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Old 07-20-2015, 08:34 PM   #1
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1974 31' Sovereign
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Replacing partition walls

I'm replacing the partition walls in my 23' safari. I've used the old ones to make luan templates scribed to match the walls where they will go. I plan to use the templates to make new partitions using 1/2" plywood. This means I won't be able to use the metal channels that the original walls went into. I'm thinking of using 1" long pieces of 1" aluminum angle and using them for cletes/brackets to attatch the partitions to the walls in inconspicuous places with rivets and screws. When I looked at a new trailer I thought I saw similar attachment method but using plastic brackets.
Any thoughts on this working?
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Old 07-20-2015, 08:39 PM   #2
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I won't get off track and ask 'why 1/2" ply' but will offer a solution. Setup a table saw and cut a 1/2" deep slot in the edge of the ply, slide the track into the slot.
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Old 07-20-2015, 08:57 PM   #3
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I thought of the slot/dado edge, using a router to dado it 1/2 deep and to thickness. Problem is that you can't get to the rivets on the wall flange with the overlap.
I'm using 1/2" plywood because the 1/4" is to flimsy for supporting anything, like tv or decent shelves. Figured 1/2" will give some thickness for support and screw bite without adding to much weight.
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:48 PM   #4
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Anybody with a newer model that can tell me how the partitions are attached?
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver View Post
I thought of the slot/dado edge, using a router to dado it 1/2 deep and to thickness. Problem is that you can't get to the rivets on the wall flange with the overlap...

I rivet the flange to the wall before installing the plywood into it. The wood moves in the slot as the shell flexes, this keeps the rivets from pulling out.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:44 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
I rivet the flange to the wall before installing the plywood into it. The wood moves in the slot as the shell flexes, this keeps the rivets from pulling out.
Originally the flange was riveted to the wall as well as to the wood partitions, would think this would prevent the wood from moving much in the slot.

I made 2 partitions today out of the 1/2 ply and I'm very happy with how they came out. Took a couple hours, went pretty quick. Jig saw, scribe, belt sander and router. Doing all on a couple saw horses on a very uneven dirt driveway or by the trailer which is 200ft from the garage. Have to use a genny for any power.
Figured out how to use the original wall mounts. Routed the 1/2" thick edge so it was 1/4" thick and in from the edge 1/2" deep, essentially making part of the edge as thick as original partition, actually a little thicker, since the original fit in the slot pretty loose. I was able to adjust the router depth so I could get the thickness so it slid in nice and snug. I routed so the overlap went on the opposite side of the rivets to the wall so I could get the rivets in. The overlap will only be visible in one place, but isn't really noticable, and unless you were really looking you wouldn't think anything of it.
After getting the partition made I put the mounting flange on and held them against the wall to get a good position then drilled and cleco'd one hole for an anchor. Then I adjusted the partition so it was plum and got some more holes and cleco's in. Then I adjusted the partition so it was square to the wall.
Have them cleco'd to the wall now and the difference in the feel and look of the walls is really nice. All straight plum and square. May trim a little off the bottoms and slide them into some 1/2" aluminum channel with a little foam on the bottom to give them a little cushion and prevent the bottoms from getting delaminated like the originals.
Plan to get the last 2 on the street/kitchen/shower side done tomorrow. Probably do the one on the curb side the next day.
I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.
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