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Old 05-01-2002, 07:48 AM   #1
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Temps in the Freezer/Frig???

Does anyone know what the temps should be? I have my electric set at '5' and the freezer gets to like 15F and the fridge last I checked to about 50F. Is this about right? I am just wondering, because it sure takes it a long time for the fridge baffles to start getting cool/cold. Is this normal? What is the best way to circulate air in here also? suggestions?
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Old 05-01-2002, 09:03 AM   #2
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This may help found this on the Web.

Cold temperatures help keep harmful bacteria from growing and multiplying. A refrigerator temperature of 40 degrees F or lower will slow bacterialgrowth. Keep your freezer at 0 degrees F or lower. Freezing will stop most bacterial growth so frozen foods keep longer than those at refrigerat temperature. Freezing does not kill bacteria so it is still important to handle food safely.Keep an appliance thermometer in your refrigerator and in your freezer to be sure they stay at these recommended temperatures. You can buya thermometer at a discount, hardware or grocery store.

I use one of the remote reading thermometers. I mount the probe for the outside temp in the box and mount the readout above the box, gives me the temp in the box and in the coach.
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Old 05-01-2002, 09:20 AM   #3
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further explanation...

The refer had only been running for approx 4 hours also, I am just not sure how fast they should cool down and what respective temps should be. ie.. if freezer is at 0 F what should the fridge be? See, they might have even gotten colder if I'd let the unit run longer. Not sure, just hoping someone can help with this answer... Andy??


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Old 05-01-2002, 01:45 PM   #4
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It takes my fridge at least 5 hrs. before I consider it cold enough to store things like milk. I have learned to help it along by placing blue ice and a number of 2 liter (Coke) bottles of water which have been frozen in the fridge ahead of time it seems to hasten the cooling. 4 hours doesn't seem to be too long of a time since it is the freezer which gets cold first. I'm not sure on temp because I haven't purchased termometers yet. Set on 4 and using propane, I have ice cubes in the freezer.
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Old 05-01-2002, 02:14 PM   #5
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Depending on what age your reefer is I think it takes longer to cool the older it is, also if it is'nt broke dont fix it, if it cools but just takes longer I would leave it alone you dont want to make it mad and have to buy a new one. I found a small fan setup you put on the bottom of your fridge that is battery run to circulate the air, I will post it when I find it again.

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Old 05-01-2002, 02:45 PM   #6
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Thanks.. Okay 4 hours may not be long enough... I will give it more time. I was just wanting to have the unit cold before we left on our trip Friday. Mine has most likely not been serviced in 30 years... I just hope and pray it will continue to work.
I think there was one in a Airstream catalog I had that came with my camper.. Too bad the catalog is nearly twenty years old...
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Old 05-02-2002, 07:51 AM   #7
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How level are you? You need to be level for the refrigerator to work correctly. What seems like a minor variation can make a HUGE difference in how well your refrigerator and freezer cool.

In fact, you can burn out your refrigerator by running it when you are too far out of level.
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Old 05-02-2002, 10:20 AM   #8
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As noted by others you do have to allow some time for your refrigerator to cool down. As a matter of practice I normally start mine up at least 12 hours before I depart.

One other item that I have used for over 20 years is a product called Fridge-Mate. Its a little battery powered fan that you can place inside your refrigerator. It uses 2 D cell batteries and will move the air around to help even out the temperatures within the refrigerator. You can find it at Camping World and most RV dealers who carry a decent amount of supplies. Cost is about $14.
I still use the original one and batteries will last a season.

You are really living well if your refrigerator is 30 yeasrs old and is still functioning. The longest I have had one last was 14 years. Keep it level when in use and cross your fingers. This is not a cheap replacement item.

Jack

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Old 05-02-2002, 12:16 PM   #9
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I bought my 1966 last month and was not very familar on how this type of refer works. While I was doing running gear repairs (so trailer was anything but level) I plugged in the refer to see if it worked. I heard no noise and after about an hour, assumed it was in need of repairs. Since that time I have dropped the unit on it's own tires (it's sort of level) and also discovered there are no moving parts. So I again plugged in the refer and waited for several hours. It got cold so I was pleased.

