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Old 05-09-2013, 05:05 PM   #1
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2021 16' Basecamp
Greenacres , Washington
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Power Jack Problem

I have a Barker Mfg H & H Super Power Jack Model #12250 on a 2007 27' Classic Limited. The motor to raise/lower the jack is not working. There is electricity to the light on the power head and the coach batteries are fully charged. First step in troubleshooting is always check fuse, but I can't find the fuse. Anyone out there willing to help me find the fuse and, if the fuse is good, what other troubleshooting steps should I follow? If I remove the powerhead, will I have to re-synchronize? Also, where would the emergency handle to manually operate the jack typically be stored? Thanks in advance for your help.
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:33 PM   #2
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Sounds like it is not a fuse as the light works. If the motor sounds like it is working but the foot does not raise or lower it is probably the fiber gear in the power head. I had to replace mine earlier this year. Call Barker Mfg and the service tech can help. The gear is easy to replace and with shipping cost about $40.00 from Barker. You will need to re-synchronize after installing the new gear, and Barker can send you a tech sheet on the process. It is no big deal to re-synchronize.

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Old 05-09-2013, 08:48 PM   #3
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Bk Yd,
Thanks for you quick reply. Nothing happens when I push the switch, no sound at all. Seems like an electrical problem. I have removed the powerhead and am able to raise and lower the post manually.
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:10 PM   #4
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turn on the light, then push the switch. If the light goes out, there's either a grounding problem, or bad connection. If the light stays on, could be a problem with one of the limit switches or the motor, give Barker a call.

You should find the fuse somewhere on the wire leading back from the jack to the battery. It could be hidden underneath the tongue or propane cover.
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:11 PM   #5
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Use a voltmeter or test light to see if you have power coming into the switch. If you don't back up in the wiring and find the problem. If you do, see if there is power coming out of the switch when you turn it on. If not you have a bad switch, if you do the motor is the problem.
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:03 PM   #6
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I have to assume your jack did work at some point... Had the head been removed prior to the reported problem? If it had and the leadscrew had been turned before reassembly, it could be as simple as a sync problem with the limit switches. There is only one wire coming to the head to provide power and it finds ground through the frame. Since your light comes on, that should rule out a fuse. Switches can go bad. Wires can get caught up in the gears if the cover was reinstalled without looking where the wires need to be but as I recall it seems that it is the wiring to the light that is most vulnerable.

Attached are snapshots of the manual for that jack that explain how to sync the head and a wiring diagram. If you have a meter or 12v test light, you may be able to follow the diagram to figure out why voltage is not reaching the motor (assuming the motor is good and it most likely is).

The diagram doesn't show the light and its switch.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:12 PM   #7
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Pulled into a state park in Idaho today and found my Barker jack goes up fine, but not down! There is no sound when I flip the switch down. The light works fine.

I'll call Barker service in the morning. May need to see if Airstream Adventures Northwest, Boise can help, as I'm near Boise and my RV is still under warranty.

The one thing I do know how to do is change the fuse. There is a plastic "bulge" in the wire that goes to the battery that you can unscrew to open & change the fuse. In my 2007 Airstream, the propane cover pulled on this and caused the jack to stop working at times. Had to manually squeeze the fuse container together to get the jack to work. In the 2013 Airstream there is a small u-shaped hole in the propane cover for the jack cord to go through. Impressed that Airstream was aware of the problem & provided this fix.
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westernviews View Post
Pulled into a state park in Idaho today and found my Barker jack goes up fine, but not down! There is no sound when I flip the switch down. The light works fine. ...
The main switch reverses the +12v and ground lines to the motor. If it goes one way but not the other, the switch or a loose connection of one of the wires to it is suspect. There are also 2 limit switches one to stop upward and one to stop downward movement beyond the mechanical limits of the post. The switch or connection to it that sets the down limit may also be the problem.

You could unplug your shore power and disconnect your batteries to prevent any undesired sparking in case there's a loose wire in there, then remove the 4 Phillip screws on the bottom side of the jack cover and lift off the cover while paying attention to the wires that go to the light and its switch. Then you should be able to see the wires going to the 3 switches to see if you can spot a loose or disconnected wire and be able to correct the fault. When reinstalling the cover, watch that the wires to the light stay clear of the gears.

