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Old 05-26-2008, 10:44 PM   #15
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The motors use a sintered bronze bushing mounted in oil soaked felt.
when they dry out, they get noisy. If the inside diameter isn't worn excessively, re-oiling the felts will make everything copacetic, but it does require taking the motor apart. Replacement motors have a reputation for brush noise. Here is link to a good trouble-shooting article: <http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/furnace1.html>Troubleshooting the RV Furnace
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:24 PM   #16
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NT 30K motor

Any possibility the NT 30k blower is still around?

Thanks,
Steve

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Originally Posted by musketeer View Post
I'm in the process of replacing my 1989 vintage NT30 K furnace with a NT30 SP. My blower works fine but the furnace won't light, so decided to swap it out for a new one. Used motor and other parts are available very reasonably (like free if you come and get it). Also, new furnaces are available very resonably from Palomino. THe price of a new motor is about half of the price of a new furnace.
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:04 PM   #17
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For whatever it is worth Suburban recommends not to put screens on
We bought a fresh Suburban furnace a few years ago,I won't even say how much money we've spent on those crappy furnaces since then. By the way, it's the motor, which we've replaced three times.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:34 PM   #18
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Ditto on the motor info Excella CM
I just did 2 of my NT30-K's, saved me $300 for 2 motors.
You have to have some patience but worth the effort to save $$$.
Not a problem since.
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:59 PM   #19
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One of my NT30's has a cracked heat exchanger
But I kept the parts and motor re-lubed motor just
In case I need a back up.
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:31 AM   #20
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Why is it that when you most need the furnace you gotta deal with inop issues like this. Quality?
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:55 AM   #21
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It may be quality, Barry, but I guess a good part of that is trying to build a product that will withstand the onslaught of both shaking and dust invasion.

Of course, Airstream has to depend on RV component manufacturers like Suburban that supply other RV companies. As such, the manufacturer is put into a kind of bind: People buy cheap white-sided rigs in far, far greater numbers than Airstreams, and that hold up for six or eight years before they're sent to the junk heap. So why build a product that should hold up for many more years of service?

Personally, though, I'm happy enough with the old Suburban in our rig, even though I have to take it apart every couple of years to R&R the sail switch.


Lynn
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:28 AM   #22
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For whatever it is worth Suburban recommends not to put screens on
I saw that somewhere in their data too, as I was replacing the old one.

I plan on getting a pair of them but only to leave on in summer, when I won't be using the furnace, and also when the insects are nesting.

I suppose late spring/early fall (when it -might- be used) I could put a red dot on the thermostat to remind me they are on.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:00 PM   #23
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(snip)
Of course, Airstream has to depend on RV component manufacturers like Suburban that supply other RV companies. As such, the manufacturer is put into a kind of bind: People buy cheap white-sided rigs in far, far greater numbers than Airstreams, and that hold up for six or eight years before they're sent to the junk heap. So why build a product that should hold up for many more years of service?


Lynn
A couple of years ago I replaced my NT16 with a new one with electronic ignition. The old one was very quiet with a nice sized cage type fan. The new one uses a propeller fan, and is much much noisier, but must be cheaper to build. As you say, AS cannot produce their own furnaces and the ones they can buy are driven by the majority of the market, which demands cheap products, especially since most purchasers will not know the difference.

The one place I feel AS falls down on appliances is the AC unit. There are high efficiency 13,500 btuh units available which take only a bit over 10 amps to run, vs. the 13 to 14 amps for the "standard" unit. The cost of the high efficiency one is probably less than $50 wholesale difference. The lower amp draw high efficiency one will use significantly less energy and will have a much better chance of operating on a 2000 watt inverter generator. Why not specify it as the AS standard? What is $50 in the cost of a new AS price?

To answer my own question, if you are at a campground using "free" electricity, no one cares (but the campground owner puts the price of the extra power in the space rent cost). And apparently AS still does not think many of their owners Boondock and use generators.
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