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Lothlorian · 08-15-2017, 05:57 AM

Here is what happened.... Miss understanding about the Amps for the plug in for my 73 overlander airstream. I was told it was 30 amps and it was not. Whatever it was there was a pop/flash and fuses were burnt. I replaced fuses and everything worked except the control panel ( Radio, Water pump, gauges all out). Furnace works, Galley ceiling lights work, and everything else on the pink wire works. So the pink wire is hot all the way to the control panel. Only the control does not work. Question.... Is there a breaker or fuse in the control panel that may have blown? What should I look for? Any informational help would be very much appreciated.

I am camping and will not be able to get wifi until later on, so I will be back checking this evening

By the way used to be on this site constantly, but have been off because I finished restoring 2 airstreams and now I am building a retirement home. So I have been busy busy busy

Brian

Lothlorian · 08-15-2017, 06:51 AM

I can't get the trailer to go up and down to get on my truck. Control panel and raising trailer out

Mattirs · 08-15-2017, 08:20 AM

There is an inline fuse for the tongue jack. Check to see if that popped.

Mollysdad · 08-15-2017, 08:29 AM

Sounds like you plugged into 240v.
The RV will only draw the amps needed, that's why you can plug a 30 amp trailer into a 50 amp service.
You should be able to use the tongue jack either by replacing the fuse or running it to a different battery.

MelGoddard · 08-15-2017, 01:39 PM

240 Volts will definately create an unhappy situation.��

HiJoeSilver · 08-15-2017, 01:52 PM

There is a glass fuse on the back of the fuse panel from my '79. It is hard wired into the panel so would take some work to replace. That said the control panel pretty much uses only 12vdc. It sounds like you had a voltage spike created by applying 240vac to the univolt or converter in its place. Good chance that all your 12vdc loads are now running off of the battery only and the univolt/converter is now dead.

uncle_bob · 08-15-2017, 02:05 PM

Hi

If the pedestal is properly wired, you can't get 240V out of the 30A plug. You can only get 120V. You can get 240V out of the 50A plug but that's not what gets hooked to a normal adapter. Needless to say this is a bit of a mystery right from the start.

240V will not make things happy. It goes into the "120V" wiring. The power jack is on the 12V side of things, after the battery. If things went far enough wrong for 240V to start blowing things *through* the battery, that's a pretty major "pop".

More or less:

120V goes into the converter (maybe a Univolt) and out comes 12V. That 12V tries to charge the battery. Getting it up to a high voltage takes a lot of amps. The converter (and fuse and breaker) can only supply just so much. If the power jack is "off" (not being moved) during the event, it will not pop a fuse, even with a voltage surge. There is no current into the jack and fuses work based on current.

Did you loose both 12V and 120V fuses?

Have you double checked all the fuses you replaced? I've had "spare" fuses turn out to be bad. Could be that I buy cheap fuses

Bob

Lothlorian · 08-15-2017, 03:01 PM

I want to thank all you for getting back with me and keep your knowledge coming forward...I have had the panel out before and I could not remember if I saw a fuse in there...where would it be? I know I have 120v and my tv and DVD are fine. I have the trailer in a barn to stay in as I build my place. I told the electrician I wanted a 30 amp and he miss understood what I wanted ( were related). I can't look at now because I am building.

HiJoeSilver · 08-15-2017, 07:11 PM

The glass fuse on my panel was sandwiched between two circuit boards. I don't know how I would fix it if I had to. There are also ic chips on the board that may have been damaged.