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Old 11-17-2011, 06:05 AM   #29
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Turn off isolation switch, open battery doors, carefully pull both batteries out far enough to remove one terminal on each, insulate both cable ends, and remove second cable.

POI...these batteries are heavy, leaving them sitting on the open door...not good. Have had to replace support cable rivets' (used stainless)...it WILL surprise you if one snaps while removing terminals.

Bob
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:29 AM   #30
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2000 25' Excella
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Silver Goose is correct, accidental connectivity between the wrench-negative terminal and the coach is a noneventÖand prior to using a rubber coated ratchet, my little Crescent wrench often made contact with the coach while connecting the negative terminal. Thatís why I insert it first, since that work is performed next to the coach. When installing/removing the batteries, I extract all four cables, and allow them to dangle in a manner where they will neither come in contact with each other, nor with the coach (especially the positive). I always turn off the isolator switch, but that only impacts downstream from the switch. As soon as battery #1 is connected, thereís a circuit, and the positive cable on battery #2 is hot, vulnerable to accidental contact with the either the coach or the corresponding negative cable. I tend to install/remove the batteries one at a time, but I do like Bobís suggestion to slide each battery out just enough to disconnect the outer terminal on both batteries before proceeding. And if that outer terminal is negative, thereís no concern about incidental contact between the negative terminal-wrench-coach. No more circuit, and that allows removal of both the positive terminals without fear. Good idea! Why didnít I think of that? Iím going to re-think my technique, but Iíll have to be careful lest I insert one battery positive-first, and the other negative-first. Iíve always used model airplane paint to apply a large plus sign on the positive end of the battery, visible from the outsideÖmaybe that will help me avoid those sparks!
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:52 AM   #31
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2011 27' FB Flying Cloud
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Re "Warm Temp" LEDs:

I did try three replacement, lower color temp LEDs sold by Airstream. They have a definite green tint. I think the whole LED technology thing is evolving very quickly and it's best to wait until the LED manufacturers get a reasonably close approximation to incandescent color temp.

The other, more serious problem with the AS replacements is that they are extremely cheaply made. The pins are very fragile and easily break off. They are no where near the ruggedness of those supplied with late model trailers.

So, on balance, I'm sticking with halogens until LEDs become more attractive, probably a year or so.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:29 AM   #32
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Grand Junction , Colorado
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There are cheap LED's that are junk and more expensive ones that work well. It appears that unfortunately, as with too many things, Airstream has chosen the cheap route.

We bought our warm white LED's from Super Bright ( LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS
LED Lights, Bulbs & Accessories - SUPER BRIGHT LEDS ). The color rendition is fine and the lights have worked very well. We bought them to reduce battery drain and because the OEM halogens were far too bright giving a harsh feeling to our trailer.

People do have different opinions on how bright lighting has to be. Sometimes it has to do with developing cataracts, sometimes with personal taste. Between the general ceiling lights and the various task lights (reading lamps in corners, lights over kitchen counter and dinette, for ex.), there is plenty of light with the LED's.

Gene
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:48 AM   #33
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
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Also went with the superbright LED replacements, (G4B-WWHP10-D), for the puck lights, not near as harsh as the halogen, A+ quality.

Bob
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Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
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