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John · 10-23-2003, 05:49 AM

I was told when I 1st got my trailer that you shouldn't park your trailer directly on asphalt, as this will speed up the dry-rotting process.

So when ever I'm going to be parked for longer than a month, I pull the trailer up on leveling blocks under all four tires. I have also put boards under each tire too.

Does this apply also when parking on cement, dirt or grass?

What do you do to prevent the dry-rotting process?

What shouldn't you do?

Silvertwinkie · 10-23-2003, 06:57 AM

Here are a few tips that I use (knowing that dry rot is a fact if life and that the tires should still be replaced after 2, 3 or 4 seasons)....

First, when the coach is on my driveway for extended periods of time I:

- Back the trailer on thin sheets of wood

- Cover the wheels to protect them from direct sunlight and elements

- Take fresh motor oil and coat either side of the sidewalls

Now I know some folks might not agree with the oil on the sidewalls but I saw this Discovery Channel thing a few months ago and they interviewed a detail shop....this guy applies it about 3 times between several hours and since I've done it, it works VERY well. His logic was simply that the tire is an oil based product and couldn't understand why folks put silicone on it....the tire when using oil, absorbs the oil. After about 3 applications, it has oil in the rubber area and the surface remains moist and clean (but not wet looking) for months and months! Also if the sidewalls get dirty, they clean in a SNAP!

Be careful not to get oil on or near the treads....for obvious reasons!

I've since done this to all my tires on the ol' fleet of vehicles I have, each one has left me with a postive impression. One other thing is to make sure you wipe any excess that may not have been absorbed...you don't want motor oil sprayed across body panels of any vehicle as the tire rotates.....

Anyway, back to the overall list above, don't forget the others too I find they are very important too when having the unit sit for long periods. Plus the thin boards help prevent the asphalt from sinking under the tire weight. I would do the same steps on grass, cement or asphalt.

Eric

John · 10-23-2003, 08:48 AM

Eric,

Thanks for the tip on oiling the sidewalls to keep the rubber from drying out!!!

JimC · 10-23-2003, 08:58 AM

I going to try motor oil on my tractor tires. They are very expensive to replace, and I could never ware them out through the amount of use I put on them.

Jim

Silvertwinkie · 10-23-2003, 08:59 AM

Anytime...I was skeptical at first, but once you try it, I think you'll be very happy with the results....
Just as an update, I have yet to re-oil the sidewalls (both sides of the tire) since doing this. It's been about a month and a half and the sidewalls look amazing, even with all the gravel and dirt roads I've had to use throughout construction season out here.

The car has been through the car wash about 4x too and the sidwalls just rinse right off.

Oh yea, then there is also the dry rot protection....

Eric

Silvertwinkie · 10-23-2003, 09:05 AM

They way I did it was after the tires were cleaned, I took some 5w30. I just took a rag, soaked it as needed (had latex gloves on my hands and would suggest you do the same--cancer and toxic stuff and all) and wiped both sides of the sidewalls.

I then made sure each side of the sidewall was throughly wet with oil. I waited about 3-4 hours for it to soak in and then came back and dabbed the excess spots off and then repeated the process. 3-4 hours later, I dabbed the excess once again.

The next day, I did the whole process one time more, dabbed up the excess and have not touched the tires since.

Now on one vehicle as a test, I did the application once, not the three times and it was a very respectable outcome, but I found that a min of 2 applications seems to work a bit better and 3 pretty much is me just being excessive (but the guy on TV did it three times too, but much shorter intervals.)

Just be very careful to dab any excess off so that the vehicle is not sprayed with oil as the wheel turn...also be careful not to get oil on your rims...I don't think you'll have issues with the tractor rims, but some of these alum/chrome rims might not like oil.....

Happy oiling....

Eric

wahoonc · 10-23-2003, 12:04 PM

Now you have me wondering, I recall reading how race car drivers in the 20'S and 30'S would run with one wheel in the center of the lane in the oil streak to make the tires last longer

Aaron

Silvertwinkie · 10-23-2003, 12:22 PM

I'm glad you all fiind it useful.....I thought I was one of the last to know...you know once it's on TV, I figured the secret was out.

They didn't specify on the show what weight oil to use. I really don't think it matters, you just don't want real thick stuff like 80w oil. 5/30 is cheap, but I think 10/30 or 10/40 would work too or straight 10. My results were using 5/30 FWIW....

The tires on my Impala SS are pretty costly too. So far, so good.

Best of luck to you all...

