Powering small AC device from DC sourch

[rocco52]

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2015 25FB that has no DC Power Port anywhere (Dumb!). I have a small AC device (CPAP) that has very little current draw. Using the built in 1000W converter seems like it would drain the batteries in no time while boondocking. I have a small converter designed to plug into a standard DC Power Port that is for charging small AC devices. It would use significantly less battery power to run. Has anyone found a spot with access to DC that I could install a DC Power Port in the bedroom? Thank you all in advance!

[alano]

Have you tried dropping one of the speakers to see if you can access the 12 V wiring to the LED lights? In my classic I was able to access the 12 V wiring and install additional USB sockets, but you could as easily install a cigarette lighter receptacle.

[markdoane]

You might be worse off using a smaller and less efficient inverter than using the larger built in one that came in your trailer.
Or it could be just as bad. Inverter efficiency varies from 50% to 92% - hard to tell which would be more efficient without testing.

[rocco52]

Thanks for the tip! I hadn't thought of the LED lights. There is one directly above my corner of the bed on the bottom of the overhead storage.

[tomsos]

For whatever it's worth, I had a 2010 25' FB Flying Cloud in which I needed to install a CPAP. I found 12V on a panel in storage just beneath the head of the bed, also accessible from the outside storage door.

[mrdfred]

I have added a 12v DC outlet by tapping into the wires for the reading lights. BTW, you can get a DC plug for your CPAP device, which will eliminate the need for any conversions and use less power. (Respironics Shielded DC Cord for System One 60 Series CPAP BIPAP AUTO Car Truck Auto RV). I use this for my CPAP.

[GammaDog]

Our 2014 Eddie Bauer is (like all EBs) a front bedroom. The converter and 120v panel are both under the bed. I had an open 12v fuse slot in my converter, so I ran a 3' length of 10 ga wire and cut a hole through the bed stand to add an additional 12 volt receptical 6" above the floor near the head of the bed on the side facing the bathroom (rear) of the trailer. I chose a receptical that had one old style cigarette lighter outlet and two USB ports. Since that is the boss's side of the bed it is most often used to charge her i-products (-phone and -pad) and to run her desktop model Fantastic Fan. A 10amp blade fuse protects that circuit.

Assuming your converter is in the same spot, you could do the same, or (for a modest installation fee) have an RV shop do it for you. It really isn't much work and could be added to an existing circuit if you don't have an open slot.

I have not measured the draw, but I think it would be way less demanding on your batteries than having the inverter running all night.

[ChuckFeldt]

Two things,
1, you might want to check the amperage draw on the cpap machine to ensure your inverter adaptor is sufficient. The other poster about the 12v wiring might be the best way.
2, the wiring on the lamp circuit with 10amp fuse might not be sufficient for cpap and or inverter. Wire to small, fuse light.
3, If your 25FB is like my 27FB, then all the electric stuff is in the area at the front of the trailer and hatch. Do a custom 12v receptacle wired direct to the battery leads, with proper wire gauge and fuse size to pose the cpap.
Lastly, draw matters so all this trouble might still discharge your batteries overnight. Good luck

[lewster]

The feed wires that Airstream uses for all of their lighting is a minimum 12AWG. One can easily remove a light fixture from a spot light and tap into these wires, as they are hot all the time since they each have an independent switch. You will find plenty of room in the false wire way that is between the bottom of these cabinets and the interior floor of same.

I would use 12AWG for any 12VDC connection and be sure that your DC socket is also rated for 20 amps (the capacity of the 12AWG wire). Even though these lighting wires are fused at the DC fuse block, I would include an additional 15 amp fuse for any DC outlet circuit that you add. Airstream has, over the last few years, de-rated their fuses to 15 amps from 20 amps in their fuse block, even though they still use 12AWG wire. This is probably due to the voltage drop potential of their long wire runs.

Remember, you are fusing to protect the wire, not the device……….

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by rocco52

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2015 25FB that has no DC Power Port anywhere (Dumb!). I have a small AC device (CPAP) that has very little current draw. Using the built in 1000W converter seems like it would drain the batteries in no time while boondocking. I have a small converter designed to plug into a standard DC Power Port that is for charging small AC devices. It would use significantly less battery power to run. Has anyone found a spot with access to DC that I could install a DC Power Port in the bedroom? Thank you all in advance!

Be sure you understand the draw of the CPAP. Some of them have heaters and use quite a bit of power. Running one of those off batteries could be difficult.

Well made modern inverters have very little idle current draw and so there might not be as much benefit as you think to switching to a smaller one.

[Tan Son Nhut]

Ed, I have a 2014 25' FC.
Next to the Blue Ray, I have a cigarette lighter fixture where I plug in the 12V extension cord from West Marine. Do you have a 12V receptacle next to your Blue Ray??
Bob Beggan
(Tan Son Nhut)

[Tan Son Nhut]

Originally Posted by rocco52

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2015 25FB that has no DC Power Port anywhere (Dumb!). I have a small AC device (CPAP) that has very little current draw. Using the built in 1000W converter seems like it would drain the batteries in no time while boondocking. I have a small converter designed to plug into a standard DC Power Port that is for charging small AC devices. It would use significantly less battery power to run. Has anyone found a sporum postot with access to DC that I could install a DC Power Port in the bedroom? Thank you all in advance!

Ed,
look at my message at the end of this forum
Bob Beggan
(Tan Son Nhut)

[guskmg]

You can use your CPAP without heater and moisture. You will get use to it and the current draw is about 3 amps @ 12 volts DC. I have done it for years. I learned to do it years ago flying high altitude on constant oxygen where moisture would freeze if present. The moisture and heater are comfort items, but do not improve the CPAP
performance.
guskmg

[rocco52]

You guys have been a great help! I had not thought of making a connecion under the mattress where all of the electronics are. That would be fairly simple. I read the manual on my new ResMed CPAP and heating and humidifying can both be turned off. Thank you all very much!

Ed

[rocco52]

Tan Son,

Your post about the DC plug by the DVD player got me thinking. On. My AS they replaced it with a round USB plug with two ports. There are two of these in the bedroom on the front of the worlds smallest night stand. I found that they are 12 Volt DC to 5 volt DC converters for charging phones etc. They are fed by heavy DC Romex from the main panel. I found DC/Cigarette plugs the same size online. A little wire crimping and I will have a DC plug right by the bed!

Thanks,
Ed

[rocco52]

I have been able to install a DC Power port in the bedroom. It was much easier than I thought because the underside of the the little shelf is open and accessible. I need to put one in the front of the AS and the ideal place is beside the DVD player in the little box built to house it as there is already DC power there for the USB charging port in the overhead storage by the dinette. The DVD player is very easy to remove being held in place by velcro pads. The opening is a bit too small for my hands. I can't figure out how the top of the box is held in place. There are no screws holding it in place on the inside or outside. Has anyone figured out how to get in there?