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Chaplain Kent · 08-02-2005, 02:48 PM

I gave up on the Gen Set, anyone who wants to chime in on that the thread is under "mechanical stuff." So now I switched over to the blower for the dash AC. First off the fuse was blown. I replaced that. Next the blower for the heater works fine but the blower for the AC makes a terrible noise like it is rubbing on something, most likly a bad bearing. There is no low speed. I got down as close as I could to the assembly and it appears there are two separate blowers one for the heater and one for the AC. The diagram in my service manual does not look anything like what is under my dash! It appears to me that the AC fan is behind the heater fan and this is where the noise is coming from. I also have separate switches and vents for these two fans. OK, who has this set up and who has replaced it? Are there parts available since I am almost certain I will need to replace the blower for the AC? Can this job be done without removing the dash and or heater core? I live in Wisconsin where it is not supposed to be hot; why is it hot and why do I need the AC?

Chaplain Kent · 08-08-2005, 09:48 PM

Here I am answering my own post. I worked on the AC blower today. I took two of the small nozzles from the cans of spray lubricants and made one longer nozzle tube. Next I soaked the AC fan with GUNK solvent/lubricant and let it soak for several hours. When I turned on the fan it ran quietly even at low speed, which did not operate at all before. I let it run for about thirty minutes and it just hummed along. Hopefully this is fixed and can be crossed off of my list.

pbnjsellers · 08-16-2005, 08:29 AM

But have you addressed the problem of why it is hot in Wisconsin?

swebster · 08-16-2005, 09:08 AM

Good to know. My fan makes noise as well. I've been avoiding tearing open my dash as log as possible....maybe this will extend my denial a little longer.

Chaplain Kent · 08-16-2005, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pbnjsellers

But have you addressed the problem of why it is hot in Wisconsin?

Pollution drifting North from Chicago.

dienst1 · 09-03-2005, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent

Here I am answering my own post. I worked on the AC blower today. I took two of the small nozzles from the cans of spray lubricants and made one longer nozzle tube. Next I soaked the AC fan with GUNK solvent/lubricant and let it soak for several hours. When I turned on the fan it ran quietly even at low speed, which did not operate at all before. I let it run for about thirty minutes and it just hummed along. Hopefully this is fixed and can be crossed off of my list.

Which GUNK solvent did you use? I located NM1 Electric Motor Cleaner at NAPA. Also, where did you aim the spray. The motor is accessable from the bottom opening of the blower housing.

ALANSD · 09-04-2005, 07:40 AM

I have had good luck using the electrical cleaner/lube sold at Home Depot. Used it on fans, motors, contacts, etc all worked better. Two noisy exhaust fans quieted down for many months after using this stuff.
Its hot in Wisconsin because of global warming...what else?
(Ok lets not go there)

Chaplain Kent · 09-12-2005, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dienst1

Which GUNK solvent did you use? I located NM1 Electric Motor Cleaner at NAPA. Also, where did you aim the spray. The motor is accessable from the bottom opening of the blower housing.

Just returned from a two week trip where we used the blowers most days. Sometimes for AC and then for defrost on the chillier days. They hummed away with no loud noise.
I used Gunk Liquid Wrench- Super Lubricant. Aiming the spray is a trick. I used two red nozzle hoses pushed together and sprayed inside both ends of the blower assembly. Mine is like a squirrel cage and I barely have access to each side but was able to stick the end of my tube in and spray the can of lubricant. I would start the fan and if it made a noise- spray more- I used most of the can. I would like to get in thier with something more permanent than the Liquid Wrench and will do so next time the dog house is apart.

Bfrank · 10-07-2005, 09:58 AM

Chaplin, There is one motor for the a/c it has a squirrel
cage fan on each side of the motor. most Likely the cage is rubbing on the side of the condenser housing. its very hard to get apart and get at as well but it can be done.
you may have to remove the dash pad as well. Or you
might be able to geet the cage to move if you know whitch side it is rubbing on.

wb13798 · 10-16-2005, 04:32 PM

if it is like mine. i removed the motor assembly (four nuts) was a pain in the hip pocket. my problem was the squarel cage fans were broke and rubbing on something. made one heck of a racket. think i had to cut the connector off the dc wire to get the motor out. had to install a new connector on the r&r . that was five jears ago. make sure the squarrel cages are installed on the side they came out of. if not your air flow will be decreased. fan not rotating in the correct direction. best thing is to take a picture of both ends before removing the fans. you can reverse the blades or get the wrong fan. those fans are nla . found mine at the local fleet pride parts store. they were covered with dust . was happy to clean them . as some one noted there is only one motor.

wb13798 · 10-16-2005, 04:38 PM

just remove the kick board in front of the passanger seat. and remove the metal cover on the air box. a bunch of screws. dont forgrt to connect the ground wire when you close up . motor wont run if you forget. i didnt remove the dash cover. probably a lot of work. if some one has tell us how you did it. would be interested to know how much trouble it would be.

