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Old 05-06-2006, 11:45 AM   #15
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On my trailer, this wire was used to illuminate the light on the control panel to indicate that the trailer is plugged into mains power, 120 volt. With my new Intellipower, this cannot be used, so I capped it with a wire nut. The way this indicator was designed to function is quite sophisticated. It is not just on a spur. This link, and particularly post 20 from Inland Andy, describes this:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...r-on+indicator
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Old 05-06-2006, 11:52 AM   #16
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Battery fuse size

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Originally Posted by anholman
Bill; I just performed the same manuver as did John, I replaced my unibox. You suggested an appropiate size fuse in the battery lead. What is an appropiate size fuse for this? Thanks, Neil Holman.
Neil, logic says that it should be at least as large as the original fuse that protected the battery and converter from overloads in the Unibox. In john's photo, that looks like a 35 Amp fuse. You could go as high as 40, maybe even 50, if the 35 frequently gets taken out by turn on surges.
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Old 05-06-2006, 11:56 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by lebolewis
Neil, logic says that it should be at least as large as the original fuse that protected the battery and converter from overloads in the Unibox. In john's photo, that looks like a 35 Amp fuse. You could go as high as 40, maybe even 50, if the 35 frequently gets taken out by turn on surges.
I'm no electrician, but I think that the 35 amp fuse has a direct correlation to the fact that the Univolt has an output of 35 amps. I will be upgrading that fuse to a 45 amp fuse for my new 45 amp Iota.
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Old 05-06-2006, 06:57 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Pick
Does anyone know what the gray wire attached to the little 4 amp fuse, goes to? The other end of the fuse goes back to the rectifier bridge in the old Univolt. I suspect it may just be for the indicator light in the front control panel. I may just leave it unhooked and see what doesn't work.

I would suggest a 40 or 50 amp fuse in the battery lead.
73 service manual says "power on light". Looks to be the same arrangement as the picture.
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Old 05-06-2006, 07:18 PM   #19
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pick- yes, I believe it's for the power-on indicator light in the front panel. Just pull the fuse and see if that light goes out, when plugged in to shore power. I agree with 40 or 50 amp fuse for the battery lead. To make the power-on light work with an intellicharger, you can use an old 12-volt converter plugged into the outlet that the intellicharger plugs into, and use the old wire coming from the front panel light.
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Old 05-07-2006, 10:10 AM   #20
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Bright idea

I have decided that, like many have said, that I will salvage that front panel of my univolt and attach the output wires of my new converter to it. The fuse blocks are already there and I won't have to buy new ones, just new fuses. And I found my trailer's schematic for the univolt, here it is.
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Old 05-07-2006, 03:32 PM   #21
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Thanks Nick! That post explained a lot. My new Intellipower is in and running. I also got the Charge Wizard. The only thing that does not seem to work is the fresh water tank level guage. I may clip lead the gray wire, and see if it starts to work. Who knows, maybe a PO modified the wiring in the control panel. I mounted the old fuse board to a piece of angle iron, then mounted it in front of the Intellipower.
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Old 05-08-2006, 12:56 PM   #22
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The only thing that does not seem to work is the fresh water tank level guage. I may clip lead the gray wire, and see if it starts to work. .
Mike, I'm sure you'll enjoy the low noise from the Intellipower. I leave my trailer for 8 months at a time, with the Intellipower connected to the 120v mains. After 8 months I return, and the separators are still covered with electrolyte. What a contrast to the Univolt! One thing I noticed with the fresh water tank level indicators is that the 4 level sensors are grounds, rather than positives.
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Old 05-20-2006, 09:35 PM   #23
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Quote:
Does anyone know what the gray wire attached to the little 4 amp fuse, goes to? The other end of the fuse goes back to the rectifier bridge in the old Univolt. I suspect it may just be for the indicator light in the front control panel.
It turns on the light in the control panel if the Univolt is powered. I just removed my Univolt from my 1975 Sovereign and it took me a few minutes to figure it out. This can't be duplicated on a two-terminal converter like an Intellipower--the battery will always be on the hot buss and you wouldn't want to put in the two diodes it would take to make it work.
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Old 05-20-2006, 10:04 PM   #24
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Where can one purchase #4 and #6 Gage wire. Is it the same as I would get at Graybar i.e. a local electrical outlet. I noticed that the cabeling on my univolt is twisted coper not solid like #10 or #12.

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Old 05-21-2006, 12:00 AM   #25
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#6 twisted cable can be gotten at Home Depot in different colors. They guy that put my lugs on my cables said that he has some really fancy 6 gauge cable that can be twisted into about a 2 inch radius circle. He also builds wiring harnesses and instrumentation for Formula 1 race cars, so he knows where to get the good stuff.

I don't think it should be too hard to find 4 and 6 gauge twisted cable. Finding the really flexible stuff could be harder. If you have the opportunity, get that, I didn't and it was a bit of a hassle.
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Old 05-21-2006, 12:01 AM   #26
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By the way, I have the Iota converter in and working. I took pictures of the installation, it involved some changes to the original arrangement and I hope to have that up in a couple of days.
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