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borostreamer · 02-21-2007, 02:03 PM

I am swapping out a Dometic RM 100 for a RM 2820, and looking for any tips or tricks on the making the process silky smooth. I downloaded a set of instruction on installation, and it seems straight forward. However, I find that almost to good to be true. I'm waiting for the delivery of the fridge, and trying to do a little pregame toruble shooting.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

rickandsandi · 02-21-2007, 02:10 PM

Scott-

Right now all I'm going to do is send out positive waves so that this project goes as smoothly as possible. I will not hinder you or your project with any concerns or negtive comments. I expect to see a post from you in a few days with photos of the instalation complete and trouble free!

Boondocker · 02-21-2007, 02:13 PM

I did this last year. So easy a neuroscientist could do it

. As I recall, all it involved was running a wire for the ignitor, connecting the propane, pluging in the shore power cord, and attaching the fridge to the deck.

borostreamer · 02-21-2007, 02:32 PM

Neuroscientist, HUH? If it is that easy, I don't know what I'm stressing about.

Think positive, right!

Condoluminum · 02-21-2007, 02:43 PM

One of the common issues seems to be a few silly millimeters (or eighth's) of difference in exterior height and width. This can creat issues requiring filler strips or router work to make hole inside fit exterior of new box, and make the door panels not look as good as they should... Mostly cosmetic concerns, but Dometic doesn't seem to feel all "medium size refrigerators" need to be the same exerior dimensions...

Good luck with yours...

eubank · 02-21-2007, 04:38 PM

We're going to have the same project once ours arrives (dead MA52 against a new RM7401). Yep, there's going to be some trim work to do in order to make it look nice: The RM7401 is just a smidgen smaller than the old MA52. I figure I may need to reroute the propane feed a little bit, too, but that's not such a tough job. Potentially most challenging would be to deal with wiring: The RM7401 may (or may not) require a 12v feed. (The MA52 had none such.)

Lynn

lewster · 02-21-2007, 06:41 PM

I've removed refers in some trailers and MoHo's that had as many at 12 screws holding them down. The # varies with the OEM manufacturer. Just be sure that you put 2 in the back and 2 in the front at the bottom. The instructions should pinpoint the exact recommended locations. A lot of Dometic refers also require screws at the top, usually hidden by the control panel (eyebrow).

If your cabinet is relatively snug on the top and bottom this should not be a problem. I would say a minimum of 6......2 bottom front, 2 bottom rear and 2 top front. More if you feel the need.

Remember, this thing will be bouncing and swaying down the road, and you sure don't want it breaking free and smashing thru the other side of the trailer in an emergency situation! (hoping that you NEVER have one!!!)

Swanny · 03-18-2007, 04:58 PM

We are getting ready to pull out the 110 V refer that came with our AS and replace it with a RM 2820. In reading the notes there were suggestions about adding a 'combustion seal' to the interior of the trailer. It basically seals the inside of the trailer away from the back of the frig incase of a propane leak.

Anyone heard of this and if so does it come with the frig?

wahoonc · 03-18-2007, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swanny

We are getting ready to pull out the 110 V refer that came with our AS and replace it with a RM 2820. In reading the notes there were suggestions about adding a 'combustion seal' to the interior of the trailer. It basically seals the inside of the trailer away from the back of the frig incase of a propane leak.

Anyone heard of this and if so does it come with the frig?

Swanny,
I would think the "combustion seal" would be to keep Carbon Monoxide from getting in the trailer rather than the LP. I have not paid attention to how the newer units are installed. I know the one on mine was not done correctly because when running on LP it would drive the CO detector crazy. When I reinstall it, the bulkhead will be sealed to the walls and the fridge casing to the bulkhead frames, probably with either a tape sealant or a rubber bulb seal of some type. I don't think it will come with the fridge it is probably and added cost item.

Aaron

eubank · 03-18-2007, 05:17 PM

Yep, I just worked on sealing the new fridge (RM7401) today. Basically, because the new one is smaller than the old one, I had to do some wood work around the perimeter anyway. However, rather than just wood strips as trim, I cut out somewhat larger strips of foam and glued the wood strips to them. Then pushed the wood strips in around the fridge so that there is a positive seal all around.

