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Chuck · 07-12-2002, 10:46 AM

I'd like to replace the missing tambour in my 73 safari. A previous owner removed most of it, and replaced it with some "fake panneling" material that runs on tracks attached to the exterior of the cabinets/couches. (they slide left-right along the tracks). A very practical replacement...but "butt ugly". (see pics @ http://home.attbi.com/~cac4/safari.htm). At the very least, I'll replace this "fake panneling" with a complimentary color, but ultimately, I'd like to put the tambour back. Problem is, he removed most of the hardware, too, and I can't picture how it is "supposed" to be in the curved overhead cabinets, or under the couch/bunks. (p-spiral under the sink is still in place, so that one just needs replacement tambour).

someone commented that "all tambour uses a p-spiral", and I don't see how you could fit that in these cabinets. I would think that the under-bed one's could be fabricated w/ a straight vertical and straight horizontal track, connected by a 90 degree curve, as is available on the "outwater.com" site. It would seem that some sort of "custom" curved piece of track would be necessary in the overhead cabinets, guiding the tambour up along the ceiling/wall that forms the back of the cabinet. Anybody got any pics of how this is supposed to look? perhaps a good verbal description?

Also: the tambour that still exists is sticky. under the oven is completely stuck. How do you lubricate these to keep them working smoothly?

thenewkid64 · 07-12-2002, 01:17 PM

Chuck,

I have some parts available that might help you. I have a few of the under couch spirals as well as a couple of door handles that attach to the tambour. PM me and we can talk $$

the sticking is usally due to one of two things. either the door is being bound by the cabinet, or the slot has gook in it. See if lifting up on the range allows you to move the door. If so you may need to reinforce the framework that the range is installed in. If it is a gook issue, you may need to dissasemble the cabinet, clean the track and trim the tambour to make sure it moves easy.

Atwateer has p-spirals and the tambor, but you will need to stain it to match the rest of the interior.

unless soneone has sprayed something in the tracks trying to make the doors move the reinforcements should fix your binding door.

Chuck · 07-12-2002, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by thenewkid64
unless soneone has sprayed something in the tracks trying to make the doors move the reinforcements should fix your binding door. [/B]

So, does this mean that "spraying something" in the tracks is a bad thing? like wd-40 or sillicone? I was thinking of graphite powder...something like that.

Ok, that might help the door under the range, but there's another one in the cabinet over the fridge...nothing heavy being supported there, as far as I can tell, and its "sticky". it works, though...this is the type that moves horizontally.

So they did use "p-spirals" on the couches...I wonder why they don't just go up and straight back across the top. I would think that would be more space-efficient than having it all spiral up at the top of the opening; that would limit clearance for stuff going in and out of the storage space.

thenewkid64 · 07-12-2002, 02:53 PM

Graphite should be ok, but somethig "Wet" would be absorbed by the tambor material and most likley swell up.

Up and over vs. a P spiral would make sense but I think it was done to conserve space. The P spirals in the couch really do not hamper the acces to under couch storage. The bins, if you have them slide in and out just fine.

As to the door over the fridge it could just be age having it's way with the ends of tambour, causing it to bind.

Repodog · 07-22-2002, 01:00 PM

I have replaced my tambour (one cabinet to go). You will need the spiral inserts. I have seen them at the Airstream dealership in Corona California. Also you might want to check with Andy at Inland RV. He has most everything else. The tambour replacement can be found at http://www.tapeease.com. Quality was good but for a few slats had rough edges and had to be cut away. That was somewhat of a pain. I had to stain to match. Each roll was $100 and I used three rolls for my 1973 Overlander. If you choose to create your own tracks, make sure you don't use a 90 degree angle or it will never make it. Note, you are probably also missing the handles for each tambour door. For the ones I was missing, I just attached a strip of tambour 90% of the length at the bottom. That gave the doors the support they needed for up and down movement. Good luck.

Rege · 11-18-2015, 07:59 PM

I just wanted to pipe up in case someone reading this thread hadn't thought of it: Check with a local custom cabinet person about getting tambour.

It's not going to be cheap, but I noticed when I went to get some boards cut that they had scrap unstained tambour in the shop. I can order through them,using their wholesale discount and not have to pay shipping.

I will have to stain to match, but I'm getting fairly good at that!

sandgrubber · 12-30-2015, 10:15 AM

I'm facing totally stuck tambour in the bathroom of a 1971 Caravel. Feeling timid about pulling the whole thing apart and dreading the possibility that the tambour has separated from the backing and is no longer sliding. Web surfing has shown that there are sources of tambour in aluminum and / or pvc. Much as I love wood, those sound like practical alternatives. Has anyone tried moving to 'modern' versions of tambour?

idroba · 12-30-2015, 11:26 AM

Also realize that the original post was from 2002.

Lumatic · 12-30-2015, 11:38 AM

Tambour works OK in the overhead cabinets which go up and down. The larger tambour that is long and goes side to side in the bathroom and galley are a PITA. IMHO you are much better off replacing the bathroom tambour with cabinet doors.