Poprivet · 02-05-2007, 03:52 PM

I hate working under the dash but it's better than paying $80/hr.

I finally found the blower and it looks like the squirrel cage housings are mounted to the top of the coil box by four studs for each cage. The motor attaches to the cage by hose clamps. 4 of the mounting nuts are missing and one of the studs. I think the noise is a result of one cage supporting the whole assembly. Does this resemble what you guys have encountered?

I want to go ahead and remove the fans and give them a bench test but am worried about getting them back into the very tight space. Any suggestion's?

Poprivet · 02-06-2007, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Alan

I hate working under the dash but it's better than paying $80/hr.

I finally found the blower and it looks like the squirrel cage housings are mounted to the top of the coil box by four studs for each cage. The motor attaches to the cage by hose clamps. 4 of the mounting nuts are missing and one of the studs. I think the noise is a result of one cage supporting the whole assembly. Does this resemble what you guys have encountered?

I want to go ahead and remove the fans and give them a bench test but am worried about getting them back into the very tight space. Any suggestion's?

Ok - I got the thing out - had too remove the heater core - someone has been in here before. the fan sucked up a mounting bolt. I need a motor and the plastic cage mounts on the motor. No identifing marks on the motor or fan - My Airstream manual states Chevy is the supplier and my P-30 manual states the body manufacture is the supplier. I sent a email to Airstream - hope - hope. Does anyone have any information??

GlenCoombe · 02-06-2007, 09:18 PM

David, one thing is certain. We're waiting to hear what your find out. I was into the same area last weekend trying to find a little more heat for the coach as I'm traveling in the cold more than I want this month.
I don't feel I'm getting enough heat/flow out of my heater core and wonder how much trouble you had getting the core out. I've toyed with the idea of doing a reverse flush from the front of the heater assembly outside. Your thoughts?

Poprivet · 02-07-2007, 11:01 AM

Got the blower assembly out and it's shot. the motor bearings are wornout and the fan cage made of plastic is broken in several places. Looks like the fan sucked up a mounting bolt. The motor bearings were so worn that the armature was rubbing on the stator. This thing is DOA.

Emailed Airstream tech support who told me the supplier of the dash a/c system was Acme Radiator and A/C. ACME Home Page. I called them and to my delight, they have a replacement assembly $81. I priced motors alone for more than that. They put it on UPS today, I'll keep updating this. maybe add some pictures.

str8strm · 02-08-2007, 08:44 AM

pictures would be great!

Poprivet · 02-08-2007, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlenCoombe

David, one thing is certain. We're waiting to hear what your find out. I was into the same area last weekend trying to find a little more heat for the coach as I'm traveling in the cold more than I want this month.
I don't feel I'm getting enough heat/flow out of my heater core and wonder how much trouble you had getting the core out. I've toyed with the idea of doing a reverse flush from the front of the heater assembly outside. Your thoughts?

Glen, removing the heater core was not difficult. It simply sits in a slot and is held in place by the air box cover. Once you remove the hoses, it will slide right out. Make sure your water flow regulator is opening up all the way before you go to all this trouble. This same company makes an auxiliary heater.

GlenCoombe · 02-09-2007, 04:04 PM

I was ordering a new hanger bearing for the driveline today from Mill Supply so I ordered a new gate valve for the coolant hose. I'll put that in when it arrives and check the old one when it's out. I've got the aux. heater in the step down from the cab behind the co-pilots chair.
Even though I've got sufficent cooling I'm wondering about coolant flow as my vaccum is I think weak. My vaccum dependant cruise control works great at 3100 rpm but not at 2800? I'm wondering if it's not time to replace the water pump? Or at least the thermostat housing where the vaccum takeoff is.
Insufficient flow might explain the weaker heat through the heater core.
Comments?

Poprivet · 02-09-2007, 04:21 PM

I don't think vacuum and coolant flow have a interaction. If your engine has no overheating problems, particularly on the long hauls up grade, then your water pump, and entire cooling system, should be fine. I'd concentrate on low flow to the heater cores. Listen to me, a Floridian. Pushed 80 today. Got my tomatoes and peppers passed the two leaf stage.

GlenCoombe · 02-11-2007, 06:26 AM

Yes, I'm aware that the major vaccum takeoff is on the base of the carb. but there is also a vaccum hose on the thermostat housing too. It's likely just time to replace all the vaccum hoses.