Surge and Low Voltage protector

[davidrrand]

I am thinking about upgrading my electrical protection and looking at Progressive Industries' portable and hardwired units for my FC25. Would prefer a hardwired unit like the HW30C but where would this be placed in the trailer? Has anyone used this in a late model 25 that would like to share some insights.

Thanks!

Dave

[Rocinante]

Philosophically, we prefer the portable units. This is because the single purpose in the life of this unit is to sacrifice itself to protect the trailer. It may last many years, but when it finally gets fried by some random shore power incident, I want to be able to toss it in the trash and plug in a new one, without any drama.

If you're more handy than us, or if you put that particular unit in an easily accessible location so it's no big deal to replace it, then this may not be an issue for you.

We currently own a TRC 30 amp unit (https://www.amazon.com/Technology-Re.../dp/B002OUVL6G), but will also consider a PI PT30C (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AL23TC) when the TRC unit makes its ultimate save and then has to be replaced.

[FCStreamer]

I agree with the portable approach. I got the PT50C and it has already saved me from a couple of low voltage situations.

http://www.ourflyingcloud.com/2016/0...protector.html

[Rocinante]

One more thing we do (call us belt-and-suspenders folks) is to plug one of these into an outlet in the trailer whenever we're connected to shore power. We also use it to test the shore power outlet before we connect anything to the post: https://www.amazon.com/TRC-AECM20020.../dp/B001O2SQXQ

We also have a TRC Voltage Regulator to help ensure good incoming shore power voltage (it's really a transformer that would help keep the heat pump running safely on good voltage during what would otherwise be a sag that would cause the protectors listed here to shut off incoming power). However, that device recently fried itself. Maybe some really nasty spike or something burned it out, hard to say. If we can, we'll replace the internal circuit board and put it back in service. We have a call in to TRC to see whether that's possible.

[cazual6]

I have been using this and so far so good.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[m.hony]

I have a Progressive Industries portable surge protector.
It provides peace of mind.

[Plan-B]

Personally, I use the portable version. Two reasons: first, if you have a true surge, like lightening, the PI module will save your butt. But, it is also self destructive in nature and must be sent back to mfgr. for a 'free' new surge suppressor element. Second, if you intend to use a Inveter type generator, like Honda 3000i or 2000i ( and Yamaha equivalents ) ( not your average just straight utility generator like you would buy at Lowes) you MUST disconnect the PI module from the circuit. Meaning you can't use them with out possibility of ruining your power module. And PI states this clearly in their manual and I called and they confirmed. Inverters have floating grounds and it confuses the PI modules. On the other hand, Honda and Yamaha inverters produce such clean power there is no need for a power module like PI.

PS: the PI module has saved my A/C many times this summer from brown outs. Couple of my neighbors in Stanley, ID were not so lucky. Both ordered PI modules after the fact. Expensive lesson.

[Rocinante]

BTW, if you use a TRC surge protector, here's how to tell whether the surge protection aspect of your unit is still working:

How do I know my surge protection still works?

The surge protection does not usually fail unless there is a direct lightning strike. If this happens, there would likely be other obvious damage; otherwise, the surge protection should last indefinitely. On models 34830, 34850- the SURGE (No protection when lit) LED indicator will be lit

Quoted from here: http://www.trci.net/media/165647/507...uard%20faq.pdf

[alano]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

We also have a TRC Voltage Regulator to help ensure good incoming shore power voltage (it's really a transformer that would help keep the heat pump running safely on good voltage during what would otherwise be a sag that would cause the protectors listed here to shut off incoming power). However, that device recently fried itself. Maybe some really nasty spike or something burned it out, hard to say. If we can, we'll replace the internal circuit board and put it back in service. We have a call in to TRC to see whether that's possible.

Rocinante illustrates an example why sometimes adding protection and voltage regulation can unfortunately result in a less reliable system. When you add additional components, you're introducing loss in the system which results in a small voltage drop due to the connections and internal switches inside the protection device and voltage regulator. It easy to imagine a situation where the voltage sag during compressor turn-on would trip the under-voltage indicator and be perfectly fine had there been no protection device.

I tend to view these devices like insurance and my motto is that it's usually not worth buying insurance for things you can afford to pay for yourself. Sure, there may be times when these devices save you from a costly event, but I'm willing to take my chances and pay for any damage should the unfortunate occur. I suspect I'm not the only one.

[lewster]

The last time I did a full repair from an RV power surge, it was over $10,000!!! The owner had a hard-wired TRC unit that had a key operated bypass which was activated. He certainly paid dearly for that bypass!

