Upgrading Batteries

[Silver Goose]

[QUOTE="Road Geezer"]...While our rig came with LED ceiling lights, I replaced them with 10w halogens because we simply found the LEDs too harsh--blue white--for our eyes.../QUOTE]

If you ever want to try LEDs again in the future, look for those that are labeled "warm white". I replaced a number of the halogens in mine with them and have been very happy. I agree, the standard LEDs produce a harsh light that borders on blue. In time, the price should come down and hopefully the warm white lamps will become more commonplace.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by CrawfordGene

I understand if you want to put series 29 in the battery box you will have to raise the cover. Basically, you shim it with some pieces of steel and paint them. I didn't think we needed more than an upgrade to series 27, so I didn't go that far.

The fit is so tight, you either need batteries with handles or use a one of those thingies that fits over the terminals and creates a handle. I expect getting them in is a lot easier than taking them out.

Gene

No modification necessary on the Classics. It's not too hard getting them out, you just need to be very careful that the positive post is away from the tab that the lock engages to. It is long enough to contact the positive post and give it ground while pulling the batt out. Makes nice sparks! Just need to make sure you pull straight out and not wiggle the batt side to side. I think installing the battery positive end first and keeping neg disconnected till the last minute will take care of that.

For me the extra 60AH is worth the hassle twice a year.

[RLS]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

No modification necessary on the Classics. It's not too hard getting them out, you just need to be very careful that the positive post is away from the tab that the lock engages to. It is long enough to contact the positive post and give it ground while pulling the batt out. Makes nice sparks! Just need to make sure you pull straight out and not wiggle the batt side to side. I think installing the battery positive end first and keeping neg disconnected till the last minute will take care of that.

For me the extra 60AH is worth the hassle twice a year.

?? Ours is a Classic, and there was no way the size 29 battery was going in without cutting away some of the bottom aluminum. I had to notch out about 3/8". Maybe we have smaller boxes

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by RLS

?? Ours is a Classic, and there was no way the size 29 battery was going in without cutting away some of the bottom aluminum. I had to notch out about 3/8". Maybe we have smaller boxes

Was it an Interstate battery?
Mine's a 30', but I think the front shell and boxes are the same?????

[RLS]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Was it an Interstate battery?
Mine's a 30', but I think the front shell and boxes are the same?????

No, I'm using Ever Start from WalMart. I checked sizes, both say 13" long. Maybe I do have a shorter box? I know when sliding it in, I have to give it an extra push even with it notched out to get it in. Oh well,

I do want to stress to anyone putting in the 29's, be sure you have put in some kind of strap that you can use to pull the battery out with before trying in the battery. They are a tight fit! Not just to pull with, but also to lift with to get up and over the bottom frame.

[Kamiak]

I prefer to insert the negative terminal into the battery compartment first, following the rule that the negative is last on, first off in order to minimize sparks. The reason I prefer inserting the negative first is that I’m uncomfortable with getting my wrench and the positive terminal too close to the coach body. As an added precaution, I use a little Harbor Freight rubber-coated ratchet to tighten the lugs. The substitution of 29’s for 27’s is a great suggestion that I’m going to keep in the back of my mind if my camping habits change. Currently, we’re are not long-term dry campers, so the added amp/hrs from the 29’s wouldn’t be a great benefit, vis-à-vis the added dimensions, weight, and risk of shorting during installation/removal. Incidentally, last I checked, Interstate batteries are manufactured by Johnson Controls, same people that make Costco batteries, and just about everyone else. The dimensions, including weight, of the Costco and Interstate RV group 27 batteries are identical; consequently, rightly or wrongly, I’ve inferred that they are identical in all material respects, except price. I’ve been using Costco “marine-RV” “starting/deep cycle” batteries successfully for years. The group 27 Costco batteries are their “fitment code 14”.

[Silver Goose]

Originally Posted by Kamiak

I prefer to insert the negative terminal into the battery compartment first, following the rule that the negative is last on, first off in order to minimize sparks. The reason I prefer inserting the negative first is that I’m uncomfortable with getting my wrench and the positive terminal too close to the coach body...

The negative - last on, first off rule is a practice originating from servicing a battery in a car. If the wrench were to slip and cross between the (-) post and ground, nothing would happen. The (+) cable can then be removed without the exposure for arcing unless one was unlucky enough to somehow get the wrench between both battery posts. That being said, we need to remember that in most cases we are working with a pair of batteries in parallel. Hopefully we remembered to switch off the converter to start with... The next thing to remember is that after removing the (-) cable, the (+) cable is still hot to ground even when removed from the battery as it is still connected to the other battery.

[richinny]

good point about the second battery and converter keeping the post terminal of the first battery HOT.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Turn off isolation switch, open battery doors, carefully pull both batteries out far enough to remove one terminal on each, insulate both cable ends, and remove second cable.

POI...these batteries are heavy, leaving them sitting on the open door...not good. Have had to replace support cable rivets' (used stainless)...it WILL surprise you if one snaps while removing terminals.

Bob

[Kamiak]

Silver Goose is correct, accidental connectivity between the wrench-negative terminal and the coach is a nonevent…and prior to using a rubber coated ratchet, my little Crescent wrench often made contact with the coach while connecting the negative terminal. That’s why I insert it first, since that work is performed next to the coach. When installing/removing the batteries, I extract all four cables, and allow them to dangle in a manner where they will neither come in contact with each other, nor with the coach (especially the positive). I always turn off the isolator switch, but that only impacts downstream from the switch. As soon as battery #1 is connected, there’s a circuit, and the positive cable on battery #2 is hot, vulnerable to accidental contact with the either the coach or the corresponding negative cable. I tend to install/remove the batteries one at a time, but I do like Bob’s suggestion to slide each battery out just enough to disconnect the outer terminal on both batteries before proceeding. And if that outer terminal is negative, there’s no concern about incidental contact between the negative terminal-wrench-coach. No more circuit, and that allows removal of both the positive terminals without fear. Good idea! Why didn’t I think of that? I’m going to re-think my technique, but I’ll have to be careful lest I insert one battery positive-first, and the other negative-first. I’ve always used model airplane paint to apply a large plus sign on the positive end of the battery, visible from the outside…maybe that will help me avoid those sparks!

[Road Geezer]

Re "Warm Temp" LEDs:

I did try three replacement, lower color temp LEDs sold by Airstream. They have a definite green tint. I think the whole LED technology thing is evolving very quickly and it's best to wait until the LED manufacturers get a reasonably close approximation to incandescent color temp.

The other, more serious problem with the AS replacements is that they are extremely cheaply made. The pins are very fragile and easily break off. They are no where near the ruggedness of those supplied with late model trailers.

So, on balance, I'm sticking with halogens until LEDs become more attractive, probably a year or so.

[Gene]

There are cheap LED's that are junk and more expensive ones that work well. It appears that unfortunately, as with too many things, Airstream has chosen the cheap route.

We bought our warm white LED's from Super Bright ( LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS
LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS ). The color rendition is fine and the lights have worked very well. We bought them to reduce battery drain and because the OEM halogens were far too bright giving a harsh feeling to our trailer.

People do have different opinions on how bright lighting has to be. Sometimes it has to do with developing cataracts, sometimes with personal taste. Between the general ceiling lights and the various task lights (reading lamps in corners, lights over kitchen counter and dinette, for ex.), there is plenty of light with the LED's.

Gene

[ROBERT CROSS]

Also went with the superbright LED replacements, (G4B-WWHP10-D), for the puck lights, not near as harsh as the halogen, A+ quality.

Bob