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Old 08-04-2016, 06:07 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by TBRich View Post
Be sure to drain the gas tanks AND carburetors if you plan to let the generators sit idle for more than a month without using them.
I've always believed the better approach is to run them until all fuel is exhausted. I bought, at Autozone, a simple bulb-operated siphon. I use it to remove all the fuel I can from the tank, then crank the unit and allow it to run until it quits. I do this for chain saws, line trimmers, generators, etc. and never have any problems with starting.

The Honda's do have a provision for draining the carburetor bowl, but this doesn't address fuel in the tank that can become stale.
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:27 AM   #16
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I've always believed the better approach is to run them until all fuel is exhausted. I bought, at Autozone, a simple bulb-operated siphon. I use it to remove all the fuel I can from the tank, then crank the unit and allow it to run until it quits. I do this for chain saws, line trimmers, generators, etc. and never have any problems with starting.



The Honda's do have a provision for draining the carburetor bowl, but this doesn't address fuel in the tank that can become stale.

I do this then open the carb drain screw. Quite a bit of fuel still drains out.


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Old 08-04-2016, 10:49 PM   #17
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I actually do that as well. I siphon all I can out of the tank, then run a few minutes until it runs out of fuel … then open the cabureter drain to make sure it's empty.
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:18 AM   #18
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Attachment 268280Attachment 268280I'm not too clever with photos but I think I just attached a picture of my parallel kit.
Does this setup bond the neutral and ground so that the GFCI's work?
With the normal setup my plug in tester gives erroneous readings, like reversed neutral and positive.
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Old 08-06-2016, 10:48 AM   #19
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Does this setup bond the neutral and ground so that the GFCI's work?
With the normal setup my plug in tester gives erroneous readings, like reversed neutral and positive.

A W Warn-

This adapter works to solve open ground problem on my setup.

http://www.progressiveindustries.net...tor-plug/c1mwy
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Old 08-06-2016, 11:06 AM   #20
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Honda Generators

Question about ground with the Reliance parallel kid from Honda...yes it has a separate ground connection so all the GFCIs work normally. That pic is of it in my garage but I will be using it next week so maybe I can post a pic of it set up as well as finding the right Honda Part number for it.

I think the advice on fuel is unless you are using it daily that you should use a fuel stablizer like Stabil. I use the same fuel in my Honda snowblower as my generators and it's just to tricky to know when they are in use or put away so I just put stabilizer in all my fuel all the time. The increased use of ethanol is the problem now. Ethanol can be corrosive to some fuel system parts A good idea is to ALWAYS keep the vent on your gas can closed since ethanol also attracts moisture. Honda sells the "no spill" gas cans which do not have vents and, wow, you can refill your generator even after dark without pouring gas all over the place. If you know you are putting it away for an extended period of time you can also buy ethanol free gasoline to run through when you run it dry so there is no ethanol residue anywhere in your fuel system. It is readily available for two stroke by the quart premixed with oil and stabilizer but the four cycle ethanol free fuel I've seen does not have stabilizer so you might want to add a little.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:22 AM   #21
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Okay to connect 2 x Companion units with parallel cables.

If you only need 1 unit, in most cases it is a better deal to get the base EU2000i first...remember, they both put out the exact same power, so why is the base model a better unit to start with?

It is usually a bit less cost than the Companion (~$75-$125 less)
The base model offers 12V DC battery charging output (requires a $10 cable). Nice if you ever have a flat car battery and need to charge it. The Companion does NOT have the 12V output.

There are plenty of inexpensive adapters that will let you plug your 30A RV power cord into the EU2000i base model's standard duplex receptacle.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:50 AM   #22
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Robert,
Is it OK to bond the neutral and ground on a Honda generator, using a 120v 15 amp male drop cord end with a wire running between ground and neutral? I've read on this and other forums (RVing and boating) that people are using this bonding method, but I have not heard any commentary from Honda if it is OK to do it. The reason I am asking: when I connect my 2000i to my Airstream the GFCI's will not work and I get a reversed polarity reading on my plug in circuit tester. (I understand why, so no explanation needed)

I'm sure many other Honda generator users have this same question.
Thanks for your response!

ps:
I always learn something when you comment here and on other forums I frequent. I appreciate your contributions!

add edit:
If there is an answer to this somewhere in any document that Honda has published, will you please direct us to it?
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:56 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Bob662 View Post
I've always believed the better approach is to run them until all fuel is exhausted. I bought, at Autozone, a simple bulb-operated siphon. I use it to remove all the fuel I can from the tank, then crank the unit and allow it to run until it quits. I do this for chain saws, line trimmers, generators, etc. and never have any problems with starting.

