Honda 2000i vs. Honda 2000i Companion

[robert@honda]

Okay to connect 2 x Companion units with parallel cables.

If you only need 1 unit, in most cases it is a better deal to get the base EU2000i first...remember, they both put out the exact same power, so why is the base model a better unit to start with?

• It is usually a bit less cost than the Companion (~$75-$125 less)
• The base model offers 12V DC battery charging output (requires a $10 cable). Nice if you ever have a flat car battery and need to charge it. The Companion does NOT have the 12V output.

There are plenty of inexpensive adapters that will let you plug your 30A RV power cord into the EU2000i base model's standard duplex receptacle.

[A W Warn]

Robert,
Is it OK to bond the neutral and ground on a Honda generator, using a 120v 15 amp male drop cord end with a wire running between ground and neutral? I've read on this and other forums (RVing and boating) that people are using this bonding method, but I have not heard any commentary from Honda if it is OK to do it. The reason I am asking: when I connect my 2000i to my Airstream the GFCI's will not work and I get a reversed polarity reading on my plug in circuit tester. (I understand why, so no explanation needed)

I'm sure many other Honda generator users have this same question.
Thanks for your response!

ps:
I always learn something when you comment here and on other forums I frequent. I appreciate your contributions!

add edit:
If there is an answer to this somewhere in any document that Honda has published, will you please direct us to it?

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Bob662

I've always believed the better approach is to run them until all fuel is exhausted. I bought, at Autozone, a simple bulb-operated siphon. I use it to remove all the fuel I can from the tank, then crank the unit and allow it to run until it quits. I do this for chain saws, line trimmers, generators, etc. and never have any problems with starting.

The Honda's do have a provision for draining the carburetor bowl, but this doesn't address fuel in the tank that can become stale.

There is a white connector to the lower right inside the side access panel which will prevent the engine from shutting of when you turn the thumb wheel to "off". If you disconnect it and shut the thumb wheel off, the fuel shutoff is activated but the ground is not provided to shut off the ignition. This will run the bowl dry without having to siphon the gas out of the tank. Then simply drain the few remaining drops from the bowl after the gennie runs out of fuel and you're set till next trip. I only siphon when exchanging old fuel in the spring and fall to remove potentially stale fuel. It would be really easy to install a switch to the case to do the same thing without having to remove the panel and disconnect the connector.

[robert@honda]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

Robert,
Is it OK to bond the neutral and ground on a Honda generator, using a 120v 15 amp male drop cord end with a wire running between ground and neutral?

That's a good question for an electrician; I am not one, so really can't say what is OK or not in a particular configuration.

Honda's official policy on supporting electrical set-ups, grounding connections, neutral bonding, etc. is to seek the advice of a licensed electrician with knowledge and understanding of local/state codes and regulations.

Basically, because there are SO many possible set-ups, rules, and regulations that vary all over the USA, Honda's electrical advice/support stops at the receptacle on the generator. There's no way Honda can know every detail, rule and requirement that might affect your specific set-up. Advising a customer on how to something outside the generator should be wired opens a huge liability risk as well.

Instead, Honda says to have a licensed electrician get involved if you have any concerns or questions.

[romeb]

I think the answer to everyone's questions about how grounding is with Honda part number 08E90-HPK2001 which does connect the red and black but also a separate ground. It's made by Reliance but sold by Honda.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by robert@honda

That's a good question for an electrician; I am not one, so really can't say what is OK or not in a particular configuration.

Honda's official policy on supporting electrical set-ups, grounding connections, neutral bonding, etc. is to seek the advice of a licensed electrician with knowledge and understanding of local/state codes and regulations.

Basically, because there are SO many possible set-ups, rules, and regulations that vary all over the USA, Honda's electrical advice/support stops at the receptacle on the generator. There's no way Honda can know every detail, rule and requirement that might affect your specific set-up. Advising a customer on how to something outside the generator should be wired opens a huge liability risk as well.

Instead, Honda says to have a licensed electrician get involved if you have any concerns or questions.

