Scratching my head.....

[KyMoonshine]

Ok I have a 1973 29ft International Land Yacht Ambassador with center bath and double floor plan with one fixed bed in rear....

I was running two heathers in it while I was putting things away(just moving into it) and blew a fuse under the range...its a BUSS AGU 60 32v

Well I have to go get some of these to keep on hand for sure....

So I started looking for the other fuse/breaker panels with no luck...

I have the original 1973 Airstream Service manual and it shows a "Central Control Panel" under the front couch/bed on the wall....well the only thing there is a inspection panel for 7 way...

It also shows a "120 volt distribution panel" in the back of unit on left corner.. I can not find it either..

So my question to anyone the may own or have owned one of these units is this.....

Does this Airstream have any "House type" circuit breakers for the 120 volt electrical systems? and Where in the heck are the fuse/breaker boxes?

I know its an old unit and people may have modified/moved things around...but everything in the unit seems to be OG ...right down to the original sewer hoses....unit is like a time-warp.....so it seems unlikely...

Also where do you guys find the big BUSS Fuse? and does the battery charger for battery run all the time? The battery in mine is completely dead and wont charge back up..its also just a standard car battery...I always thought deep cycle boat batteries were suppose to be used....

Please thank you for any help...Im stumped....

[Jammer]

The fuses are readily available on line. A search on "buss agu" will turn up many hits of which this is the first:

AGU Automotive Fuses, Buss

Type agu fuses are intended for 12v dc applications and shouldn't be carrying 120 volt power.

Many of the older trailers only had a safety switch with one or two fuses near the power inlet but as you point out most have had some electrical "improvements" over the years so it's hard to say what you might have.

[funkill]

Originally Posted by KyMoonshine

Ok I have a 1973 29ft International Land Yacht Ambassador with center bath and double floor plan with one fixed bed in rear....

I was running two heathers in it while I was putting things away(just moving into it) and blew a fuse under the range...its a BUSS AGU 60 32v

Two portable electric heaters is probably too much. Mine blows a breaker if I (accidentally) use any other appliance while running my portable heater

Originally Posted by KyMoonshine

Well I have to go get some of these to keep on hand for sure....

So I started looking for the other fuse/breaker panels with no luck...

I have the original 1973 Airstream Service manual and it shows a "Central Control Panel" under the front couch/bed on the wall....well the only thing there is a inspection panel for 7 way...

It also shows a "120 volt distribution panel" in the back of unit on left corner.. I can not find it either..

I have a '73 Overlander/27'. My 120 panel is located at the bottom of the streetside bathroom cabinet - course, mine is a rear bath. So, check your closets in the rear. Mine has 2 circuit breakers - one trips whenever I operate too many 120v things at a time. It's likely a circuit breaker that tripped vs a 12v fuse.

Originally Posted by KyMoonshine

So my question to anyone the may own or have owned one of these units is this.....

Does this Airstream have any "House type" circuit breakers for the 120 volt electrical systems? and Where in the heck are the fuse/breaker boxes?

I know its an old unit and people may have modified/moved things around...but everything in the unit seems to be OG ...right down to the original sewer hoses....unit is like a time-warp.....so it seems unlikely...

Also where do you guys find the big BUSS Fuse? and does the battery charger for battery run all the time? The battery in mine is completely dead and wont charge back up..its also just a standard car battery...I always thought deep cycle boat batteries were suppose to be used....

You should have deep cell battery. If yours won't recharge, it may be damaged. How are you attempting to charge it? What kind of charger are you referring to? Your trailer should have had a converter, Univolt. It should run if it is still operable, but many 30+ yr old ones have kicked the bucket. The PO of my trailer had removed the Univolt and replaced it with a standard auto battery charger.

Originally Posted by KyMoonshine

Please thank you for any help...Im stumped....

Laura

[garry]

AGU 60A is more common in boating and should be available at marine supplies.

You should have a 120V load center for the high voltage side somewhere with the main breaker at 30AMP.

Mine is in the bath closet (rear bath model) not sure where yours is but I bet you do have one.