Lynn

lewster · 03-18-2007, 05:34 PM

Any type of seal that will provide an air tight fit will work. A lot of OEMs use the dreaded 'silicone' and it just peels right away when the refer is removed the first time.............................worthless!!!

I would suggest butyl tape around the entire inside edge of the refer flange. Be sure that it's continuous so there won't be any leaks. You sure don't want your LP detector to go haywire at 02:30 when you're boondocking somewhere!

Rob30044 · 03-18-2007, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swanny

We are getting ready to pull out the 110 V refer that came with our AS and replace it with a RM 2820. In reading the notes there were suggestions about adding a 'combustion seal' to the interior of the trailer. It basically seals the inside of the trailer away from the back of the frig incase of a propane leak.

Anyone heard of this and if so does it come with the frig?

When I replaced my refer with a RM 2820 I had a gap at the top at the control panel. My AS is an 89 Excella. Since you are replacing a 110 V refer I not sure what mods you may have to make. The RM 2820 that I installed had seals around the edges. I secured 2x4 lumber on the sides and front of the opening and set the refer on to raised my new refer to eliminate the gap at the top. I purchased an additional sealing strip to seal the bottom.

Swanny · 03-19-2007, 01:38 PM

I'll take these to heart when the frig comes in.

I ordered one from Jevin today at Palomino parts and the AS price is $850. When I asked about them being quoted cheaper on our site he stated that was only when they are overstocked

He did ask me to post the new phone numbers. This is his direct line so you don't have to go through the front office.

(269) 432-9791 or 1-800-297-5830

By the way I ordered a Dometic RM 2820 which was at least $1150 anywhere else I looked. The shipping is $125 with Palomino.

Safari Tim · 03-19-2007, 03:49 PM

I just finished the install on the Ambassador.

I had to build a bulkhead wall to enclose the fridge. I used butyl tape on the back of the wall edge before I secured it in place.

I built a wood frame enclosure for the fridge flange to slide into. The flange has foam strips on it for a seal. I used six screws, on the front two at the top, two at the bottom, then two in the rear.

Another point to consider is to not leave more than an inch open on the rear of the fridge across the top. This would allow heated air to circuilate around the top of the fridge and heat it up. I just blocked off the top of the fridge entirely from the rear.

lewster · 03-19-2007, 06:31 PM

Tim,

Many of the install manuals show a baffle placed at the top of the fridge to direct the hot air out the upper vent and keep it away from circulating above the fridge. You got it right!

Swanny · 03-20-2007, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

I had to build a bulkhead wall to enclose the fridge. I used butyl tape on the back of the wall edge before I secured it in place.

Is butyl tape something I can pick up at Home Depot or Lowes?

Safari Tim · 03-20-2007, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swanny

Is butyl tape something I can pick up at Home Depot or Lowes?

I had better luck with Ace Hardware. They may call it putty tape or mobile home tape. It was near all the caulking tubes.

borostreamer · 03-22-2007, 08:19 PM

Any one have tips on getting my old rm 100 out? I've removed every screw I can find, and the fridge will not move. I' ve tried a pry bar to no avail.
Any suggestions? Help?

Buttercup · 03-22-2007, 09:26 PM

I am reading this and I am feeling some anger. Anger at the installer we paid big bucks to put our new fridge in for us. The top of the fridge cabinet in our '77 Overlander gets quite warm. In fact the side cabinet gets quite warm as well. We now have to leave the side and top cabinets open to dissipate the heat that is building up.
I am guessing that we have a bad sealing issue and that I am going to have to pull the fridge and seal the entire thing.

Swanny · 03-28-2007, 12:48 PM

In the install manual there is no reference to any baffles. It simply says, "Center the coils below the roof vent."

Is this accurate? I was thinking there should be a pipe from the back of the fridge to the roof but when I looked on the back of the fridge there is no exhaust pipe that looks like it should be hooked to anything.

Any tips?