Robert,
Thank your for responding!
A couple questions regarding the Reliance adapters/kits shown on page 5-11, for the EU 2000s:
http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/...generators.pdf

(1) I've tried to find more information on Honda's website regarding the different types of kits that are available to link/combine the EU2000 generators. (because in one of the prior post someone stated that the kit solved the bonding issue) Is there a wiring diagram of the kits that you could provide (or a link to it)?
(2) Can you tell us if either of the two Reliance "RV" ready kits for the EU2000s bond the ground and neutral.

[Getaways]

Go to Mayberry's call or online. They have the combo set with parallel cables included for $100 less than Amazon.

http://www.mayberrys.com/Honda/generators/Inverter.aspx

And with them, if you call, you get pretty good service.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by Getaways

Go to Mayberry's call or online. They have the combo set with parallel cables included for $100 less than Amazon.

http://www.mayberrys.com/Honda/generators/Inverter.aspx

And with them, if you call, you get pretty good service.

Honda offers three different parallel kits for a EU2000, two that specifically reference "RV" in Honda's literature. What I want to know is how they function differently, why is more than one kind needed, which is best for my need?

The 08E92-HPK2031 includes an "RV adapter".
The 08E90-HPK2001 is "RV Ready"

Either of these might solve the issue with bonding in RV's, or maybe neither one does. I cannot find, in any of Honda's literature, the difference in how they function.

[robert@honda]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/...generators.pdf

(1) I've tried to find more information on Honda's website regarding the different types of kits that are available to link/combine the EU2000 generators. (because in one of the prior post someone stated that the kit solved the bonding issue) Is there a wiring diagram of the kits that you could provide (or a link to it)?
(2) Can you tell us if either of the two Reliance "RV" ready kits for the EU2000s bond the ground and neutral.

Before Honda introduced the Companion model, they offered two versions of the external enclosure 30A parallel kits. One had a standard RV-style female receptacle (a.k.a. "RV-ready") while the other had a NEMA 30A twist-lock style. Both versions had a 30A breaker and watt-meter:





As of today, the NEMA version has been discontinued, and only the RV-ready kit is still sold by Honda. It is part number 08E90-HPK2001, list price $199. While I don't have a wiring diagram for the kit, I can tell you for sure it does not change the floating neutral configuration on the EU2. When the enclosure kit is mounted and connected to a pair of EU2 units, the system/circuit remains a floating neutral (a.k.a. "NOT neutral bonded")

[A W Warn]

Robert,
The information you give is appreciated.
Thank you!

[romeb]

The picture I posted was from the shelf at the Honda dealer where I bought my generators. I've had my parallel kit for a few years so I can't be positive which Reliance kit I have but it was $199. It connects with push in red and black connectors and green connectors that you tighten down with a screw. It also has the correct plug for my 2007 Airstream. And it as an output gauge and a 30A circuit breaker. I remember balking at the price(the two wire kit is so much cheaper) but it works flawlessly with everything in the camper going at once even. I did have some issues with the dangling wires getting caught on stuff when I moved or stored the generators but I figured out how to hang them from the top of the kit. I'm going to be using them in a few days so i will post a picture of the set up.

[gaylejoe]

Since have upgraded to a 15,000 for my 25' FB will the 2 Yamaha 2000's run it? I have a brand new 2400isHC with 12 hours on it that I will sell when we get home. I really loved this gen and it was flawless when running the 13,500. It is a tri-fuel that I ran on propane. The replacement will also be tri-fuel.

[GammaDog]

If you mean your new air conditioner is a 15,000 BTU model then you should be able to run it on two 2000 watt generators in parallel. Ours is precisely that combo.

[greghoro]

Rather than get an adapter for the Companion model, consider purchasing a marine 30A extension cable with twist lock connectors on each end. Note, this won't work for 50A trailers.

You will then be able to connect it directly between your trailer and Companion without need for an adapter.

Plus, it can be used as an extension for your regular power cord when the need arises.

Marinco among others, makes these. While a bit pricey compared to a normal RV 30A extension cable, you can make the connection between your regular power cord and the extension cord waterproof and secure with a connecting sleeve and ring.


Greg