Electrical Setup for Trailwind questions

[Benjo]

Doing a little research here. I am restoring and updating a 49 Trailwind and i am figuring out what kind of electrical setup i will need. Obviously, the old wiring will need to be replaced. I would like to have the ability to plug in the following appliances: (not all at the same time) an electric stove top, a small fridge, heater, a computer, and a cell phone. My goal is to have a very basic electric setup and so my question is what kind of battery and componentry do i need to make all this work. Can someone shed some light on this topic? I don't want to have a bunch of unnecessary clutter and nonsense in the coach.
Looking forward to the dialogue.

[azflycaster]

It sounds like you want to run these appliances with power from a battery system only. What about propane and / or shore power? Electric stove tops and electric heaters draw well over a thousand watts each. Running them off the battery by means of a inverter would take more batteries then you could carry.

[Benjo]

shore power for sure. i am trying to set it up without propane. so the combo of battery and shore power. i am researching how the two would work together and how they relate to the tow vehicle battery. any thoughts are much appreciated.

[3Ms75Argosy]

Benjo - vist BestConverter - Converters, Inverters, Electrical Supplies, Electronics

Randy is a forums member. This charger converter will take your shore power (from a 120v plug in the trailer) and provide a hot 12v lead which you take to your fuseblock. From the fuseblock, you power your 12v items.

From shore power, you need a distribution fuse panel (which I need to find too, anyone have tips on sizing?) which you run your 120v plugs too.

Don't ask me about grounding.. I'm still trying to figure that out.

hope this helps!
Marc

[HowieE]

What I would do first is make up a diagram of the electrical lay out of the trailer. Actually this will be 2 diagrams, one for 110 volt items and one for the 12 volt items. Sketch in the location of each of the 110 volt item and it's load rating (wattage). This will allow you to sketch in the wiring as it works back to the 110 volt panel. You can group general 110 receptacles together. Plan on GFI receptacles for the bath room and close to the kitchen sink. If you use an electric cook top and hot water heater they will each require a separate circuit. Also figure on a circuit for the converter to 12 volts.

Once you have designed the 110 circuity that will dictate what size panel you need and can get at any electrical supply house.

Now do the same thing for the 12 volt lighting. You can get a 12 panel at most RV shops.

I really question why you are not considering propane a it would greatly reduce your 110 load, the stove and hot water heater , and greatly increase the places you could camp.

[azflycaster]

Sounds like the trailer will only be used with shore power. That is not something I would do since we enjoy to dry camp and boondock very much. If you go the shore power only route, why bother with a 12 volt system. The only need you might have for 12 volts would be to power the trailer brakes in case of a break away situation. That could be handled with a small battery and a switch.

[Benjo]

this is good info. please keep throwing possible scenarios. there is no shower or bath in the coach so we are clear on that one. again, i am going for a very simple (yet safe) approach to this configuration. thanks all for the collaboration.