Eric

Pahaska · 10-23-2003, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Silvertwinkie
They didn't specify on the show what weight oil to use. I really don't think it matters, you just don't want real thick stuff like 80w oil. 5/30 is cheap, but I think 10/30 or 10/40 would work too or straight 10. My results were using 5/30 FWIW....
Eric

I suspect that good old 30-weight non-detergent might be best. I can't see where all the additives would apply when using oil in this manner.

In the Airstream manual, non-detergent oil is specified for the hitch latch. I keep a can handy for this purpose.

markdoane · 10-23-2003, 03:17 PM

Some of the tire mfg sites say don't put any petroleum based products on tires, it dissolves the rubber. I'm just quoting them, not endorsing their obsolecence.
In the fire dept, we used brake fluid to polish tires.

Sneakinup · 10-23-2003, 03:50 PM

Just read this post, and was surfing the internet and found the RV Doctor. Read this post/question.

For what it is worth...

http://www.rvdoctor.com/rvdoctor262.html
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dear RV Doctor,
I recently read an article you wrote regarding tire damage by ultraviolet rays; it was very informative. I was talking to another RVer recently who told me that wiping the sidewalls with transmission fluid will help prevent sidewall cracks due to ultraviolet rays. My question to you is can this be possible? He claims that the properties of transmission fluid and the tires are very similar and that's why it works. I would appreciate your comments on this since I just purchased six new tires for my rig after the originals were so cracked that I felt it would be dangerous to drive on them.

Carlo
(Las Vegas, NV)

Carlo,
Negative on the tranny fluid Carlo. This will cause the tires to dry out excessively. As the oil evaporates it will deplete all the natural surface waxes blended in during manufacture. Avoid any product that contains petroleum-based or silicone substances. There are some nice products available in the aftermarket that can block UV rays and protect against ozone damage, but they typically will leave the tires with a dull sheen rather than the nice shiny surface most people like; plus they are probably less expensive. Cover the tires when not in use. The flexing and bending they receive while driving will bring the waxes back to the surface.

JodynJeep · 10-23-2003, 04:04 PM

There was a guy I met once - who had a 1940's schoolbus with the original tires on them. He worked at General Tires for 40+ years... when I asked him what he did to keep the tires - he said put Gesso (sp) on them... same stuff you use to under coat acrylic paintings on canvas for a vibrant finish while keeping the vanvas flexible...and to slow drying time when mixed directly into the acrylic paints...remains flexible even after hardening...

53flyingcloud · 10-23-2003, 04:30 PM

Jody

You're right about the spelling..
GESSO

ciao

Sav'h Steve · 10-23-2003, 04:46 PM

I've read several articles saying oils are not good on tires. Here is an exerpt from a google search:
(motorcycle site)

Tire Care Challenge
Your bike's tires have several formidable enemies: water, formaldehyde, petroleum distillates, ultraviolet light, and ozone. Water washes away the natural oils in rubber that keep it elastic. Formaldehyde and petroleum distillates act as a solvent, eating rubber on contact. When ozone, an odorless gas which is part of the air we breathe, is combined with ultraviolet (UV) light, a reaction occurs that attacks the tire and its polymers (the agents that bind the rubber).

bold added by me...

Sav'h Steve · 10-23-2003, 04:55 PM

Another source from Goodyear:

Oil, Solvents and Grease
Mounted or unmounted tires
should never be stored on oily floors
or otherwise in contact with solvents,
oil or grease. Nor should tires be stored
in the same or adjoining rooms with
volatile solvents. These solids, liquids or
vapors are readily absorbed in rubber
and will damage and weaken it .

**Action** · 10-23-2003, 05:09 PM

I have an issue with the above quote on transmission oil evaporating.

I do not believe oil evaporates!

Water evaporates. Silicone coiuld. Brake fluid might.

Engine oil, automatic transmission oil, and rear axle grease could not evaporate unless we are talking about burning or combustion. The oil in thoses liquids does not evaporate.

And my opinion on applying an oil to a tire is that it does act as a solvent. (Cleaner) For a short term application, (such as cleaning) I would think solvents would have only a small effect. And I am open to being wrong on that opinion. Look at carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Those chemicals are stuffed with petroleum distillates and solvents. I do not use them on tires nor on any rubber vinyl items.

>>>>>>>>Action

**Action** · 10-23-2003, 05:15 PM

That products website recommends it for ridged not flexible canvas. Not sure it would be much good for flexible tires.