[alano]

Originally Posted by lewster

The last time I did a full repair from an RV power surge, it was over $10,000!!! The owner had a hard-wired TRC unit that had a key operated bypass which was activated. He certainly paid dearly for that bypass!

But we'll never know if not having the additional losses created by having the TRC unit in the first place would have resulted in $10,000 of damage.

Lew, I expect you have many war stories to tell, but I suspect there are many folks like me who don't bother with these systems and enjoy problem-free Airstreaming

[FCStreamer]

These things are insurance. You won't need them, until you do. You can go years (or forever) without an electrical surge. You can go years without an accident. Doesn't mean some insurance isn't a good idea.

The possibility of surges (or voltage drops) is relatively high. And given the high number of electrical components inside our trailers, putting one of these things on seems like prudent insurance. I've already seen two voltage drops at my permanent camp site, and this is a well respected, well built site. I would expect worse once i start travelling.

I hope to never need it, but for me its better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

[alano]

I buy insurance for things that I have to, like car insurance, and I buy insurance for things that I can't replace myself, like house insurance. But I always avoid buying insurance for appliances and things I can afford to replace myself because the insurance companies know that the failure rates are low and the total cost of repair is going to be less than the premiums they charge. They know they will profit statistically, so likewise, if I avoid these unnecessary insurance premiums, I'll too win in the long run, but get hit with an occasional repair bill.

[FCStreamer]

I can agree with that. But in the case of a surge protector, it cost me $350 for a 50 amp model. So I paid $350 to protect somewhat north of $350 worth of appliances. It was a one time expense that is not recurring, unless I get hit with a surge at which point the device is warranted for life by Progressive Industries.

Between the fridge, the two TVs, and lights, and electrical connections, the converter, the inverter, and all the other stuff that could suffer from an electrical surge, $350 is cheap insurance. YMMV.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by FCStreamer

. . .
Between the fridge, the two TVs, and lights, and electrical connections, the converter, the inverter, and all the other stuff that could suffer from an electrical surge, $350 is cheap insurance. YMMV.

Well said (and pretty obvious IMO). The 30 amp version for our FC20 was similarly cost-effective insurance in our view.

[alano]

Between the fridge, the two TVs, and lights, and electrical connections, the converter, the inverter, and all the other stuff that could suffer from an electrical surge, $350 is cheap insurance

Yep, the same argument applies for the $49 insurance they want for my new washing machine, the $64 they want for my new TV, or the $86 they want for my new laptop. Not all electrical surges or under-voltage events are going to result in a $10K bill so where do you draw the line?

I find it difficult to decide when to break my own rule, so in the last ten years of so I decided to just stick to the plan - no insurance for things I can afford to replace. There's another thread regarding the value of TPMS that I find interesting. dkottum points out that he'd rather buy good quality tires than purchasing the TPMS monitor. I too have considered adding a TPMS monitor but came to the same conclusion. I tell myself should I really be adding a system that I have to constantly monitor, setup and tear-down when I take out the RV, to identify an unlikely event that shouldn't occur very often with my Michelin LTX tires? No, but who knows, maybe a $10K event will happen soon and I'll be joining in!

[OTRA15]

Different strokes for different folks, alano, for sure!

The basic point (IMO) is to remain conscious of all the risks and rewards, and to take full personal responsibility for your choices.

Simple stuff, but the payback for inadequate insurance can be a little uncomfortable, in hindsight.

The phrase "I did not consider that possibility" is the one I hope to avoid by participating in this forum.

Good luck and Happy Trails !

[rvb]

I have the PI 30A inboard with remote digital readout for the past year and love it. I know exactly the voltage and amps coming in and it shuts off and notes errors. In the past year it has shut power off due to ground fault twice and low voltage several times at campgrounds so I feel it has paid for itself in saving my A/C. I really like being able to monitor the voltage and amperage from inside and I have it mounted next to my Trimetric meter so have I both 12v and 120v digital readouts together.

[CRH]

I have Camco Power Defender....Yeah, it's doesn't offer the best surge protection...However, recently it shut the power to my trailer due to low voltage 4 times on a hot day in a fully booked park. I felt better about my AC knowing it detected low voltage. The 150 bucks I paid for it didn't cause me to lose any sleep.

[Bill M.]

I opted for the portable. I did not want to go to the trouble and expense of hardwiring in a unit and since I have 2 trailers I can use it on both of them. I will take it to Fl for the trailer that stays on site down there and then put it in the truck for the summer travel.