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Old 07-08-2007, 10:22 PM   #1
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What Amps???

New to this and I have a 73' Argosy 26 footer.

I have seen some campground ads that have varible Amp hookup site for varying costs. Like 30 to 50 amps is $30/nite down to 20 amps for $20/nite. One I saw even had a 15 amp site.

What kind of amps is needed for fridge and A/C??
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Old 07-08-2007, 10:35 PM   #2
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Your trailer is setup to run on a 30 amp connection. It will be plenty for AC and fridge. 20 and 15 amp connections are like the outlets in your home and will not provide enough amperage.
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Old 07-08-2007, 10:38 PM   #3
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Hi Sundance -- It's not unusual to see a motorhome with 2 or 3 air conditioners on top; those need 50 amps. Your air conditioner requires 20-22 amps at compressor startup. You should have a 30 amp hookup to run the A/C and other appliances -- this is by far the most common campground hookup.

A standard grounded 15 amp plug (using a 30A-15A adapter) is satisfactory only if you don't run the A/C -- I use it all the time in my driveway before a trip to get the fridge going, use the lights, etc. Can even run the microwave if the cord isn't too long.

Like a sign in the laser lab -- "Don't look into laser with remaining eye." Just as true -- your A/C won't last long if not enough amperage is available.
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Old 07-09-2007, 08:03 AM   #4
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What are Amps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundance
New to this and I have a 73' Argosy 26 footer.

I have seen some campground ads that have variable Amp hookup site for varying costs. Like 30 to 50 amps is $30/nite down to 20 amps for $20/nite. One I saw even had a 15 amp site.

What kind of amps is needed for fridge and A/C??
Hi Sundance;
Since no one has answer your question directly by defining it, I will try to compare it to something you can visualize such as plumbing. It goes as follows;
Voltage= Line pressure. Voltage can be DC [Direct current] or AC [Alternating current]. Direct current can be compared to constant line pressure. 12 Volt can be viewed as 12 Lbs of pressure, but it can be DC [constant] such as provided by battery which is nothing more than pressurized storage container, or AC [alternating]. Alternating current is measured in cycling rate which can vary in accordance to need. Our household cycling rate is generated at 60 Cycles [Pulses] per second at the pressure of 120 Volts. This means that the current in the wire is there at 120 Volts only sixty times per second. The other sixty times is at O volt [pressure] and in between those times, the pressure either falls or rises between those limits. European cycling rate is different. It is at 240 Volts of [pressure] and at 40 pulses[Cycles] per second. This is why we need a converter to run our equipment in Europe.

Amperage= Can be compared to Volume of flow. The bigger the pipe the higher volume of flow. The more work the piece of equipment performs, the more Volume it needs to perform such task. In this case you need bigger diameter wire [pipe] to get more flow into it. Required amperage is listed on every appliance label.

Last issue is the Resistance which is measured in OHMS. Conductivity of the wire is rated by level of nobility of the metal from which the wire is made of.
This depends on Atomic structure of given metal which is measured in ratio of free to bound electrons. Balanced Atom will have equal number of Electrons and Protons within its Atomic structure. Bound electrons are bound within the Atomic structure and cannot flow freely. Since the current is flow depended on the flow of free electrons within the wire, the bound electrons create a resistance to free flowing electrons which bombard the stationery [bound] electrons. The higher the number of bound electrons the higher Resistance within the wire. For instance;
Aluminum- has 3 bound electrons to every 10 free.
Copper- has 1 bound to every 28 free
Silver - has 1 bound to every 46 free.
Bound electrons act much as a rust or debris within the pipe.

Therefore; Volt is a unit measure in the difference between the charges, known as the unit of pressure.
Ampere- Number or Volume of Electrons moving through the conductor [wire].
OHM- Unit of Resistance that results from the collision of Protons and Electrons with bound Electrons. Much like rust and debris within the pipe can slow down the flow.I hope that explains in some way what you were asking. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
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Old 07-09-2007, 08:04 AM   #5
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This is generally not a problem with lovingly cared-for vintage rigs, but often enough we see white-sided rigs that come in with totally fried electrical plugs. Heaven knows that they would show low amperage on their inside meters with that kind of mess; you wonder how their ACs stayed alive. Anyway, I scrape all the corrosion off their plugs before plugging them in. No complaints about lacking power there. (Of course, it's not as if they need a bunch of air conditioning here; what they do need is a little heat in the mornings.)

Lynn
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:10 PM   #6
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I understand this is an old thread but I couldn't find anything else talking about this. We have a 73 argosy 26 and the only electrical cable I can find is a 20 amp three pronged house plug. Is it supposed to be 30 amp or have I just not found the 30 amp plug?
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:27 PM   #7
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Your trailer is rated at 30 amps at 120 volts. The shore power cable should be #10/3. My '74 Argosy has the shore power cable, it is stored in the trunk. It is routed thru the floor on the street side to the power panel.
It would be quite difficult to install a 20 amp plug on the end of a 10/3 cable.
First: make sure the cable has the correct rating. If so. Install a 30 amp plug. RV plugs are specific to RV's and must be wired correctly. Pay close attention to the clearly marked "black" and "white" labels on the plug.


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Old 03-31-2015, 10:15 AM   #8
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Yeah I will have to check but my plug is stored in the trunk and goes under the toilet to enter the main area on the passenger side. It has a 20 amp plug on the end, I will have to check to see if it's a replacement. How do I check the rating of a cable?
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Old 03-31-2015, 10:32 AM   #9
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The wire size, 10 gauge, is how you know that it is rated for 30 amp.
If it is 12 gauge, it is rated for 20 amp. 14 gauge is rated 15 amp.

Also, look at the main breaker in the breaker box. There will a number on the breaker itself, near the switch part, indicating the amperage of the main breaker that should match the supply wiring.

edit:
Could there be a removable 30 amp to 20 amp adapter on the end of your 30amp plug on the end of the electrical supply chord? I use one at home just to keep the battery charged.
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