Now what I hear is that if the refer is perfectly level it may work even better? So is that what the jacks on all 4 corners helps in doing? I have found the jacks dig into the ground, so should I put boards under the jacks to maintain the levelness of the trailer?

I am used to boats. And my boat is never perfectly level. However, the refer is of 12/110volts with a compresser.

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Old 05-02-2002, 01:15 PM   #10
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jacks/ stabilizer stands

Action;

The frame should not be used for lifting the trailer. Damage will occur from putting so much stress on the frame. The trailer can only be safely raised at its specific lifting points as stated in the user manual (axle area, some are marked).

If you are refering to the little light aluminum stabilizer stands, these are only meant to be snugged up against your frame to keep the trailer from bouncing around with movement inside. They are not rated for any lifting.

It does not hurt to put a base underneath them to keep them from sinking into the ground, especially if the ground is wet. Also keeps them nice and clean.

If you trailer needs leveling it should be done by using drive on levelers to level at one of the wheels. Then put the stabilizers under the frame to hold it rigid. I have the snap together Lego kind and use 2 of them under my stabilizer stands. Got them at Wal-Mart. They came in a little carrying case.

Best Regards and Trailer Safe;

-BobbyW
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Old 05-02-2002, 02:59 PM   #11
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The product is called Lynx Levelers and as noted earlier you set them up on the low side of your trailer and run your wheels up on them. Once you are level from side to side, use the hitch jack to set the level front to back. The ideal is to set a 360 degree bubble level in the freezer compartment bottom. When you get the bubble centered then you are level side to side and front to back.

Once you get your trailer leveled you might consider purchasing and installing a level on the exterior of the trailer. That way you only do the freezer bubble trick once. I bought a Tamarak level which seems to be the one you see most on Airstreams.

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Old 05-02-2002, 03:12 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the great information! My first trip as an RV, I mean an A/S RV owner comes on May 16th and I will be getting levelers and a bubble for the refer.

There is a level on the tongue now. However I do not trust it very much, cause it is mounted in wood between the 2 frame members that make the "A" behind the coupler. And it is a very old level. The glass tubes are loose. So when I replace that level, is that a good location? In front on the frame for the exterior level?

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Old 05-02-2002, 03:34 PM   #13
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Good idea to not trust the existing level. Get leveled via the freezer technique. Then look at the existing level on the hitch and see what it says.

Technically once you use the freezer level technique, where ever you place your new level, should also be adjusted to show level and from that point will be your reference point.

For example, I first leveled my trailer using the freezer. Then I mounted my exterior level just below the front window of the trailer. The mounting was done so that the side to side bubble showed level. After the level is secured to the trailer body the front to rear bubble has a screw adjustment that moves it into the level position.

At this point your exterior level shows level on both bubbles and of course the freezer bubble shows level. From now on you can use the external level as your guide to leveling your trailer. No need to consult the freezer anymore.

Again most of the newer A/S's I have seen mount their levels under the front window. Either centered or mounted towards the streetside front (the reason being you can see the side to side bubble from your door mirror). The Tamarak's are big levels but do look good.

Jack
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Old 05-05-2002, 09:28 PM   #14
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The main reason that the Tamarak level is maounted on the front of the trailer is because if properly mounted you can view it from the tow vehicle and see if you are level right to left while parking. The reason that being level with an absorbsion refigerator is so important is because of how it works. The type with a compressor does not need to be level.

In an absobsion refer the ammonia and water mixture is heated and rises to the top ot the heat exchanger, there the gas somehow creates the cooling thru a chemical process. The water drains back down a slightly angled corkscrew of pipe to be collected in the resivior. If you are not level the water cannot drain, this will cause the system to backup and not cool. It can create enough pressure if far enough out of level to damage your cooling unit. Also if you are out of level it will not work as efficently. Left to right is not as important as front to back if your refer if mounted on the curb or road side.

I will be happy to send you a link on rv refers if you want, I need to find it.
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