[driftless]

My copy of the 1973 Service Manual 120V wiring diagram does not show any circuit panel for the 29' International. It shows the power cord entering the trailer, a blank, unlabelled square which usually indicates either a control panel or appliance, and two circuits exiting the box which would be located at the street side rear corner of the trailer. One of the circuits is for the AC (which also isn't labelled) the other for the outlets and Univolt. If there is a 120V fuse or breaker panel, I would think it would be very near the entry point of the power cord to the trailer.

[KyMoonshine]

Thanks guys(and Gals) for the info...I found a small breaker box in the rear inside nightstand that has two 20 amp breakers in it......

And inside the univolt are a bunch of glass automotive fuses that I have no clue what they all do...I guess I was assuming this old Airstream was like my newer motorhome that had a breaker panel with a few breakers in it...

So I'm still stumped what the BUSS AGU 60 32v fuse that was blown is for? its mounted on a board in front of the "Univolt" I replaced it with a new fuse(My neighborhood Carquest had them)but haven't noticed anything else that may be working now....

[TG Twinkie]

Don't know what the capacity of your old univolt is but the one in my Argosy has 30 amp fuse for the charge line to the battery and it also has a 30 amp fuse on the negative ground/common side of the battery. Two wires coming of the battery and both have fuses.
This won't be the problem with your space heaters though. If they are 1500 watt space heaters, you will not be able to run them both on the same 120 volt AC circuit in the trailer.
The small fuses in your univolt supply power to individual circuits like lights, furnace and refer.
First go thru your trailer and turn 12 volt lights on. Then go back to the univolt and start by pulling one fuse at a time until the lights go out. Making a note of which lights if not all go out.
Then start the blower on your furnace and pull fuses until the blower goes off.
You get the idea I'm sure.

[funkill]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Don't know what the capacity of your old univolt is but the one in my Argosy has 30 amp fuse for the charge line to the battery and it also has a 30 amp fuse on the negative ground/common side of the battery. Two wires coming of the battery and both have fuses.
This won't be the problem with your space heaters though. If they are 1500 watt space heaters, you will not be able to run them both on the same 120 volt AC circuit in the trailer.
The small fuses in your univolt supply power to individual circuits like lights, furnace and refer.
First go thru your trailer and turn 12 volt lights on. Then go back to the univolt and start by pulling one fuse at a time until the lights go out. Making a note of which lights if not all go out.
Then start the blower on your furnace and pull fuses until the blower goes off.
You get the idea I'm sure.

BEFORE you use your furnace, make sure (1) it is not one of the 70's recall units and (2) it has been cleaned internally to remove debris and flying insect, i.e. wasp & mud dauber, nests. To find the recall numbers, SEARCH this forum - there are several threads that explains the recall nad how to service the inside to remove nests.

Laura

[raebaker06]

The ubiquitous UNIVOLT
It is as simple a device as you can get. They do not just quit. If the transformer should go then perhaps your trailer burned up. The most trouble lies in (for low voltage) the AC CAPACITOR is defective and needs replacement. The transformer is a 6Volt voltage double circuit. to give you the 12 plus volts. The other things are the Diode to prevent discharge from the car battery, and the rectifier diodes. these are all part of the doubler circuit. A pulsing 13.6 volts .
The unit needs your battery to filter the current to smooth DC.
This unit should not over charge your battery . As the battery voltage rises it limits the dc input and thus no over charge. The biggest problem is its location (as in many Airstream things) and buzz. the lamination react to the AC.
A truely simple and trouble free device.

Rae

[KyMoonshine]

Thanks again for the info..I purchased a new deep cycle battery and it seems to slowly be bringing it up to par.....
I love this unit.....

[raebaker06]

When the winter gives up and I can go out to the trailer I will be removing the UNIVOLT
I will then reverse engineer it and post a schematic diagramme and the theory of the way it works for those who would like that

[Aage]

Originally Posted by raebaker06

When the winter gives up and I can go out to the trailer I will be removing the UNIVOLT
I will then reverse engineer it and post a schematic diagramme and the theory of the way it works for those who would like that

I for one would appreciate that. I have a use for a stable 12V power supply, and although I'm taking the Univolt out of my TT, it will still be used.

Looking forward to getting your drawing.