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Theo · 01-15-2004, 01:01 PM

After playing in the mess for a while, I have concluded that there are a couple of problems that need addressing in the bathroom situation.

a) The shower pan (entire floor area in there) has a blocked drain, is it somehow accessable from below, or do I have to fish around in some really manky stuff to try from the top..

b) The waste tank valve leaks.. What is the best course of action. Is it something I may wish to get a professional in on, or is there something else I can do instead. I have no knowledge of these systems, do not know what I am looking at, but can usually muddle through if enough information is thrown at me. A steady leak passes the valve, with the handle in, probably 10% of volume. Pull the handle and it rushes out, as it should.. Finding this out was not nice... YUK. Fortunately the cap has a small cap in it, so I could contain the revolting sludge adequately.

Theo

smily · 01-15-2004, 01:19 PM

Where is your bath? What kind of bath?, (wetbath or seperate from the toilet seat).

You may have some foreign debris lodged in the "seat" of the drain valve and that is preventing your "gate" from seating against the gasket.

If you have rear bath, you should be able to open rear hatch and see Valve body for your drain. Try flushing ot out with high pressure water.

If that does not solve your problem, you may be faced with replacing the valve body. That requires cutting the valve body out and replacing. You can buy them at most RV stores.

Trick to cutting PVC is using good nylon string, (like building string) and wrap one wrap around the PVC pipe. Then saw back and forth until you get a groove started. Then you can really get going by rapidly pulling back and forth with string and the friction of the string will cut right through the PVC. Glue new body in and buy small piece of PVC pipe, glue new extension in and glue on new T hose connector. Repair job cost under 50 dollars.

As for shower, Hmmmm, I need to know what you bath looks like.
Smily

Theo · 01-15-2004, 01:23 PM

picture one.. taken before the backed up mess arrived. That came on the 500 mile trip home, without any help from me.

Theo · 01-15-2004, 01:24 PM

Picture 2 - not too good, but I hope it shows enough

qqq · 01-16-2004, 08:03 AM

I have the exact same "useless bathroom area"
I had sewage backing up in the shower when I tried to have my gray water go to the black water tank.

Hart

pepper48 · 01-16-2004, 10:45 AM

I have a wet bath like yours. The shower pan drain is the lowest point in the bath and you will experience back up through it. The back up may occur when traveling if the tank is very full. The drain location in mine is not accessible to use a plumbers friend. The PO evidently had problems with this drain. To gain access to the drain you need to either drop the belly wrap or cut an access hole on mine. The PO cut an access hole and covered it with a metal bowl attached with caulk and sheet metal screws. This is on my to do list to change.

I've had good luck using an expandable plug, similar to a boat drain plug, I purchased at a local RV supplier. I keep the plug in and only remove it to use the shower.

I like the wet shower because it provides more lounge space than other designs. Obviously, there are some trade offs. I also keep a bathroom mat on the shower floor, except when showering, to keep the scratching down.

Good luck with your nasty job.

Theo · 01-16-2004, 11:22 AM

Expandable plug.. That sounds like a plan. I have no desire to ever find that present in the shower pan again.. When the weather warms up, or I arrive in a warmer area, I will take the entire arrangement apart, and see about making some improvements. In 30 years, something better should have come along..

Theo

Inland RV Center, In · 01-16-2004, 11:25 AM

NEVER NEVER NEVER have gray water diverted to a black water tank.

The health hazards are monumental.

Once that has happened, "ALL" of the gray water drain lines should be thoroghly flushed with straight clorox.

To say the least, if "ALL" the traces of sewage from the black tank have not been removed from all the gray water piping systems, the bacteria will continue to grow.

Health hazard, FIRST CLASS.

Andy

Theo · 01-16-2004, 11:31 AM

Good Point Andy.. Thank you for that. I will use something a lot better than clorox..

The next question I have with the bathroom issue is:

The toilet. Is there a blow by blow account of how to do that, anywhere - I used the search and found vague instructions, but unfortunately, my brain does not do vague.. I looked around the thing, and couldn't see a logical way of removing it, so I need to address that problem next.. The fun thing is the more I look at, and deal with, the more is uncovered..

A question for those who have done this..

How long will it be until I have to do it all again?

Theo

wahoonc · 01-16-2004, 11:50 AM

Theo,
It is kind of hard to tell from your pictures, but if your toilet is similar to mine, there is a plastic cover that snaps in place with a hole in it for the flush pedal. Mine removed by pushing in on the sides, and it kind of popped out. Underneath you will find a couple of nuts that you need to remove, also disconnect the waterline from the rear too. Then the toilet should just lift off easily?

Aaron

Theo · 01-16-2004, 11:55 AM

I will go look later.. thank you.

Theo

qqq · 01-17-2004, 07:28 AM

Andy,

I thought grey or black carry their share of bacteria, in any case we will try not to drink from those tanks...I don't see the point in keeping the gray sewage clean

I wouldn't even drink from the fresh water tank

Hartmut

Inland RV Center, In · 01-17-2004, 10:13 AM

Hartmut,

Granted, both tanks are loaded with bacteria.

However, the black tank carries the kind that can and does kill.

If some of the contents from the black tank back up into the gray water drain lines (on models not equipped with a gray tank), then there are harmful bacteria that has been forced backwards through the "P" traps.

At that point, it becomes very dangerous, and requires a complete Clorox flushing.

Andy

qqq · 01-17-2004, 10:42 AM

Sorry Andy, I'm still not convinced

Hart

Inland RV Center, In · 01-17-2004, 10:46 AM

Try it.

You won't like the results, I promise.

But then, perhaps you could join the list of those that say "never again."

We do many things in our service department, but cleaning out gray water lines that have had black sewage in them, is not one of them.

Andy

lynn · 01-17-2004, 12:07 PM

Andy, did you know several of the present Airstream models have combination black and gray tanks?

Inland RV Center, In · 01-17-2004, 12:21 PM

Lynn.

We have been chatting about the older trailers that did not have a gray tank.

What has been suggested, is to cap the drain, open the dump valve, and then let the gray water go into the black water tank.

Problem is that the sewage will go into the gray water drain lines, and if it becomes full, it will back up into the tub.

Not a pleasant sight, smell, or mess to clean up. Then the real problem is to get the sewage bacteria out of the gray water drain lines and "P" traps. Not an easy task.

Andy

lynn · 01-17-2004, 12:40 PM

You are correct that is not a good idea.

RivetED · 01-17-2004, 12:40 PM

The Hep-A virus is a real problem with raw-sewerage, granted many others. People in any health-compromised condition, including 60 yrs & up are at risk of death if exposed to Hep-A. There is an article in a recent issue of Trailer-Life covering this potentially fatal maladay by regular contact with our sewer hose at camp sites. I use disposable latex gloves every time. I don't have a link but suggest duing a search in Trailer-Life for Hep-A.

qqq · 01-17-2004, 11:53 PM

If some new Airstreams have a black & grey combo tank

it's a shame & in Andy's words , a health hazard because it will overflow in the shower .
I am shocked to hear they still do that!
The chemicals never get a chance to treat the black stuff if you add soapy water, & if you are not hooked up it becomes a PITA.

Hart