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Old 05-17-2016, 09:32 AM   #1
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Batteries boiled dry.... WHY?

This is a bit strange (but I have a simple mind) Why would both batteries go dry during a 10 day trip when always on shore power? We have not dry camped yet.

Bad converter/charger?
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:52 AM   #2
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Much info here on converter overcharging.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:56 AM   #3
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I guess it could be the inexpensive "non-smart" (stupid?!) charger that AS install in our expensive trailers - if they still do so, I'm not sure.

Newer intelligent chargers back off o the voltage once the battery is charged - the older chargers just keep on applying a higher voltage to the batteries as long as you are on shore power.

Even so, I would have thought it would have taken more than ten days on shore power to cause your batteries to go dry.

Our trailer still has not had its charger upgraded.

So until I get around to doing that, I disconnect the batteries any time we are going to be on shore power for more than a couple of days.

To make this easy, I removed the original +'ve battery clamps and replaced them with ones incorporating quick disconnect knobs. These are readily available at places like Harbor Freight.

Brian.
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Old 05-17-2016, 09:58 AM   #4
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Folks with the original converter (single-stage battery charger) should make sure they select the "Store" position when connected to shore power for extended periods. This disconnects the battery from the converter and avoids overcharging.

Some folks upgrade their converters to include a three-stage battery charger. Others like me that have solar don't bother upgrading their converters since my solar charger includes a three-stage battery charger. However even with my configuration it's important to make sure the Use/Store switch is in the Store position when connected to shore power to avoid overcharging.
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:00 AM   #5
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Lots of threads on here about that. I don't know what converter you have, but the original A/S stock converter was a very simple device and has been reported to boil batteries dry when left connected for long periods.

Were they full before you left? How do you store it? If you have the simple 1 stage converter it should not be left for long periods connected to shore power. Different years of Airstreams have been wired differently. My 2001 Safari would continue to charge batteries from shore power when placed in the STORE mode. I understand that the newer ones don't do that but I don't know that for a fact.

Several things could play into that - how long have you had the trailer? How long did it sit on the lot before you bought it? Was it connected to shore power during that period? If not was charge maintained on the batteries? What is the manufacturer's date code on the batteries?

Al
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:02 AM   #6
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:15 AM   #7
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Had the same problem and after 4 months fighting this problem, guess what, its was a Bad converter/charger.

Took AS two time in the shop and finally on the last day at the shop it happen, they were very surprise and told me it had a gremlin in it and was causing a very over charge to the batteries.

Got a new converter/charger and two new batteries, things due go bad.
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:15 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
Lots of threads on here about that. I don't know what converter you have, but the original A/S stock converter was a very simple device and has been reported to boil batteries dry when left connected for long periods.

Were they full before you left? How do you store it? If you have the simple 1 stage converter it should not be left for long periods connected to shore power. Different years of Airstreams have been wired differently. My 2001 Safari would continue to charge batteries from shore power when placed in the STORE mode. I understand that the newer ones don't do that but I don't know that for a fact.

Several things could play into that - how long have you had the trailer? How long did it sit on the lot before you bought it? Was it connected to shore power during that period? If not was charge maintained on the batteries? What is the manufacturer's date code on the batteries?

Al
1. 2016 International
2. Original A/S stock converter
3. Connected to shore power for 10 days during Florida rally
4. Two Interstate Deep Cycle Group 24
5. Sat on dealer lot for a couple months without power - battery dates 10/15

Have made multiple trips under the same scenario and had no problems.
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:16 AM   #9
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If the batteries had a dead cell then they would never reach/hold a proper charge and the converter would continue to try, boiling them dry. Sounds like they weren't in good shape when you started out.

There are a number of threads here on various battery experiences. Go to the Google search and type Airforums Battery or Batteries. That should keep you busy for a while. Good luck.
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:17 AM   #10
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Overcharging is a likely possibility. However, only 10 days seems very quick. Was the water level completely full when you started your trip?

Managing the batteries was something that took me a long time to fully understand. This is what I learned (the hard way): When NOT connected to shore power, it is easy to tell if you are in Use or Store mode by the red light. However, when connected to shore power the red light is always on. You cannot tell what mode the switch is in.

With shore power and Use mode, the batteries are being charged. With shore power and Store mode, they are not. So how do you tell? For me I shut off shore power and set the mode I want, Use or Store. I then turn shore power back on. It stays in that mode until you change it with the switch. When the batteries get near to 12.0V, I go back to Use mode for a day or so.

If you don't want to go through all this, upgrade to a three stage converter and stay plugged in without overcharging.

Ron
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:30 AM   #11
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To make a long story short I also have a 2016 Intl but a tab shorter twenty three. Bought used so took dealers word that batteries were fine. After first trip they were dropping 50% over nite. Dealer checked them out said I needed an upgrade to my charger. I installed a PD4655.

Batteries still would not hold a charge. Dealer says they are ok. Had to argue with them and they finally replaced the batteries. Guess what all is well.

My batteries were most likely not charged properly by the previous owner. It is very inexpensive and a easy replacement of the charger.

Dave
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:47 AM   #12
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I installed a better solar charger and just unplugged the Charger/Converter from shore power. That way the batteries can only get charged through the solar. All of my 12V stuff is low power. I replaced all fluorescent bulbs with led strips and most of the other bulbs are led as well. As long as I'm parked in such a way that there is sunlight on the panels it should charge the system. AC, micro, fridge as well as the hot water tank can still be run from shore power when plugged in. When no shore power is present these won't run anyway with the exception of the fridge and hot water tank which will run on propane.
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:53 AM   #13
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When I have my trailer in long term storage, I use a Noma Block heater timer set for one hour /day. That way the batteries don't boil over, or leak away the charge.
I will be picking up my 'brand new' 30 FC. shortly, after winter storage at Canam.
I'll bet that it hasn't been 'trickle charged' over the Winter; so I have some trepidation about what I shall see here.
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Old 05-17-2016, 12:22 PM   #14
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So basicaly I need to upgrade to 4 stage converter? Now do I go with a 45 or 60 amp Inteli-Power Converter/Charger?

