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05-27-2013, 06:31 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 503
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Five trips to the hardware store later
I finally got to the point where I pressurized the water system and, of course, found an issue. The shower valve assembly leaks. I tried rebuilding the stems but I still can't get it to shut off all the way. My guess is the valve seats are corroded and I can't get a proper seal.
Anyway, how does this thing come out? Right now I can't even get the chrome cover off as the hose fitting on the bottom of the valve is corroded in place. I assume I have to wrench it off to start to expose everything. I hope I don't have to take the plastic shroud off. I sure don't want to start pulling things apart without some idea of what I'm getting in to.
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05-27-2013, 07:28 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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Sorry, the only way to service it is to take the entire plastic shroud off. It is one of the dreaded jobs of Argosy work, as well as some Airstreams.
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05-27-2013, 08:20 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,991
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Have you tried re-surfacing the valve seats?
Use this tool: Top 10 Plumbing Tools: Faucet Valve Reseating Tool
Your local hardware store should carry it. I've used it successfully on old household faucets. Might be worth a try.
Chris
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05-27-2013, 10:13 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 503
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I'll try the reseating tool, definitely worth a try.
Idroba, can you provide tips on how to remove the shroud? It looks to me as though the toilet has to be removed to get the shroud out. If that's the case, a whole world of fun stuff awaits.
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05-27-2013, 10:48 PM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
Cerritos
, California
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 151
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I had a similar issue with my '58 FC. I did not have much luck with reseating tool and new gaskets and seals. Ended up replacing the entire stem. The part number is on the picture below. Found the hot and the cold stems that worked at our local True Value hardware store. And soaking the parts with WD40 makes for easier removal
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05-27-2013, 11:00 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,226
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One option is just to live with the leak. If you install a ball valve at the shower head you can turn the water off and on here, and it will always be set at the correct temperature. The valve is about $25. Bruce, with a 16 ft Banbi, posted a link to it about 2-3 weeks ago.
I got one from Amazon last summer. It works great.
Dan
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05-27-2013, 11:07 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia
, Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
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The shroud is a formed piece, held in by rivets under the belt line molding and is a diabolical thing to remove. Not sure if the toilet has to come out, but I would not be surprised. I think I would cut a square hole around the valve with a multi tool and put the new faucet on a patch big enough to cover the hole. But then there is a pipe and plumbing issue to deal with, as the copper is all sweat soldered together and the lines run in the shroud above the toilet. When I replaced the toilet with a new one, I had to cut the shroud for room for the lid to open and then cover the pipes with another smaller system that I invented. So, in actuality, I never took the valve itself out and have my original one. But if I did replace it, I would cut and patch rather than disassemble half the bathroom to get at the valve.
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05-28-2013, 03:27 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 503
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I went out today and purchased a shower head shut off valve, brought it back and installed it. Still have a leak. I think there must be a crack in the housing, evidently where the shower hose attaches.
I'm going to follow idroba's suggestion and cut out the existing valve. I'll pull the copper lines out while I'm at it and install a pex set up. This will have the advantage of getting rid of the "oversized" copper tubing I've had to modify for my sink faucet.
Someday, I'll go camping.
I'll post a follow up when I'm done.
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05-30-2013, 04:44 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 28
Fresno/Clovis
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 704
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Whoa, my shower looks identical to yours, and I was able to replace the shower valve without taking out the toilet or sink. I removed the rivets of the strip above the shower mounting shroud, then all the screws, the board came away from the wall enough to get the old valve out, put in a new one, and used braided stainless steel hose from the valve to the sink area, then connected the pex. The shroud flexed enough to not have to remove any rivets from the lower part. I also had to remove the storage door above the toilet, which is where the SS hoses went to the under sink area.
Good luck.
__________________
Roger
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05-30-2013, 10:11 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1972 Argosy 20
Snoqualmie
, Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerdodger
Whoa, my shower looks identical to yours, and I was able to replace the shower valve without taking out the toilet or sink. I removed the rivets of the strip above the shower mounting shroud, then all the screws, the board came away from the wall enough to get the old valve out, put in a new one, and used braided stainless steel hose from the valve to the sink area, then connected the pex. The shroud flexed enough to not have to remove any rivets from the lower part. I also had to remove the storage door above the toilet, which is where the SS hoses went to the under sink area.
Good luck.
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Well, at first I was po'd because I didn't think of that, then I realized that it wouldn't have worked in my case. When I finally got the valve out it was so corroded I had to get two spanners on it, etc, etc. Great idea though.
I own and have restored a couple of old (1890's) commercial buildings (and two early 1900's buildings) and the challenges of those projects are, in all honesty, quite a bit easier than rehabbing a 70's AS/Argosy. Nothing is intuitive. The first two things I learned were to throw away my level, then toss the square.
More to follow
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05-31-2013, 06:20 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DryFly
Nothing is intuitive. The first two things I learned were to throw away my level, then toss the square.
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Nothing is symmetrical either. Left side curves are different from right side curves, front curves are different from rear curves, etc, etc... Makes for interesting challenges!
Chris
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06-10-2013, 11:50 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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your valve is installed the same as mine.
I have see that tour spout is faced down. Is there a reason for ours ( or all ) not to be faced upwards where the the wand is going to be?
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06-10-2013, 11:58 AM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
1979 Argosy Minuet 7.3 Metre
Topping
, Virginia
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 118
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Earlier today I just completed the job in question. There were only 2 rivets
Holding the panel in place. The toilet did not have to be removed. I'll take a couple of pics for you this afternoon so you can see what it looks like and post this evening.
Paul
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06-10-2013, 01:36 PM
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#15
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3 Rivet Member
1979 Argosy Minuet 7.3 Metre
Topping
, Virginia
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 118
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