The Honda's do have a provision for draining the carburetor bowl, but this doesn't address fuel in the tank that can become stale.
There is a white connector to the lower right inside the side access panel which will prevent the engine from shutting of when you turn the thumb wheel to "off". If you disconnect it and shut the thumb wheel off, the fuel shutoff is activated but the ground is not provided to shut off the ignition. This will run the bowl dry without having to siphon the gas out of the tank. Then simply drain the few remaining drops from the bowl after the gennie runs out of fuel and you're set till next trip. I only siphon when exchanging old fuel in the spring and fall to remove potentially stale fuel. It would be really easy to install a switch to the case to do the same thing without having to remove the panel and disconnect the connector.
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Old 08-09-2016, 05:57 AM   #24
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Robert,
Is it OK to bond the neutral and ground on a Honda generator, using a 120v 15 amp male drop cord end with a wire running between ground and neutral?
That's a good question for an electrician; I am not one, so really can't say what is OK or not in a particular configuration.

Honda's official policy on supporting electrical set-ups, grounding connections, neutral bonding, etc. is to seek the advice of a licensed electrician with knowledge and understanding of local/state codes and regulations.

Basically, because there are SO many possible set-ups, rules, and regulations that vary all over the USA, Honda's electrical advice/support stops at the receptacle on the generator. There's no way Honda can know every detail, rule and requirement that might affect your specific set-up. Advising a customer on how to something outside the generator should be wired opens a huge liability risk as well.

Instead, Honda says to have a licensed electrician get involved if you have any concerns or questions.
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:10 AM   #25
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I think the answer to everyone's questions about how grounding is with Honda part number 08E90-HPK2001 which does connect the red and black but also a separate ground. It's made by Reliance but sold by Honda.
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:57 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by robert@honda View Post
That's a good question for an electrician; I am not one, so really can't say what is OK or not in a particular configuration.

Honda's official policy on supporting electrical set-ups, grounding connections, neutral bonding, etc. is to seek the advice of a licensed electrician with knowledge and understanding of local/state codes and regulations.

Basically, because there are SO many possible set-ups, rules, and regulations that vary all over the USA, Honda's electrical advice/support stops at the receptacle on the generator. There's no way Honda can know every detail, rule and requirement that might affect your specific set-up. Advising a customer on how to something outside the generator should be wired opens a huge liability risk as well.

Instead, Honda says to have a licensed electrician get involved if you have any concerns or questions.
Robert,
Thank your for responding!
A couple questions regarding the Reliance adapters/kits shown on page 5-11, for the EU 2000s:
http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/...generators.pdf

(1) I've tried to find more information on Honda's website regarding the different types of kits that are available to link/combine the EU2000 generators. (because in one of the prior post someone stated that the kit solved the bonding issue) Is there a wiring diagram of the kits that you could provide (or a link to it)?
(2) Can you tell us if either of the two Reliance "RV" ready kits for the EU2000s bond the ground and neutral.
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:22 AM   #27
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Go to Mayberry's call or online. They have the combo set with parallel cables included for $100 less than Amazon.

http://www.mayberrys.com/Honda/generators/Inverter.aspx

And with them, if you call, you get pretty good service.
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:12 AM   #28
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Go to Mayberry's call or online. They have the combo set with parallel cables included for $100 less than Amazon.

http://www.mayberrys.com/Honda/generators/Inverter.aspx

And with them, if you call, you get pretty good service.
Honda offers three different parallel kits for a EU2000, two that specifically reference "RV" in Honda's literature. What I want to know is how they function differently, why is more than one kind needed, which is best for my need?

The 08E92-HPK2031 includes an "RV adapter".
The 08E90-HPK2001 is "RV Ready"

Either of these might solve the issue with bonding in RV's, or maybe neither one does. I cannot find, in any of Honda's literature, the difference in how they function.
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