Low Point drain broke off

[Jwestman]

I've got a 2012 25' FB. We pulled into a state park, filled with water and when I turned on the pump discovered a leak between the wheels from the low point drain shut off on the left side. I thought maybe it was partially open and when I tried to close it, it fell off.

I managed to get a plumber over to take a look and after trying everything we ended up putting a plain old cork into the remains of the brass fitting. Are we correct that there is no access to the inside of the tank without dropping it?

I'm not sure if it will hold if I leave the pump on and pressurize the system.
Any ideas for a temporary fix until I can get it home to my airstream dealer?

[rmkrum]

Cut the fitting off if you can and use a sharkbite cap to close it and hold pressure?

[Jwestman]

The cork idea is not going to work. As soon as the pump pressurized the system, it blew out. The fitting is off but only about an eighth of an inch of the brass nipple remains - not enough to thread anything to it.

Does anyone know if the public water supply is separate? Or will hooking up to park water also leak from that tank.

[polarlyse]

I believe that point will leak no matter the source of the water. It's part of the pressurized system and unless there is a valve installed upstream from the leak point you won't be able to isolate it. How bad is the leak. If it's a drip, live with it until you get home. If it's a flow, get some bottles and make do with bottled water for this trip then fix when you get home. Inconvenient yes but not the end of the world.

[Wingeezer]

I've never (yet) had any issues with my low point drains, but I don't believe they go into a tank - I always thought think they were drain valves installed right in the water pipes, one valve for hot, one for cold.

[HowieE]

Happened to us on the way to Alaska. Pulled into Dawson City and went to fill up at the city water point. After 2 Toonies and the tank was not full and my feet were getting wet I discovered a rock had sheared off the drain.

Braith get a cork! Lucky we carry a selection of small corks.

If you have been to Dawson City you know it is not a place to crawl under and do an under trailer repair.

Finished the 15,000 mile trip.

[Wconley]

Ours broke off three months after getting our 23D. It broke off in my hand when I turned the valve to winterize. We had to take it to Airstream as it was winter and I had no place to work on the trailer. There are several threads on Air Forums discussing fixes - sorry I have no advice for a temporary fix. I think it's crazy that Airstream installs this drain with the terminating pipe sideways which exposes the whole valve to more possible damage. I had the dealer install the valve with the pipe aligned to the rear of the trailer. I wish Airstream also mounted a guard in front of the valve similar to the fresh water tank drain valve. Good luck.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by polarlyse

I believe that point will leak no matter the source of the water. It's part of the pressurized system

Please 'splain.
The pump is sucking water from the tank and pushing it out the faucets. So how is the tank getting pressurized?
The cork might be popped out by the weight of the water in the tank, but not the pump. It's not a closed system.

Is it possible to tap threads into the old fitting, then screw in a plug? If the drain is brass, I'd only use a brass plug otherwise any metal will weld itself into the old fitting and the problem will be bigger. (Dissimilar metals). Also wrap it in teflon tape. Give the tank a good flush so you don't get metal shavings into the pump someday.

Or:
The drain is not in the tank itself (Tank drain) but in the plumbing (low point drain) then yes it could be under pressure. I still think a tap and plug is the answer.

[polarlyse]

If this is the water tank drain you are correct. If it's the low point drain it's pressurized. The tank drain is just a gravity drain. I'm still not sure since on mine both are pretty much between the wheels. So if the white tank drain valve whittle a tight fitting plug and move on.

[pcskier]

Have you looked for a 't' connection on the inside in the closet that has a the drain pipe disappearing into the floor? You could bypass the "T" until the valve is repaired, or add a valve below the T if there is room and that is the new low point drain valve?

Not looking at my trailer right now but I think a lot of that plumbing should be accessible from that interior compartment. I might be way off but maybe worth a look.

[TG Twinkie]

Another reason to eliminate low point drains. They are trouble.
Can you put a cork in it then put a hose clamp on in such a way to hold the cork in place?

[m.hony]

I had the same issue.
I happened to be at an RV repair shop and the technician was able to repair it with parts from Lowe's or Home Depot.
The belly pan cover over the tanks had to be removed and riveted back on.

[Jwestman]

Thanks for the thoughts. This is definitely a low point pressurized shut off that broke off. It is not the white plastic used to drain the tank. If that also pressurized when "city" water is connected, then I'm stuck until I can get to service. It is a steady stream when the pump is on and there is no water at the sinks. A slight drip when the pump is off. WS going to try a rubber washer with a butterfly bolt but can't find a butterfly small enough to get in there. ⅛ has a ⅜ butterfly.

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by Wconley

Ours broke off three months after getting our 23D. It broke off in my hand when I turned the valve to winterize. We had to take it to Airstream as it was winter and I had no place to work on the trailer. There are several threads on Air Forums discussing fixes - sorry I have no advice for a temporary fix. I think it's crazy that Airstream installs this drain with the terminating pipe sideways which exposes the whole valve to more possible damage. I had the dealer install the valve with the pipe aligned to the rear of the trailer. I wish Airstream also mounted a guard in front of the valve similar to the fresh water tank drain valve. Good luck.

Agreed - some sort of rock guard would make sense as teh valves are very vulnerable where they are located.

Ours are they type where you just unscrew a winged nut and te water exits through the threaded pipe.

Every time I use them I give the a good shot of WD-40 so that they won't rust up and break of next time I use them!

Actually, since I use plumbing antifreeze as well as blowing the water out with compressed air each winter, I probably don't even need to use them, but I do just rack them open fr a second to let some of the "pink stuff" run out when I winterise!

[Bigventure]

What you have to do is, 1- tin snip it open. 2- pull it down and fix it or shark bite a pex cap on it. They put a pex street 90 on the end. So you have to cut it off, then patch it back up.

The tank end where the drains are is hollow. They come off the pressure side of the system. They only pass though the tank compartment. Over the top of the tank. They are not part of the tank.

[m.hony]

I disagree with tin snips-
Drill out rivets, remove cover.
Replace cover with new rivets.

[Jwestman]

Thanks! Once I understood that I was not going into the tank itself, we ran a bolt up into the line with a lot of plumbers tape and it is holding under pressure.

Thanks!
j