Is AS installing multi stage chargers in newer trailers?

[DTOURS]

glcmranger

No sir I have the 50 amp service, (2 A/C).

I will give BestConverter a visit.

My plan is to go with a different bat system eventually but wanted to find out if I needed to up grade my OE charger/converter.

Thanks

Still seems odd there are two completely opinions of the charger/converter discussion.
🤤

[Al and Missy]

The type of service you have doesn't matter to the converter. It is connected to one side of the 50A service resulting in 120V to it just like the 30A service.

Al

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by DTOURS

glcmranger

No sir I have the 50 amp service, (2 A/C).

I will give BestConverter a visit.

My plan is to go with a different bat system eventually but wanted to find out if I needed to up grade my OE charger/converter.

Thanks

Still seems odd there are two completely opinions of the charger/converter discussion.
��

I recently replaced the stock single stage Paralex 5355B 50Amp converter and installed the Boondocker BD1260 60A converter, from Bestconverter, using their pictures they have on line. Took me about 1.5 hours, and I ended up re-using the OEM Paralex 5455B power supply chassis to work with my Boondocker with slight modifications. I did this so I would not have to come up with a different mounting system for the new converter and could use existing door and chassis. It fits right where the old one is located.
If your kind of handy, it is not that difficult to do this. I just disconnected the batteries first, then I unscrewed the door panel, and removed the existing converter and disconnected the wires, after taking pictures of the connections.. I then just slid it out, took it to my work bench, removed the cooling fan, and drilled out the spot solder welds in the cover plate. Then I removed the "converter circuit board" from the chassis and drilled 4 mounting holes to mount the new Boondocker unit inside. (Boondocker is much smaller and is self contained unit) I also used a portable saber saw to enlarge the existing fan opening a little more; this was pretty easy to cut; not sure it was needed since there is no top now, and the Boondocker likely gets plenty of air circulation. The Boondocker is smaller, so it fits nicely inside the existing chassis. I then slid the new unit back inside the AS location under the circuit breaker panel, connected the wires, attached the mounting screws and re-attached the door panel. I then reconnected the batteries, plugged into shore power, and used a multi-meter to check the voltages. It plays just like the manual said it would. Best upgrade I have done so far.

[DTOURS]

Sounds sweet gypsydad.

[DTOURS]

Al & Missy

I didn't know that. That makes perfect sense.

Does the PD4655 fit in the same space as the OE unit?

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by DTOURS

Al & Missy

I didn't know that. That makes perfect sense.

Does the PD4655 fit in the same space as the OE unit?

That I can't tell you. My trailer is older and does not have the power center. As posted before, Randy at Best Converter is the best source of information I am aware of.

Al

[DTOURS]

Al

Ok, I will give him a call. Thanks

[Al and Missy]

The problem we have is that the ideal charger does not make a good power supply and the ideal power supply does not make a good charger, so compromises are in order to do both functions. Ideally the bulk charge phase would be done at a constant current tailored to the battery capacity (which is difficult to do with other loads in parallel with the batteries), the absorption phase charging would be done at a constant voltage until the current declines to some level (again difficult to do) and then the batteries would be floated at a few 10s of milliamps (again difficult to do) to maintain the charge without reaching TVG (Temperature and Voltage for Gassing). I wish I could figure out how to make an ideal charger work as a power supply for the trailer loads. I'd be a rich man....

Al

[glcmranger]

Absolutely. Talk to Randy from Best Converter....... He's "one of us"!

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by DTOURS

Al & Missy

I didn't know that. That makes perfect sense.

Does the PD4655 fit in the same space as the OE unit?

Talk with Randy, as suggested, but I believe your power supply/converter is under your refer like in my 28, correct? If so, the converter change process I mentioned above should be the same. I can send pictures of my de-install and install, if your interested... you have a 2017 27', right? I chose the Boondocker per Randy's recommendation, but I have read here on Forum and have been told by AS tech's that the Progressive Dynamics unit works also very well.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

The problem we have is that the ideal charger does not make a good power supply and the ideal power supply does not make a good charger, so compromises are in order to do both functions. Ideally the bulk charge phase would be done at a constant current tailored to the battery capacity (which is difficult to do with other loads in parallel with the batteries), the absorption phase charging would be done at a constant voltage until the current declines to some level (again difficult to do) and then the batteries would be floated at a few 10s of milliamps (again difficult to do) to maintain the charge without reaching TVG (Temperature and Voltage for Gassing). I wish I could figure out how to make an ideal charger work as a power supply for the trailer loads. I'd be a rich man....