If you have a meter or a test light and know how to use it, you could troubleshoot the switches if all your connections were good, or leave that up to the repair center.
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:19 AM   #9
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Barker’s customer service is somewhat suspect. I dealt with them on my jack and to be frank the guy acted like he knew what he was doing but had no clue. He sent me a switch which did not help. I told him the motor had a flat spot, he kept telling me the motors never fail. It would also blow fuses. I did finally get him to send me a new jack under warranty, I returned the old one. He then complained about the $38.00 return shipping, I was so tired of talking to him I didn't even ask for the money. The new jack did resolve my problems and because I did the install at home I know it is done correctly and saved more than the $38 bucks by not having to tow to the dealer and back. BTW I installed a cheap eBay special on my previous trailer and never had an issue.
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:36 PM   #10
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Besides the usual electrical troubles with power supply to the motor through the switch and fuses, there is also mode of failure (on some designs) due to the stator (field) magnets comming unglued from the inside of the case. these are semi-cylindrical ceramic magnets that are mounted 180* apart on the inside surface of the cylindrical motor housing. Vibration, impact or rust can cause them to detach. They can be epoxied back in place, keeping in mind their original N/S orientation. These motors have higher torque and use less power than the old wire wound field type, but are less robust.
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Old 07-04-2013, 06:29 PM   #11
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My jack was intermittent today. Finally the connection to the lower fuse holder melted and fell. It started utilizing my AGM 265 AH batteries as a source for welding power. Luckily the LP was not on but and inch of the insulation smoked off the wire before I could knock the wire from the frame. You can be sure that I'll put a fuse on both ends of that line when I replace it tomorrow!
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:32 PM   #12
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Install "fusible link" and resettable breaker. You can get one for a marine trolling motor which is waterproof too. You can mount under chassis for access outside if needed.
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Old 07-04-2013, 11:28 PM   #13
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Install "fusible link" and resettable breaker. You can get one for a marine trolling motor which is waterproof too. You can mount under chassis for access outside if needed.
Thanks. I'll stop by West Marine tomorrow and see what I can find. - Brad
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:51 PM   #14
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Thanks. I'll stop by West Marine tomorrow and see what I can find. - Brad
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:59 AM   #15
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Sorry, I wasn't paying attention. WM breakers only went down to 40amp and that one was $60 so I purchased a watertight 30 amp glass fuse holder in the trolling motor section and #10 wire and butt connectors. I hung the fuse holder off the positive terminal of the battery (I have two 6v lifeline agm in series) and reran the circuit out to where the fuse holder used to be. . While I was in the battery compartment I took the time to clean and tighten all the connections. If my batteries were vented wet cell I might not have placed the fuse holder in the battery box but with the lifelines and the fuse holder is rubber and seals I'm not worried about it. Far less worrisome than having an unfused piece of #10 wire routed near the LP lines and a good ground! -Brad
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:27 AM   #16
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I have a H&H super power jack model #12250 that has given me many problems! I am going to replace it. Looking online at the Barker 3500, it appears to come in two diameters. Any idea of how I find out what my diameter is? 2 or 21/4? I don't see it anywhere. I have a 2008 27 FB. I am somewhat of a newbie so this might be obvious knowledge---but I'm feeling pretty dumb. I am with another airstream friend who says he can install a new one for me ---or I can go to an RV dealership here in Springfield, M0. Thanks for any help

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Old 04-28-2014, 09:41 PM   #17
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Inoperative Power Tongue Jack

I have no light nor up/down motion. Fuse is good, battery fully charged. Next would be check for shorts, but where to look first would be my question?


I have a 2012 International 27FB. Will check tomorrow for phone # for manufacturer.
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:42 AM   #18
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Call Barker

I followed Bk Yd Safari's advice and called Barker Mfg. I found their service dept. to be quite helpful. With some testing, I determined that the switch was the problem. Barker shipped a new switch and I was able to solder the new switch in place. They also sent me a switch cover at no charge. Without the cover, the switch is exposed to the elements, which probably caused the failure.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:45 AM   #19
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Smile Power jack

Quote:
Originally Posted by kds View Post
I have a H&H super power jack model #12250 that has given me many problems! I am going to replace it. Looking online at the Barker 3500, it appears to come in two diameters. Any idea of how I find out what my diameter is? 2 or 21/4? I don't see it anywhere. I have a 2008 27 FB. I am somewhat of a newbie so this might be obvious knowledge---but I'm feeling pretty dumb. I am with another airstream friend who says he can install a new one for me ---or I can go to an RV dealership here in Springfield, M0. Thanks for any help

KDS
Most newer AS use 2/14 dia jack older had bushing in a/frame to reduce to 2in. dia. Yes your friend can install your jack, support under ball end of tongue lower onto support. Three bolts threaded into a/frame jack will lift off, disconnect wire with fuse. I don't no where fuse is in newer model AS maybe have to cut wire then splice , [as last resort This is very easy job to change jack Orient jack with light and toggle swts. forward, maybe 5 min. job. Do not pay high dealer install fees for simple job.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:19 AM   #20
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My 2011 Flying Cloud FB 25 has a Barker power hitch. When you unlock the top portion of the power hitch which has the "level" on top, you are able to access a manual nut straight down into the jack. My rig had a separate jack handle in the storage compartment to fit the nut and manuall raise or lower if needed...
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