>>>>>>>>>Action

JodynJeep · 10-23-2003, 05:21 PM

The biggest point that may need to be realized is that oils and petroleum by products when applied - tend to heat. Tires generate heat in form of friction of road contact - plus that absorbed from heat generated from ball bearings etc.. Natural property of such petroleum products is to react to it. This to causes undo degeneration of the tires underneath the application since the tire itself as well has these properties. So while such applications in a storage enviroment may be the lesser of two evils - I would think it may be wise not to practice this method when actually towing on a steady basis or over long hauls. The best surefire way to prevent tire rot - is when you intend on storing the unit for long periods of time - remove the tires and place them in a cool - dark - dry location - or make it part of the schedule that you bring the trailer out for a jaunt around the block or two every month or two... also make sure you check tire pressures prior to storage and inflate / deflate to proper temps that the weather conditions dictate - which will substainally improve the life of the tire as well. I know I am guilty of the same procedure which is why I ended up having to replace tires on my Mustang that had less than 15K on them. (left it outside and low profile tires do not really like storage for long periods in 15 degree weather with PSI set at 90 degree temps settings....

Sav'h Steve · 10-23-2003, 05:30 PM

And yet another source from Car Care Specialties:

"My personal favorite tire and exterior rubber/vinyl trim protectant is Black Again. It is, in my opinion, the best non-silicone oil based product to restore the jet-black patina to tires and exterior rubber/vinyl. A white creamy polymer emulsion, with a heavy duty UV protectant, it works equally well on all colors of exterior trim. An excellent spray on type of protectant for tires and rubber trim is One Grand Exterior Rubber Treatment. Spray on, allow to penetrate and buff off the excess, leaving a medium gloss, non-greasy finish. Harly Tire Nu is another spay on product with a high gloss finish. Meguiar #40 is a vinyl and rubber cleaner and conditioner. I feel it works better on vinyl than it does on rubber. Leaves a medium gloss finish. Sonax Trim Protectant cleans and protects exterior vinyl and rubber, producing a high gloss finish. Zymol Tyre is a new product that leaves a medium gloss and helps restore some of the black patina to rubber. Wurth Rubber Care, Sonax Rubber Care and Zymol Seal are designed for the "live" rubber door gaskets. These products are rich in glycerin and help maintain the flexibility and sealing ability of the gaskets. A nice side benefit is that they help keep doors from freezing in winter.
© 1999 Car Care Specialties, Inc."

Sav'h Steve · 10-23-2003, 05:37 PM

but contains some good info from their website.....

"303 Aerospace Protectant on Antique (Classic Car) tires !
You’ve seen them around, those spiffy, brand-new looking Classic Cars that catch everyone’s eye.
As you might guess, these collector cars don’t get driven much, often only on perfect sunny days, to club gatherings or car shows.
Because they’re seldom driven, classic car tires only rarely are warn out. Instead they share the problem shared by RVers & trailer boaters….the tire side walls dry, check and eventually crack. With miles of healthy treat remaining, the side walls fail.
Tire manufacturers use specialized waxes to forestall this problem. When tires are in use, they flex. This flexing causes the waxes to migrate to the surface where they form a physical barrier to keep air (ozone and other oxidizing gases) away from the tire polymer. This process, waxes moving to the surface because of flexing, is called ‘Blooming’.
When tires are not used regularly (a stored classic car, tractor or motorcycle), blooming does not occur.
Unfortunately, many “protectants” and “tire dressings” use petrochemicals and silicone oil formulations which remove the protective waxes thus increasing the rate of degradation. Tire manufacturers are well aware that these products do this. When evidence of the use of these products is found during a side wall failure warranty situation, this alone is often cause for not warranting the tire.
303 Aerospace Protectant does NOT contain petrochemicals or silicone oils and does not remove the protective wax layer. Instead it forms a durable barrier ozone has to eat through before it can get to the wax, before it can get to the tire. 303 also delivers a set of powerful UV stabilizers into the rubber to protect against UV degradation…the second environmental factor related to side wall failure.
303 Aerospace Protectant protects against ozone & UV and, used regularly, protects tires against the drying and checking that leads to side wall failure. (A large N. California public utility found only 303 protected the tires of utility vehicles used around geothermal plants, while untreated tires commonly last only a year due to the emission of subterranean gasses in those areas). And if that wasn’t enough, 303 Aerospace Protectant imparts the lustrous, rich, dark black look and feel of brand new rubber. Here’s how:
Spray 303 Aerospace Protectant on a clean and dry tire until the side wall is thoroughly wet with 303. Without touching the rubber, use a soft, absorbent cloth to wipe away any 303 over spray from the rim. Do each tire the same way.
The first treatment takes a little more product. After 10 minutes or so, on any part of the tire where 303 has completely absorbed in and dried, mist on a little more 303. When you see the tires won’t absorb any more 303, wipe each tire completely dry to pick up any excess 303."