What are the advantages/disadvantages between a 45 and 60 amp unit?
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Old 05-17-2016, 01:37 PM   #15
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I never had some of these issues I see lately with my 64 to 79s! I'm sad A/S is NOT the benchmark for quality it once was BUT what is these days?
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Old 05-17-2016, 02:32 PM   #16
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I have no idea if it is the same or similar as your problem, but luckily I got to checking the water levels and noticed them regularly "burning off" water..."over-charging"...I got to reading on here and decided to replace with a multi-stage charger..I think it is 4 stage..forget now...after now over a year, my water level is entirely unchanged hooked up to 15amp shore power year round battery in "use" position.

Just a sad crappy piece of electronics to use in a wonderful trailer.

Good luck. I was able to do the replacement no problem and I am not all that handy
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beachbouy View Post
1. 2016 International
2. Original A/S stock converter
3. Connected to shore power for 10 days during Florida rally
4. Two Interstate Deep Cycle Group 24
5. Sat on dealer lot for a couple months without power - battery dates 10/15

Have made multiple trips under the same scenario and had no problems.
1, 2 - I think A/S has put a good converter in the Pendleton, but not sure about anything else.

3. I have had my 30 with an old one-stage converter on shore power for two weeks with no issues. I never had a problem with my 25 but I changed the converter anyway.

4. Group 24s are about 67 Ah each, I think.

5. One instance of deep discharge would probably not kill batteries, but might reduce capacity some. I have had automobile batteries in cars that I didn't drive a lot go flat. After a few times, the battery wouldn't recover and had to be replaced, but not after one deep discharge.

To your question about what size charger, I had one Group 24 in my 25 and I put in a PD 9260. That may have been overkill, but in two years I didn't have any battery trouble. I have since read that you should not charge wet cell batteries at a current level over 25% of their Ah capacity which would be around 32 amps for two group 24s, but the converter is providing more than charge current so a higher current may be OK, and it's not clear that all of that 60A would be poked into the battery. Many on here have had good luck talking to Randy at Best Converter to get recommendations for replacement converters.

Al
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
Lots of threads on here about that. I don't know what converter you have, but the original A/S stock converter was a very simple device and has been reported to boil batteries dry when left connected for long periods.

Were they full before you left? How do you store it? If you have the simple 1 stage converter it should not be left for long periods connected to shore power. Different years of Airstreams have been wired differently. My 2001 Safari would continue to charge batteries from shore power when placed in the STORE mode. I understand that the newer ones don't do that but I don't know that for a fact.

Several things could play into that - how long have you had the trailer? How long did it sit on the lot before you bought it? Was it connected to shore power during that period? If not was charge maintained on the batteries? What is the manufacturer's date code on the batteries?


Al

Your comment about use/store switchmakes me think!

I'll have to double check mine - but if this failing old memory serves, I tried what you suggest before deciding to put disconnects on my batteries!

I never could quite figure out what that store/use switch is wired to do.

I think I measured the voltage at the batteries with the store switch both in the on and the off position and there was no change in voltage, indicating to that the batteries were still being charged in either position.

But now I am thinking that it is possible I didn't wait long enough when I switched to "store" and perhaps the measured voltage would have dropped after an hour or so.

I'll be checking that again - maybe I don't need to mess with my battery disconnect knobs after all!!

Presume there is no other reason to leave the use/store position in "Use" as long as you have shore power connected?

Brian.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beachbouy View Post
This is a bit strange (but I have a simple mind) Why would both batteries go dry during a 10 day trip when always on shore power? We have not dry camped yet.

Bad converter/charger?
Yes IMO, the OEM charger is bad IMO. It may not be the best design, and should eventually be replaced, but only a bad charger would cause this kind of damage IMO. [Edit -- unless the batteries were bad before the trip -- see below.]

Is there any chance that you have a short-circuit some place, or defective circuit board, etc., which was gobbling up the 12 volts being supplied, which the charger then mistakenly tried to replace 24/7?

No expert here . . .

"Sparky"

PS -- Did you ever confirm that the batteries were OK before you trip, as suggested by others here? Water levels and specific gravity for each cell with a hydrometer? Perhaps the batteries were low on water to start with, and/or damaged by the dealer by bad storage/charging?
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
Your comment about use/store switchmakes me think!

I'll have to double check mine - but if this failing old memory serves, I tried what you suggest before deciding to put disconnects on my batteries!

I never could quite figure out what that store/use switch is wired to do.

I think I measured the voltage at the batteries with the store switch both in the on and the off position and there was no change in voltage, indicating to that the batteries were still being charged in either position.

But now I am thinking that it is possible I didn't wait long enough when I switched to "store" and perhaps the measured voltage would have dropped after an hour or so.

I'll be checking that again - maybe I don't need to mess with my battery disconnect knobs after all!!

Presume there is no other reason to leave the use/store position in "Use" as long as you have shore power connected?

Brian.
In my 25, the USE/STORE switch was more like a main disconnect. It disconnected the batteries and the converter from the power distribution fuse panel. Looking at the schematic diagram in the manual it is called the "12V Kill Switch". If I wanted to work on something in the 12V circuits I could throw the switch and the whole 12 system (except for the propane detector) would be dead. But the btteries were still connected to the converter. I thought maybe it was a modification, but I checked the electrical diagram for my trailer and it agreed with the wiring. My 2002 Classic 30 Slideout is wired the same.

Al
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