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Old 09-04-2011, 10:29 PM   #1
Road Geezer
 
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2011 27' FB Flying Cloud
San Jose , California
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Fix for Dinette Table Wobble

Ever since we bought our new AS last February, we've been irritated that the dinette table wobbles. Lean on one side and it would tip a bit, lean on the other and it would tip a bit in the opposite direction. It's really only an irritant, but the wobble's enough to spill a bit of wine out of our stemware ...

I finally hit on an simple fix that eliminated the wobble. Step-by-step, here's what to do.

1. Scribe a fine pencil line across front surface of each metal table tab that is inserted inside the slot in the fitting attached to the interior rear wall. These are the tabs that secure your table to the wall. The pencil line should align with the upper edge of the slot opening.

2. Remove the table. You don't need to remove the tabs and hardware from the table to proceed.

3. Transfer the pencil line to the back side of the tab. You'll be drilling and tapping on the back side of the tab so as not to mar the table top. Carefully drill and tap a hole in the metal tab located so that the upper edge of the hole touches the scribed pencil line.

Vertical location of the hole is important, so use a center punch to locate the hole and to help prevent your drill from wandering. If the hole is much below the line, this solution won't work. That said, however, you can compensate for a hole that is slightly lower than it should be by filing the screw head a bit less (see step 4 below). My holes were actually very slightly above the line, maybe 1/64".

I suggest that you select a fine thread, as the tab is thin and a coarse tap may not actually create threads in the tab material.

4. File the heads on two 8-32 round-head machine screws so that one edge of the screw head is flat and roughly flush with the screw threads. Looking head-on at the filed screw head, it should look like the letter "D". Cut the screw shaft so that its somewhere between 1/8 and 3/16 inch long.

5. On the front side of the tab, insert the machine screw in the threaded hole and rotate it so that the flat surface of the head is parallel with the pencil line (facing up). It should align with the pencil line, maybe be just a hair above the line.

Don't worry if in order to have the flat surface align parallel with the pencil line that the screw is just a bit loose. When the table's reinstalled, it will be tightly held in place.

6. Reinstall the table. If you've done this right, you'll find that the flat edge of the screw head jams slightly against the slot fitting and stabilizes the table. I did this about a month ago; we've used the table several times and it's steady as a rock.

I can't seem to upload a picture of the finished fix into this post. If you'd like a pic, PM me and I'll respond with a picture by email.

Hope this fix helps a few of you out there, and maybe prevents your losing some of that good wine you're all enjoying with dinner.

Paul
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:37 PM   #2
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So, I just uploaded a picture into my gallery. Go to Gallery/Member Photos/Road Geezer and double click on the image of the bracket. This should help clarify my instructions.
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:54 PM   #3
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2007 23' International CCD
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A fix for wobbly tables was sorely needed thanks Road Geezer! I had tried skid cloth to take up the slack but that would fall out when lowering the table into the bed position, the screw is a permanent fix. I like it.

Also to insert a picture in the post, scroll down and click on the manage attachments button, browse your hard drive and select file, then click the upload button. Go ahead and try it.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:01 PM   #4
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2008 27FB Wobbly Dinette Fix

So, I noticed this problem when we bought the 27FB and read through these fixes. It looked like the PO had problems with the table as there were scratches and dents on the wall near the table and the rest of the AS was immaculately maintained. Then I thought “why is the table loose in either position?” My temporary fix was to place ½ inch rod stubs in the lower catches to lift the table a little bit when in the up position but this didn’t solve the down position problem. Then it hit me. AS installers had drilled the holes for the lower brackets too low (at least on my unit). I removed the lower brackets, raised each ½ inch drilled and re-attached the brackets. Riveted the exposed holes and voila! The table is tight in both the up and down position! I have about 5 months on the fix and it’s fine so-far. Check out the pix!
Brad
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:05 PM   #5
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As A disclaimer, I'd preset your table to see how far off your brackets are before drilling. Don't rely on my measurements.
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:11 AM   #6
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Brad, I like your approach. Seems easier than mine. It would be so much simpler if AS quality control delivered in accordance with the price the company charges for the end product.

Paul
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Geezer View Post
Brad, I like your approach. Seems easier than mine. It would be so much simpler if AS quality control delivered in accordance with the price the company charges for the end product.

Paul
Paul,

Yes, as my unit is a 2008 and yours is a 2011 model and there have been quite a few mentions of table issues in the forums, you'd think that someone at JC would measure the pattern tool that they use during installation. Maybe the supplier that supplys the swing rod shortened it without telling anyone. But, like the rear bumper leak issue, they (JC) continue to replicate the mistakes.
All in all however, we are loving the AS so JC can count on us overlooking the little things and just dealing with them. I do the same for my Harley.

Brad
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Old 02-25-2012, 06:29 PM   #8
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Brad, Paul: nice pix and great descriptions - another target on my radar screen for upgrading...

Cheers,

Art
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:51 PM   #9
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I think I have a project for the weekend now. Our table wobbles to the point of near uselessness.
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:38 PM   #10
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well, that didn't work. My lower catch is in the right position for the table being in 'down' mode, so if i raise it, it's going to be suspending the table when down, which probably puts too much strain on it. I'll need to drop the upper catches, which could be a cosmetic issue. Or, i could just shim the table when it's in the 'up' position (realizing that we almost always leave it up - just now is the first time I ever lowered it).

Nothing easy is ever easy.
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