Creeping Crack Cure for Window Protector?

[SteveSueMac]

When we set up this weekend, I noticed a long crack in the window protector. I don't see a stone hit so I'm not sure how it would have happened.

It's a long thin crack. In the picture it's to the right of my finger. Any insight on whether that creeping crack cure stuff would work here or would it just wedge its way in and split it worse?

I guess the next question is whether this can be repaired or must be replaced. 😕

[Wingeezer]

I'm not sure that Capt. Tolly's would stop the crack from proceeding - I suspect it doesn't have a lot of tensile strength and is a sealant more than a strong adhesive

Usually if you want to stop a crack from proceeding, you need to get to the extreme end of the crack - might have to use a magnifying glass to ensure you get to the end - and at that point, drill a small hole (maybe 1/8"?) to relieve stress and stop the crack from going further.


When we bought our AS - used, it had a crack maybe three inches long progressing in the shower wall. I "stop-drilled" it and also then sealed up the hole I drilled as well as the crack with a clear flexible sealant. After 8 years use, it has progressed no further.

I think that should do the trick, but of course the repair will be visible. Just a matter whether you can live with that or not!

I couldn't quite make out the crack on the picture you attached


Brian.

[Morgan guy]

I do not believe that Capt Tolley's would give you much of a lasting repair. You might try a vinyl glue or one of the newer glue products such Goop or System 6000. I don't remember where I bought them but believe it was one of the big box stores. They would make it last longer but I think you are faced with a replacement of the window protector.
I bought a partial sheet of lexan and used the old protector as a pattern to cut out the new piece. I did get new splice from the big box store rather than reusing the old spline.

[NavyCorpsman]

I have used a nail to fix cracked plastic. Put a small finishing nail in a pair of vice grip pliers. heat it with a candle or torch and with the tip of the nail push it through the end of the crack. Not a permanent fix, but will slow it down. I made a replacement protector for mine out of .063 ga aluminum.

[SteveSueMac]

Good suggestions.

Here's a pic from the inside. I guess it must have taken a rock. Did its job. I'm going to have to replace this....

[LY007]

A hole will mitigate the fissure of Griffith issue in glass, sometimes.

[Al and Missy]

I'm presuming this is Lexan or other acrylic, but if it is glass, a carbide drill bit could drill a small hole at the end of the crack. Then Mix some good clear, non-yellowing epoxy and fill the crack. It will help adhere the sides but will also index match and make the crack less visible.

If it is Lexan, drill a hole then wick some acrylic cement along the crack with a small applicator. It will probably remain visible.

Or just replace it, as you suggested.

Al

[dwightdi]

Lexan is GE's tradename for polycarbonate. Rohnman Haas trade name for acrylic is Plexiglass. Acrylic requires the use of acrylic adhesive. Polycarbonate requires polycarbonate adhesive. The factory protectors are acrylic. It can be cracked. Lexan after market or home made protectors are much more impact resistant and are not likely to crack. Lexan is very susceptible to stress cracking from chemical exposure.

[TomKirk]

Take it to an automotive glass shop. Not all, but in some cases, there's a fix for creeping window cracks.

Tom

[Wayne&Sam]

First to the drill stop. Then weld the crack with acetone.

[CRH]

Put a sticker on it and roll on.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by dwightdi

Lexan is GE's tradename for polycarbonate. Rohnman Haas trade name for acrylic is Plexiglass. Acrylic requires the use of acrylic adhesive. Polycarbonate requires polycarbonate adhesive. The factory protectors are acrylic. It can be cracked. Lexan after market or home made protectors are much more impact resistant and are not likely to crack. Lexan is very susceptible to stress cracking from chemical exposure.

Thanks! I was confused about that. Nice to know there are adhesives for both.

Al

[Silver.Sanctuary]

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

First to the drill stop. Then weld the crack with acetone.

Sam, we use Polycarbonates at work (Lexan is a brand name for one). Acetone, or any similar hydrocarbon will crack and craze polycarbonate.
If you want to clean it, use alcohol.

[dwightdi]

Use methylene Chloride or ethylene Dichloride based adhesive for Polycarbonate. Ethyl acetate or acetone is used as the base solvent in acrylic adhesives.