Order of demolition.

[CraigCam]

I'm planning on a complete gut job for 1970 overlander. I know I mus all furnishing and fixtures first. But do I then remove subfloor, replace it then work on interior skins, or vise versa? Also, I'm a little freaked out about severe frame frames problems. Can I get to and repair the frame from removing the subfloor. I really don't want to remove the belly pan???

[Isuzusweet]

First off, section off the trailer into say four sections (two equal at far ends and two equal ahead and behind axles); then weigh everything that comes out of those sections. This will at least give you a base line on original weight distribution on the trailer. Keep everything that comes out (even if your're going to replace it), just in case. Only discard at the very end of project.

Make sure you take pictures of every electrical connection to switches and fixtures. Any interior panels you wish to take off, mark with permanent marker with panel number and orientation to the trailer, front, back, top bottom. Mark panel number on trailer ribs

I think it would be easier to at least remove the lower interior panels to facilitate access to any fasteners or wiring running through the subfloor. Then I would remove subfloor to determine if a shell off frame restoration is needed and body pan removal. At this point if a shell off is warranted having some interior panels still in place will add rigidity to the body for lifting purposes.

Cheers
Tony

PS What you're about to tackle will end up costing you 3 times what you have budgeted and possibly take 4 times longer than you expected.

[64airstream]

I agree with Tony. Remove the lower interior panels wherever you are replacing floor sections. This will give you access to the floor to C channel bolts for removal (or cut-off if rusted tight). I have not done an entire subfloor (only sections) but, if it was me, I'd do one section at a time, probably starting with the rear (bath). The chances are more work will be required there due to rot and rust from tank and shower leakage. This will open up the frame and black tank (I can't remember when Airstream started installing gray water tanks). Any under floor drain repairs can be made at that time. The shower traps are often frozen and cracked in older units and might need replaced in yours as well. That's easier when the floor is up. Assessment of the frame will tell you whether your going to need welding or, hopefully, just a wire wheel and POR paint. No need to freak out until you get a good look, and then there's no need to freak out, because you know what you're dealing with. The rear of the longer units, like yours, can also have some sag (separation), if present, that will take some additional time and effort. There are a couple of threads here about the belly pan job, and I think the bottom line was you don't need to freak out, it's just more time and effort, laying on your back on the gravel, in the winter with snow blowing under the trailer like a wind tunnel...

You'll also start getting a feel for the state of the insulation when you remove those lower interior panels. I started using 1/2 styrofoam panels and using 3 layers. Less scoring is required to make the curves with 1/2 inch than with 1-1/2 inch. I helped Shacksman replace a rear corner exterior panel on our '68 Overlander and he had some really great flexible insulation material, but I'm not sure what it was or even if it's available in the states.

I'm sure others would also like to follow your progress and would learn a lot from any photos you'd be willing to post.

Good luck and enjoy - this part is part of the fun, it just doesn't feel like it from time to time,

Roy and Marie

[64airstream]

By the way, I relooked at your avatar info and at 28' you probably won't have any rear sag to contend with and I'm pretty sure you won't deal with snow blowing under the trailer in Florida. If you do, you'll probably have bigger issues than the belly pan on your mind...

Roy

[CraigCam]

WOW, this forum is filled with great people and advise. I just started gutting it tonight and have decided to take it one step at a time. I have been trying to learn the entire process at once but have decided that is what was freaking me out. Thanks again for the advise fro everyone. I will post pics along the way.

[Slats]

How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.

[Lumatic]

I think much easier to remove bellypan to get at the frame than subfloor, unless you have a rotten floor and need to do it anyway. Even more better cut a window in the bellypan to check the frame condition or use a camera on a flexible shaft.

Do you have confirmed frame damage or just suspect it?

Frame cancer is related to the weather and other conditions the stream lived, especially humidity and salt. If the trailer is from a dry area the frame may be just fine. Surface rust can look scary, but is normal.

[mikextr]

1.The interior furnishings and fixtures need to come out first. Start at the front then work your way to the back of the trailer. The trailer interior was installed at the factory starting at the back and going forward to the front. Make sure you have photos of all lights, switches, and outlets in their original locations as you remove the interior. Wear respiratory protection!

2. Remove the lower interior skins to gain access to the c-channel, subfloor, and frame connections. Evaluate your subfloor and decide if it all needs to be replaced or just sections. Also, evaluate your insulation to determine the extent of any water damage, mold, and rodent infestation. All interior skins may need to be removed in order to replace the old insulation.

3. I left the belly pan on during subfloor removal and cleaned out the belly pan debris from above. If the frame needs repairs, as mine did, then you will have to remove the belly pan for full access to the frame. You may want to completely remove the shell from the frame at this point if you have not done so already.

4. The subfloor and frame repairs can be completed with the shell partially attached to the frame. This is the method I chose and it worked well for me. Others feel that building a gantry and removing the shell completely from the frame improves the work flow. I would agree, especially if extensive frame repairs are needed.

Good luck

[CraigCam]

I am finding that one of the previous owners has sprayed that foam insulation between the subfloor and belly pan in the bathroom area and kitchen area. What would they do that and should I remove it when the subfloor is out?

[64airstream]

I understood that the 1968 models were built by Airstream with spray-on foam insulation on the underside of the subfloor. Our '68 has this. I'm wondering if the factory continued to use spray foam beyond 1968? Possibly as a special order option. The purpose was to insulate the floor.

Hopefully someone here knows for sure,

Roy and Marie

[TheGreatleys]

Originally Posted by CraigCam

I am finding that one of the previous owners has sprayed that foam insulation between the subfloor and belly pan in the bathroom area and kitchen area. What would they do that and should I remove it when the subfloor is out?

Depends on what kind of spray foam you're talking about. Is this the canned foam that someone might use to plug up a hole to keep rodents out, or in a vain attempt to address rotten floors? Or is this an actual layer of foam insulation?

My guess is that if you take out a section of subfloor, the foam will likely come with it.

[CraigCam]

It looks like the stuff you buy from lowes in a can.