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Old 03-08-2016, 02:16 PM   #21
cwf
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1999 34' Excella
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Hillsboro , Texas
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Yup.. dealer time.... go drink a bunch of their 'free coffee'... if you have kids, feed them lots of sugar as soon as you get to the waiting room....may expedite things...

On our 1999 34' the door was 'hard' to close. Obviously I can't claim a "warranty" on the manufacturer... so, once I was sure the door was snug, I adjusted the 'latch pin' on AS frame... now the door just 'clicks' closed...

Also, I have replaced the gaskets...recently.. so, it was easy to check 'seal'...

So, yeah.. dealer visit...

as for the 'Security latch slide'... dealer can resolve.. if not, open a thread...
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Old 03-08-2016, 02:47 PM   #22
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1962 16' Bambi
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i have been in the habit of holding the latch in the open position and closing the door firmly. once seated i release the latch and the door is securely shut. and i can do it one handed! no undue force put on the door frame with this technique. been doing it this way for ten+ years now. as other have suggested, lubricating the works helps.
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Old 03-08-2016, 03:06 PM   #23
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2015 28' International
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We have a 2015 International and found the same thing. But I discovered that when closing from the inside, if I pull the handle that is centered on the door, rather than pulling where it latches, it closes much easier. And from the outside, I push it in approximately the same spot as the inside handle is located. Easy fix. Hope it works.
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Old 03-08-2016, 03:46 PM   #24
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Greenwood , Mississippi
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If you ever get a chance to go to Jackson Center...
Or to Colonial...
They can adjust the door for you under warranty.
Making sure the trailer is level helps- with torpedo level in door sill/threshold.
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Old 03-08-2016, 04:34 PM   #25
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2016 22' Sport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOS View Post
I have a 2016 28W just a week old . Closing the entry door is difficult .
Have to slam it and several tries sometimes.
So what is with the door ? Is that the way they are ? Are we doing something wrong ?
Is there an adjustment or fix for it ?
Thanks, Mike
I had the same problem, had to take it back to the dealer. They made adjustments, now just a firm push. A word of caution .... check your outside skin carefully all around for any outside damage that was not there before. When in my dealers care damage was done, still 4 weeks later waiting for promised compensation(check). Good luck
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:04 PM   #26
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1970 25' Tradewind
anderson , South carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOS View Post
I have a 2016 28W just a week old . Closing the entry door is difficult .
Have to slam it and several tries sometimes.
So what is with the door ? Is that the way they are ? Are we doing something wrong ?
Is there an adjustment or fix for it ?
Thanks, Mike
Just had the same experience with my 1970 Tradewind ,hard to shut door. As
One of the other replay door need lubrication. Spray pub in all parts and coat
All contact surfaces with bearing grease. Should be no more problem. Bob Cooke
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Old 03-08-2016, 06:56 PM   #27
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I had that same problem on our mpg when we first got it. I tried using the stabilizers as levelers (NO, don't to that) and the door wouldn't close properly. Took the load off of the stabilizers and the door worked fine. Lesson learned.
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:20 PM   #28
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
Washington , Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idroba View Post
When my 2014 was brand new, it took some real effort to close the door. The rubber seals take time to compress and take a set. That said, I was still unhappy after a month or so, and my dealer was able to make an adjustment so it closes much better now. So, maybe give it some time, but then see the dealer.
Same here. tough to close but also very hard to deadbolt...close hard...firm pop with palm...deadbolt works,

Then on afternoon I noticed what I would consider a sizable gap in the bottom of the jam....daylight for sure, but I prefer the sunset thru the window. I recent had it into the dealer for replacement of the Fwd LP drains and mentioned it. Not sure what they did, but the gap is gone and the DB is smooth as silk.

Talk to your dealer

Bob
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Old 03-08-2016, 07:52 PM   #29
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Great video... thanks for sharing...
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Old 03-08-2016, 09:22 PM   #30
cwf
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1999 34' Excella
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I once had a car with similar closure issues..A friend told me.. "If you wouldn't have paid so much, the door would already be broken in!"
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:31 PM   #31
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1973 31' Sovereign
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I use silicone grease about once a month to keep my door working easily. I smear it on the edge of door gaskets and dab the latches and dead bolt, open and close a few times and wipe off excess. Makes all the difference in the world but does attract a bit of dust. I'd rather be aware of not rubbing my clothes on the edge of the door than have to slam!
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Old 03-08-2016, 11:34 PM   #32
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2013 27' FB International
San Luis Obispo , California
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Over tightening the stabilizers. Does it to me every time! It's my understanding that over tightening them causes flex in the frame, which causes flex in your shell, which causes the door to not close properly.
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:15 AM   #33
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
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I originally set the bubble on the jack parked on a dead level pad with a 6" torpedo level inside the refer but later transitioned to the front door for visibility.

After cooking the first breakfast, I reset the bubble with the level in a frying pan on the stove and called it good. I've not had any refer issues.

As for stabs, I crank them down until all the arm/plate play is gone, then an additional 1/4 turn on the speed wrench.

Bob
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