No power to water pump!!!

[pinktrailer]

Help!! I'm supposed to be leaving for a trip the day after tomorrow, and the power doesn't work to the water pump in my 1967 overlander. We knew the pump didn't work for our trip in April, but foolishly, I thought it was the pump and just replaced it this morning to find out it wasn't the pump! Power also doesn't work to the front fan, and the exterior side front running lights.

I checked the two fuses at the battery and the two 30 amp fuses on the front of the univolt, and they all look good.

Any suggestions?

[Chuck]

how did you check the fuses? "looks" can be deceiving...

[overlander64]

Greetings pinktrailer!

Originally Posted by pinktrailer

Help!! I'm supposed to be leaving for a trip the day after tomorrow, and the power doesn't work to the water pump in my 1967 overlander. We knew the pump didn't work for our trip in April, but foolishly, I thought it was the pump and just replaced it this morning to find out it wasn't the pump! Power also doesn't work to the front fan, and the exterior side front running lights.

I checked the two fuses at the battery and the two 30 amp fuses on the front of the univolt, and they all look good.

Any suggestions?

This may be too obvious, but have you checked the water pump switch in the galley? On my '64 Overlander, this switch provides power to both the pump and fan motor -- it looks like a normal light switch but operates on the 12-volt system.

Kevin

[pinktrailer]

Yes, thanks Kevin, I did use the switch. (I, too, was hoping it was something incredibly obvious that I forgot!)

Chuck.....I was hoping you'd be on the forum, since you helped me so quickly the last time I needed help. I tested the fuses by taking them out and looking at them, which, sounds like it wasn't enough. I'll go out now and just replace them all, and see what happens.

[Diesel1]

The 12v circuit breakers right next to the 30a fuses can go bad, I had to replace all three on my 67 Tradewind. Adios ,John

[Chuck]

yeah, you really need a meter to test them. they can be bad, and look good. next would be to check to see if there's actually power at the fuse contacts...
I don't know what a univolt from a '67 looks like...but there are no circuit breakers on mine. and it has 4 12v circuits. (?).

If you're going to the vac rally...we're supposed to all have full hookups. and certainly, that crew will have it fixed in a jiffy...if its fixable.

[Lothlorian]

I had the same problem so I undid all the wiring and stripped the wire and used new wire connectors and it fired right up. I also took the wire off the fuse panel and restripped it and changed out a good fuse with another good fuse. It was a wire connection problem. It works fine now.

Lothlorian

[pinktrailer]

Well......Since discovering this problem, I've been debating about taking my little trailer to the VAC, as I may as well really "Camp Out", when I leave there to go to Recompense with no hookups.......I never thought about the fact that with all the trailer "whizzes" at the rally, someone would be able to get it going!

I replaced all the fuses. Still nothing. My uni-volt was new about four or five years ago. It's under the bathroom sink, and not to the front of the battery as it shows in my manual. The two, 30amp fuses are right on the front of it. There are two, very old breakers in the rear compartment, one is power for the univolt, the other is for air, which I don't have.

[Diesel1]

Originally Posted by pinktrailer

Well......Since discovering this problem, I've been debating about taking my little trailer to the VAC, as I may as well really "Camp Out", when I leave there to go to Recompense with no hookups.......I never thought about the fact that with all the trailer "whizzes" at the rally, someone would be able to get it going!

I replaced all the fuses. Still nothing. My uni-volt was new about four or five years ago. It's under the bathroom sink, and not to the front of the battery as it shows in my manual. The two, 30amp fuses are right on the front of it. There are two, very old breakers in the rear compartment, one is power for the univolt, the other is for air, which I don't have.

The 12v circuit breakers I am refering to do not look like 120v ac breakers. On my 67 they are a few inches away from the 30a fuses. They are little rectangular boxes about 1 1/2 x 1/2 x1/2 inches with two threaded posts that the wires will be hooked too with little nuts. Adios, John

[Jack46]

Hope you all don't mind my horning in on this thread, but I have a question regarding the water pumps. Our 2006 International is relatively new to us. We generaly will use shore hook up, but when do use the internal water pump, we are a bit taken back by how much noise it makes. Is that normal or should I be visiting my dealer before the warranty runs out next winter.

[pinktrailer]

Originally Posted by Diesel1

The 12v circuit breakers I am refering to do not look like 120v ac breakers. On my 67 they are a few inches away from the 30a fuses. They are little rectangular boxes about 1 1/2 x 1/2 x1/2 inches with two threaded posts that the wires will be hooked too with little nuts. Adios, John

John, is this the original equipment in your trailer? I don't have anything like that. I just decided to call my electrician, and he's coming tomorrow. Hopefully, we can figure it out. Thanks for the input!

[overlander64]

Greetings Jack46!

Originally Posted by Jack46

Hope you all don't mind my horning in on this thread, but I have a question regarding the water pumps. Our 2006 International is relatively new to us. We generaly will use shore hook up, but when do use the internal water pump, we are a bit taken back by how much noise it makes. Is that normal or should I be visiting my dealer before the warranty runs out next winter.

RV/Marine demand water pumps are far from silent, but the level of noise shouldn't be exceptionally disturbing. There are a few things that could cause higher than necessary noise levels:

• Missing or incorrectly installed rubber isolators -- usually found between water pump and floor (rubber cushions on the "feet" of the pump).
• Pump installed without flexible coupling to absorb vibrations without transmitting them to the coach's plumbing.
• Lack of an "accumulator" tank. This is a feature that can be added that stores a measured amount of water under pressure which prevents the pump from running as frequently -- this based on the "pressure tanks" utilized with home water well systems.

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin

[Diesel1]

Originally Posted by pinktrailer

John, is this the original equipment in your trailer? I don't have anything like that. I just decided to call my electrician, and he's coming tomorrow. Hopefully, we can figure it out. Thanks for the input!

Yes the circuit breakers I'm refering too are original equipment. Adios, John

[pinktrailer]

My problem, luckily, was VERY simple! The case that holds the in-line fuse to the water pump was bad. I replaced that fuse way back when, but never thought about replacing the case. The great thing about having an electrician come was that he was into "old stuff" and fixed my VERY OLD radio and cassette player, so now I have my battery-run tunes again.