcole,

I won't comment on the electrical but can give you a few tips on the install.
I installed a Fantastic Fan in my Trade Wind this summer, and I love it.

I found the easiest way to square up the hole for the new fan was with an aluminum cutting wheel in my 4 in grinder. I tried shears and a nibbler but the angle grinder was must easier and faster. Mark your cut lines using the foam gastket( dont use it under the flange) as a template. The cutting the inside was much tougher. You are working overhead and it is messy. I went the with recommendation of Frank and Colin from the VAP and did not use the foam gasket. After using the fan as a template to drill new holes I laid a thick bead of vulkem and installed the fan. I did not use the supplies screws. I used stainless steel screws with washers. The washers increase the surface area holding down the fan and that helps prevent the flange from cracking. After installing all the screws I put a dab of vulkem over each screw head and have had no leaks. On the inside, take your time with the hole. The inside trim will slide right up into place once you have it cut.
If you have not already bought the fan I would suggest getting it from VTS. Steven has fans with grey covers that closely match the older vents and he supplies a curved trim for the inside that matches the curve of the Airstream ceiling.

[dcole]

Thanks Guys,
I got the fan from VTS and was able to fit in the hole with some minor filing. The hole was pretty close on my '64. Bruce & Rachel, is there a reason you choose screws rather than rivets?
The old fan had two 110 type wires routed to it. From the wiring diagram in the manual it appears that one was for 12v DC and the other for 19v AC. I wanted to avoid hooking up a 12v fixture to 110 type wire to avert any future disasters. Now I will have these abandoned wires hanging out of the opening. I think I will cap them and try to shove them just out of sight. I don't want to have to uninstall the fantastic fan if I ever need access to those wires.