Finally!
The Tradewind is up on ramps. We've also got jacks supporting it in the back and two on the hitch for now, because the belly pan isn't off yet. When it comes off we're moving the jacks to the frame and adding two more.
Here are some not-so-great pictures from just a few minutes ago...
FINALLY!
__________________
"Let's look Death in the face and say, 'Whatever man.'"
~ Hurley
Tarheel: Here's dumb question: What keeps the individual wooden blocks from moving when you are pulling the trailer onto the blocks for leveling or tire replacement?
Gumbo123
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach
, Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 7,801
Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags
I would not use wood. Wood can be extremely slippery when wet.
I use the Lynx Levelers. They do double duty. They are much easier to store and carry. They lock together. They do not slip.
They work great. I speak from experience. I have changed a tire on the road four times in the last three years.
Here's a photo of them in use on the road with an actual flat tire.
Brian
Yep, they are very flexible. Use them to level your rig side-to-side when camping on dirt, use them under the stabilizer jacks - throw an oreo under each one and ants will never bother to climb up and into your trailer. Stack them up and use them as a ramp - I also have the wheel chock pieces which can keep you from driving off the edge of the ramp.
In mud, place two rows of 4 together in front of the door to get the stuff off your boots outside!
Paula
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Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
I was grown before I knew that "cinderblocks" could be used for building. I thought they were made for putting under cars.
Never EVER put anything heavy on a cinder block. I know some people who lost their son when a cinder block he was using to hold up a car crumbled and the car fell on him. Wood is dangerous enough, but concrete is a really bad idea.
__________________ AIR #8891 Unrestored 1969 25' Tradewind Overkill Tow Vehicle of the Year Award:
2001 GMC 3500 4x4 Dually 6.6L Duramax
I took six, 2 x 8's, (Douglas fir) six feet long for each ramp.
I made a laminated beam, by setting the boards on 'edge'...
Before the actual 'laminating', on one board, I drew out and cut the 'ramp' or incline at one end using a saw...I then used it as a pattern to cut the remaining boards...
I then laminated the six boards for each ramp, using some glue and several bolts, nuts, etc...
I attached two cheap handles on one side of one ramp - then attached two handles on the opposite side of the other ramp...so you can position the ramps with the handles on the outside of the trailer, no matter which way you need to use the ramps...
I've used these ramps many times...even used them when I replaces both axles on our AS last year - run up one axle on the ramp - other axle hangs there for service, tire changing etc...works great...
I always leave the TV hooked to the trailer when on the ramps for safety, especially if I'm rolling around under it, laying on a creeper!
Gumbo I rely on a principle that I don't fully understand, If I remember a little about my high school science class I think they called it gravity. In extreme situations they can and do slip, but then so do the others. Its just a quick cheap way of getting the trailer off the ground and the blocks can be used for leveling as well as jack pads. I personally use aluminum ramps with groves that accomodate a matching chock. I think these were carried by Camping world about 10-15 years ago. The only place I have found them has been at flea markets at the bigger rallies. Best of luck. Rick
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Past President Tidewater Unit 111
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