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Old 10-14-2010, 08:07 AM   #15
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Just a little reminder to those that keep the trailer plugged in, make sure your battery charger is on a timer or turned off so you do not fry the batteries like I did
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:03 AM   #16
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Do I have a GFI plug to my frig in a 1966 Tradewind? Is that the same as a breaker switch?

Carol
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:06 PM   #17
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Carol, a GFI (also GFCI) plug (receptacle) has a test button (usually red) and a reset button (usually white) and is for a place where water can cause a shocking experience. I think the newest residential codes require them in bedrooms for reasons I don't understand unless someone thinks a water bed is problem. In newer trailers the bathroom and kitchen receptacles are protected.

I doubt a '66 would have any GFCI receptacles unless they were updated. I don't think our '08 has one for the fridge.

A 120 v. breaker can be turned on and off with what looks like switch. If there's a short or overload they will flip off, but the switch is not quite all the way off. Some breakers are GFCI and have the test and reset buttons, most don't.

If the breaker is GFCI it will protect the entire circuit. If a receptacle is GFCI it will protect that receptacle and every one after it in the branch circuit. The fridge circuit should only have the fridge on it and nothing else.

As GFCI's (Ground Fault Circuit Interupter) get older they tend to flip off more and more often with no reason. Then you replace them of you can't find a short.

They are to protect you when you have one foot in the toilet, one hand in the bathroom basin full of water and are using a hairdryer, although there are good reasons for it too.

With an older trailer, you have to assume someone has done electrical work on it and they may not have known what they were doing, or if they did, they may have done things somewhat differently than an electrician would.

Electrical work can be confusing and if you want to do it yourself, buy a book about it and start reading. I've been doing it for 45 years and still am learning and I am very, very careful.

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Old 10-14-2010, 02:20 PM   #18
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Thanks for the info, but now that I think of it, my frig not working would not be the result of a blown GFI or breaker switch because when I pulled the refrig plug via the outside door and plugged a tiny portable frig in, then it turned on. Guess I'll just wait for the repair guy to come check it out tomorrow.

Carol
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Old 10-14-2010, 02:35 PM   #19
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I think the thing you would need to consider the most is the fact that running the unit full time may affect the lifespan of the unit. When connected to shore power, heat is produced by an electric coil which initself will eventually fail and need to be replaced. The liquid circulating in the unit takes its wear and tear on the tubing which may eventually spring a leak. On my original SOB, my fridge lasted 14 years before the leak occured. I doubt I would have gotten half that life if that unit had been running 24 x 7.
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:34 PM   #20
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Levelness: newer fridges need not be as level as older ones. I haven't seen anything saying how level is good enough for newer ones (how new? is another question). I do know every RV book used to say it was very important, but it appears not as important now.

Since I don't like bouncing off the walls or walking like a drunk around the trailer, there's more than one reason to keep the trailer pretty level.

I wouldn't keep the fridge running because as Jack says, parts wear out. Also, is it more expensive to have an RV fridge running than a household one running? The cost of wear and tear could make the difference aside from cost of electricity because RV fridges cost a lot more than small household ones.

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Old 10-14-2010, 04:42 PM   #21
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The newer fridges are supposed to have more tolerance based on larger tubing that offsets somewhat the pooling of the liquid if you are off level. I've often heard the term that if the level of the trailer is uncomfortable for you inside, then it's bad for the fridge. I'm old school and I level my trailer as well as I did back in the early 80's. It might be overkill but that makes everything work better, cabinet doors, drains in the sink and shower, and the milk in my cereal bowl......
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:01 PM   #22
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We have a fresh Dometic, factory says, "the fridge will work at a level that is comfortable for living inside". Not so, twice we've felt comfy and have had the fridge go warm. The cool (pun intended) thing about the new ones is you shut the fridge down, defrost, leave the freezer and main door partially open overnight and you're back in business. Everyone should have a el cheapo thermometer inside.
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:21 PM   #23
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Perhaps a little paranoia, but we bring 4 gel packs and put them in the freezer in case things fail. We have a cooler too and can store things in there for a short while and it's useful when we take the truck to the supermarket for cold and frozen things.

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