Breakaway Switch Activation

[Thurston III]

On our AS, I'm trying to get a sense for when the breakaway switch is supposed to be pulled apart to activate the trailer brakes. Is that at the point of being disconnected from the hitch but still connected to the chains or beyond that? The reason I ask is because with the supplied length of cable on our AS breakaway switch it would have to have broken free of the chains (doing a ghost ride) to have activated the brakes. I'd like to know if I need to shorten the cable!!! Also where and how are people making that connection?

To everyone that supports this site thanks for the wealth of information you give all of us newbies!!!

[Mollysdad]

My breakaway cable is way too long also.
My salesman encouraged me to tie a very loose overhand knot in it so the cable didn't hang down but would pull tight when needed.
I think I'm going to change it out to one of the coily cables.

[rmkrum]

Typically the breakaway switch is intended to lock up the trailer brakes if it is totally disconnected from the tow vehicle, hitch, chains and all. The idea is to stop the trailer from wiping out whatever it may hit unbraked. Tis a safety thing, and required by law. That's why you need to have a breakaway switch and cable, and a charged battery in the circuit so the brakes function during a breakaway.

If your trailer comes off or breaks the hitch ball, but the chains are still intact, the idea is that the crossed chains will catch the A-frame, hold it off the road, and allow you to notice. Then a gentle application of brakes will slow the rig to a stop. The trailer hitch may beat up the back of the tow vehicle a bit, but the trailer can stay behind you, and you can control the situation somewhat..

Because you want the breakaway cable to pull the switch in case of total hitch failure, it it best to NOT connect the breakaway to ANY part of the hitch assembly. It should go to the tow vehicle frame or some other well-anchored independent part.

One clever idea floated on the forums was to install an eye bolt in place of one of the fasteners holding the license plate in place. That buys you two things. One is that if the trailer and all the hitch parts should depart the tow vehicle, the cable will get pulled, and the trailer should skid to a stop.

The other is that the license plate is usually mounted in a more convenient location to hook up the breakaway cable without having to crawl around under the tow vehicle trying to reach the frame.

A nice stainless steel eye bolt can be found in the hardware department, A couple nice big fender washers and a nylon locking nut makes it look nice, and not rust...

Of course, to prevent the inevitable "laundry problem" caused by a breakaway, careful hitch inspection and use will help avoid that particular emergency...

It has happened. There was a rather infamous case of a smallish cement mixer (with NO brakes) coming loose from the tow vehicle in San Diego. It careened down the hill, and caused a fatal accident during rush hour. Not a good day for all concerned. Sadly, the safety chains were not hooked up properly...

[kscherzi]

I cut mine short. You want those trailer brakes activated the moment it pops off the ball. Full braking (chains attached) will help keep the trailer aligned with the tow vehicle.

Further, you should not attach the breakaway cable to the hitch. Imagine if somehow the entire hitch through rust or metal fatigue were to fall off your tow vehicle. Attach the breakaway cable to somewhere else. I mounted a small eye to the bumper of my truck as the attachment point.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

My breakaway cable is way too long also.
My salesman encouraged me to tie a very loose overhand knot in it so the cable didn't hang down but would pull tight when needed.
I think I'm going to change it out to one of the coily cables.

Good idea. Dragging it on the pavement will eventually cut through the cable. I'm not that sure an overhand knot is any better. It could kink and break the cable in the emergency. Don't twist the chains to shorten them, either!

I rig mine so there is enough slack for turns, but does not drag. Changing to the longer stinger on my ProPride got the breakaway cable well clear of the ground without needing the extension piece in the chain, umbilical, and breakaway extension kit. I did extend the safety chains 3-4 links to get them just the right length to cross and still not drag on the road.

[AirstreamCSH]

The short answer is you need it to have less slack than you have in your chains but enough slack so it doesn’t get pulled out on a sharp turn and lock up the brakes.
The long answer is in this good video.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eubR3ssLiOM

[ROBERT CROSS]

To the TV, so it engages with the chains ATTACHED.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Thurston III]

Thanks for all the information on this, the youtube video was good. I will be making some changes to my method of connection as instructed by our dealer. I like the eyebolt in the license plate mount idea. The cable will be connected so there's plenty of room to make turns, but will activate breakaway switch if trailer is being pulled by the safety chains.

[waninae39]

@Mollysdad

no need to change or buy anything

ours is far too long also.

i simply loop it through TV hook hole ( left or right) then put it through the lock that prevents the latch from opening

[kscherzi]

It's worth mentioning that many Airstream trailers have their safety chains welded to a single point under the hitch. Thus it is impossible to cross the chains in a way that catches the trailer should it pop off the ball. Mine is a 2013 and came new from Airstream that way. That's why I subscribe to the "short as possible" breakaway switch cable plan. I want full trailer brakes the moment it pops off the ball.