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Old 07-10-2012, 10:06 AM   #29
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Any play or slop in the pads is not good. You might need to bend the pads so everything is good and tight, or replace worn pins and parts. I just replaced the rear pads in my Expedition and one of the pads was missed formed from the factory I had to grind down the metal in a few places so the pad fit and worked smoothly. But it's hard to add metal back. Hope you have safe travels on your way home.

Damon
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:46 AM   #30
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We had been driving with the brakes dialed off and keeping good distance until we got to Park City, UT and the steep downgrade there. I wanted them on as backup so the Hummer would not have to brake too hard. Well, I left them on and when we got to our stop for the evening, we were pulling in and at one point the brakes chattered like I never heard before with the E/H pump on its lowest setting - the point where it just turns on. What a racket.

Robert - I just read what you said about welding a washer on the pad. That is a possibility I will look into. I also am thinking of taking the pads down to NAPA to see what they can come up with. I just know this should not be happening.
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:53 AM   #31
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No, I don't own that system and have never worked on it.

I did work on 40-ton railcars that had a similar system and we were forever replacing sleeves that protected the brake pad retaining bolts due to wear from high-speed flutter that amplifies as more free-play is introduced.

Pads were changed out often from friction pad material wearing out and the backing plate ears 'opening all the way up' problem didn't occur often since the backing plate was a better grade of steel with the softer metal retaining sleeves absorbing the impacts.

I can see shadows and bright metal in the pictures so it looks like the tolerances have widened from rusting and metal being 'cut' from vibrations and wear. Without 'being' there and measuring things I can only guess those pins are a wear item too. And, is there an outer sleeve missing from the retaining pins?

Yes, the railcar brake discs weighed 160 pounds each new and the pads were huge in comparison, plus the sleeves were the size of half-dollars and may have had 100,000 miles of revenue service on them but disc brakes are disc brakes.

If the assemblies are assembled according to spec - all spacers and brackets in their appointed places, the friction pad sweeping the correct band on the disc - and the disc itself has no untrue warpage perhaps from uneven rust scale building up and trapped behind one edge on the flange behind the lug nuts - and the pad retaining pin diameters are correctly matched to the bores in the castings...

Then installing new pins (and possibly sleeves) should limit the travel from pad flutter and reduce the peening and movement of metal on the pad ears. Notice I said reduce not eliminate as the tolerances have widened from rust, and any un-true elements of the disc or pads not retracting fully off the disc surface will keep some oscillation in play but with new pins reducing the amount of travel the impact force on the pad ears will be lessened.
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Old 07-16-2012, 11:46 AM   #32
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Has anyone checked the rotors for run out? If the rotors are badly warped, the ends of the pads will be forced back and forth along the retaining pins while under pressure which may be causing your wear problem?
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:18 PM   #33
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So what does Andy have to say about the pads?
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:03 PM   #34
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I haven't talked to Andy and he has said nothing here. I cannot say that it is a problem with his pads. I can only say that the constant rattling over thousands of miles takes a toll on the pads I did have and that is the most likely contributor to the failure.
I am replacing the clevis pins today with new ones custom made for me by my brother.
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:44 AM   #35
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Interesting issue... I too have never seen anything like that. New clevis pins should help, but I'd try finding the auto equivelant for those pads and see if they also come with a "quieting" shim (they look like a plastic shim) to help hold the pads from rattling. I think having the rotors turned would be beneficial too. If I'm not mistaken, the rotors from Kodiak are the same as Chevy 3/4 ton 2wd rotors, and I think the calipers are as well.

Good luck!
Marc
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