Al

Hi Al,
that's confusing statement...why? The new Progressive Dynamics multi-stage and the Boondocker converters can work with or without the batteries connected...they will power your unit with 120V AC to 12VDC conversion, and when the batteries are connected, will charge and protect your batteries so they do not over charge...they have battery tender capability with smart charge technology that protects your battery and maintains proper charge, without ruining it...what is the concern? inquiring minds would like to understand....
https://www.progressivedyn.com/service/battery-management-101/

[SilverHouseDreams]

If you expect to add lithium batteries in the future, include that factor into any decision for a new converter (and mention it to Randy) as it will impact the recommendations. The new PD4655LV is likely the most adaptable without having a fully programmable charger, but still represents compromise.

[DTOURS]

My trailer is a 2017 Int Sig 27 FB. Parnell is under the cabinets next to the stove.

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by DTOURS

My trailer is a 2017 Int Sig 27 FB. Parnell is under the cabinets next to the stove.

My suggestion would be to disconnect the batteries and power, and then I would open the power panel door, remove the latching screws for the door and the screws that hold the power supply in place on the fuse panel, and slide the power supply out. See how it's connected; it should be accessible without much trouble? I believe it is the same OEM unit I had in my 28' if it's 50A 2 AC model. If you decide to proceed with installing a new unit, I suggest you first take pictures of the original wiring for reference. Let us know if you have any questions or we can help.

[DTOURS]

That's awesome.

I am out of town for 2 weeks so I will deffinetly keep intouch when I get back.
Thanks

[DTOURS]

Gypsy Dad
Well I made it back. Wewh....glad to be back in the desert.

Called everyone you all suggested with a tablet filled with questions.

Randy at BestConverter s was the most helpful in my selection. Going with the PD4755, with the Wizard and pendant (so I don't have to change my fuse block board). Also got the unit the will accept Lithium batteries at a later date.

Pretty excited to do the up grade....suppose to take 30 min. I multiplied my install x4. LOL. Figure that will account for picture taking time and running back and forth to my shop for tools. And my sweet bride reminding me of my delinquent "honey do's)

I let ya know how it goes if your interested...😎

[DTOURS]

Make that a PD4655VL

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by DTOURS

Gypsy Dad
Well I made it back. Wewh....glad to be back in the desert.

Called everyone you all suggested with a tablet filled with questions.

Randy at BestConverter s was the most helpful in my selection. Going with the PD4755, with the Wizard and pendant (so I don't have to change my fuse block board). Also got the unit the will accept Lithium batteries at a later date.

Pretty excited to do the up grade....suppose to take 30 min. I multiplied my install x4. LOL. Figure that will account for picture taking time and running back and forth to my shop for tools. And my sweet bride reminding me of my delinquent "honey do's)

I let ya know how it goes if your interested...��

Yes, please allow for the pictures....and have a beer when your finished! Sounds like a great set up with future options!

[SilverHouseDreams]

Originally Posted by DTOURS

Make that a PD4655VL

Sounds like you area on a great path, just make sure you have a piece of 14awg copper wire and a wire nut to use to make your jumper. In my unit the converter had a bonded wire with a receptacle, and since you can only have 1 wire inserted into the breaker you need to join the two wires back together. You will need to use a wire nut to join 3 wires together, the hot lead of the converter, the outlet lead and then a wire that will connect into the breaker. Whatever you do, do not insert the copper wire from an outlet circuit and the lead to the converter into the breaker side by side.

I am sure mine took less than 30 minutes, with 3 trips back and forth the length of my driveway to the garage. Good luck, just remember to double check that no power is present before starting or you may get to upgrade something else

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

First off, part of this confusion is the term "single stage charger". That term by it's self is incorrect. Any time you go searching, it's going to mess you up. Every charger made for the last 50 years or so has been at least a two stage charger by the current terminology. It starts out in a current limited mode and then constant voltage charges. None of them supply infinite current at a fixed voltage.

A three stage charger drops back from a "charge" voltage to a "float" voltage at some point. The standard chargers that AS has been using for several years did this. The gotcha with this process is *when* the drop back occurs. There generally is a time and a current element in that process. The stock chargers took quite a while to drop back and the current that would kick them out of the float mode was pretty low.

So, yes, if you go back and read the data, the chargers have been three stage for quite a while. They have not been single stage ever.

Why do we get wrapped up with all this "single stage" stuff? People seem to love buying new converter chargers. They come up with all sorts of nonsense to justify buying them. They also love to blame the electronics for problems from defective batteries. I suspect that some of this is simply confusion. That's not to say there aren't some very good units on the market. There are also some very good and logical reasons to swap them out. The post above is one example of that. If you get one, add a battery t'emperature monitor to it. More than anything else, that will help out your batteries.

Bob

Right on...I like my stock one, no problems, batteries take a small amount of water every summer.....and are 5 years old..?.