I only looked at the link a short time, but it looks like to me it can only be used when hooked up to shore power. If you want tankless, you might consider one that runs on propane. However, if you are hooked up to shore power frequently then it may not matter... my first thought is if you have "unlimited hot water" your grey tanks would fill quickly!
I am sure others who are more knowledgeable will respond.
Mrs. NorCal Bambi traveling in S Tardis from the Great State of Jefferson
It doesn't appear that that tankless heater is designed nor approved for RV use. I would be concerned that it couldn't handle the rigors of the road...also, you would be limited by the length of your extension cord.
We are putting in a tankless water heater specifically designed for use in boats & RVs made by Precision Temp
It runs on propane so no need for electrical hook-ups. Keep in mind though...you may have "endless hot water" with an insta-hot W/H but not necessarily endless tanks to supply & capture it.
Shari
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I haven't used one in an RV, but my apartment in Europe had one--most do there, as energy costs are much much higher. I thought it was fabulous and wondered why they weren't more popular here. It makes total sense for an RV/boat especially, where space is a dear commodity.
My question is does it use too much electricity? Would I be limited to use only when hooked up to shore power?
FC7039,
There are many problems with using the water heater listed in your post.
1: With both elements on, you draw 7000 watts, or 58 AMPS, which is more than your trailer (30 amps) or any motor home I know of (50 amps) will handle.
2: It is NOT specifically rated for RV use and will not stand up to the rigors of the road.
4: I have been using one of the RV-500's for 8 years in several RV's (latest is the 19CCD Airstream) and they are worth it! I like them so much that I sell and install them also.
I barely go thru a 30# tank of LP during the 3 months that I'm stationary in the summer with the CCD. An that's with taking 2 very long (the reason I like them so well ) showers a day.
Use any other unit that is not RV approved at your own risk!
We have a PrecisionTemp in our '65 Caravel. It was installed by the PO.
Up side. Lots of hot water. Uses very little propane. Quiet, does not sound like a storm passing through like some other water heaters.
Down side. Uses some water to get started, only a concern when boondocking. When boondocking and trying to conserve water, it shuts off every time the water is shut off, so washing dishes with hot water is a little bit of a challange. It is sometimes difficult to get the water temp adjusted for showering, using up water, also a boondocking issue.
A circuit board went bad on our trip across the US in 2003. Fortunately, we were less than 100 miles from Cincinatti, and went to PrecisionTemp for the repair. We were treated well. The repair was just under $200.00.
Several times it has failed to start. It was flashing a trouble code. I disconnected the 12v and re-connected causing the micro-processor to re-boot. Problem solved each time. I was told by PrecisionTemp that may be caused by stray electrical noise from the RV Park getting to the water heater through the 120v converter in the trailer. It hasn't happened for some time.
We enjoy our PresionTemp, but probably would install a standard water heater if it really went belly up.
Thanks all for all the input. The web site list the fuse at no more than 25-40 amps. I cannot see how it could pull 50+. It does list UL as a certifier, right on the front page. I asked them for info on the use in an RV. The whole thing is only $170 including shipping. That is cheaper than the repair of the gas Precision model. The gas model also requires venting, which requires hole cutting, which leads to leaks.
Man, why can't any of my good (read cheap) ideas ever pan out.
Thanks all for all the input. The web site list the fuse at no more than 25-40 amps. I cannot see how it could pull 50+. It does list UL as a certifier, right on the front page. I asked them for info on the use in an RV. The whole thing is only $170 including shipping. That is cheaper than the repair of the gas Precision model. The gas model also requires venting, which requires hole cutting, which leads to leaks.
Man, why can't any of my good (read cheap) ideas ever pan out.
Just a little electrical math: 7000 watts of input on 'high'. That is 7000/120 (as in volts AC) which is 58 amps according to Ohms law of electricity.
Either they are not giving you accurate info on the actual amp draw of the unit, or they are trying to use a lower breaker rating for some other reason.
In any event, it's still more draw than you can handle........sorry!
And remember...........YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR !!!!
my other trailer SOB had a tankless. The tank (yes there is still a tank) would not drain even if the inlet was disconnected. It required complete removal and dissassembly to get the water out of the tank. I didn't do this as often as I should have and sure enough, on one cold night my tank split at the seams. Not likley to happen if you're in it cause your piggies will be cold so you'll run the heater.
There is no way I would have a 120v only water heater in any RV. It's just too nice to have hot hot water any time, any place. We don't boondock a lot, but when we do, I want hot water.
Also, If you ever intend to sell your unit, I don't think a 120v only water heater will be acceptable to a buyer. If he wants to stay plugged in, he will buy a mountain cabin.
my other trailer SOB had a tankless. The tank (yes there is still a tank) would not drain even if the inlet was disconnected. It required complete removal and dissassembly to get the water out of the tank. I didn't do this as often as I should have and sure enough, on one cold night my tank split at the seams. Not likley to happen if you're in it cause your piggies will be cold so you'll run the heater.
That's NOT a tankless water heater (TANKLESS HAS NO TANK!!) It's a point-source water heater for 'instant hot water' but a true tankless water heater contains a heat source (LP or 120VAC) and heats the water as it passes thru a heat exchanger. It does NOT use any energy when there is no demand for hot water....sitting idle until the next call. It then fires up via a flow control valve/actuator and heats the water 'instantly'.......NO TANK!
Besides all of the other points already mentioned... This unit is optimized for use on 220V or 240V service, though it "will" work on lower line voltages. Look at the tech specs in the table here.
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Bob Fowler
Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.
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