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Old 07-13-2015, 12:26 PM   #15
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If things are set up properly you should be able to charge at about 10A or ~100WH per hour when connected with the vehicle running.

There's a diode that is supposed to prevent reverse drain on the TV battery for the safest results, disconnect the TV at night.

Radio/Fan/Fridge Fan/LED Lights/Water Pump,Tablets/Phones ... with and solar and TV top ups you can live without Shore Power, indefinitely or beyond water capacity anyways.

I prefer this to carrying a generator and gasoline around.
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Old 07-13-2015, 12:28 PM   #16
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I use a portable PVC array that folds & can be carried like an attache case. It provides 120 watts or 8.3 amps of 12 VDC all day. I put a 12 VDC outdoor receptacle on top of the battery box. I plug the powercord into that.
Quiet recharging power & the battery is fully charged at the start of each evening.
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Old 07-13-2015, 12:43 PM   #17
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my dealer assured me that the battery was isolated. Never trusted that enough to leave the trailer connected to the TV
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Old 07-13-2015, 01:41 PM   #18
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Should not drain the TV batterys on any pickup I've had. Chevy, dodge and ford van.
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Old 07-13-2015, 02:02 PM   #19
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I seldom ever disconnect the trailer umbilical from the tow vehicle. It has never killed the battery, but I put the switch in the trailer on "store" so nothing but the propane detector and tongue jack would be connected. I don't think there is any juice going from the tow vehicle to the umbilical until the ignition switch is on.
The electric tongue jack runs faster after starting the vehicle, but that may be because the alternator is charging.
I wonder too if the tow vehicle is like my Harley- after the battery drops to a certain voltage the theft deterrent system stops working to stop draw on the battery to keep it from going dead.


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Old 07-13-2015, 03:15 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by timhortons View Post
If things are set up properly you should be able to charge at about 10A or ~100WH per hour when connected with the vehicle running.

There's a diode that is supposed to prevent reverse drain on the TV battery for the safest results, disconnect the TV at night.

Radio/Fan/Fridge Fan/LED Lights/Water Pump,Tablets/Phones ... with and solar and TV top ups you can live without Shore Power, indefinitely or beyond water capacity anyways.

I prefer this to carrying a generator and gasoline around.
If there were a diode in the 12V connection from the truck, it would have to be in the direction to prevent current flow from the trailer to the truck or the truck would be unable to supply power to the trailer. What SOME trucks have (my F150 did, my Ram does not) is a relay that supplies 12V to the trailer only when the engine is on.

Tim Hortons is correct about the 100 WH per hour, but a group 27 battery is about 100 Amp- hours so it would take 10 hours or more to fully charge it from zero or about 5 hours from 50%, which is the recommended limit for discharge.

Al
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Old 07-13-2015, 04:51 PM   #21
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Following along...
When connecting a generator, is there a difference between the street side connection vs the one on the front?
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Old 07-13-2015, 05:44 PM   #22
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Thanks all. Please know we'll be respectful of the folks around us in the camp. We're going to be part of an AS group, some of which will be running generators during the day to re-charge. The plan is , if we need to do anything, to run the truck at the same time as others run their generators. I think our Tundra makes about as much noise as a Honda E2000. Maybe we won't need it at all.

Don
Bring a long cord and plug into a friends' generator. A 2000 watt generator will easily run two Airstream converters. An hour of charging will put a lot of juice in your battery. Charging by plugging into your truck is SLOW the charging power cord is tiny and at idle your trucks alternator doesn't put out many amps.
If you don't run your furnace, you will probably last three days without charging if your batteries are in good shape.
If you like to boondock you will end up with solar and a generator. It makes life much easier.
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Old 07-13-2015, 07:33 PM   #23
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FYI-Tow w/Ford F250 & use factory installed 25 amp (easily charges 2 batteries) upfitter switch for aux battery charging and carry spare battery in bed charged full time. If you do use the available factory upfitter switch (either the 10, 15 or 25 amp citcuit) be sure to properly size wire for both ampacity and to minimize voltage drop for the distance you run to the trailer or aux batteries, and proper automotive wire type based on heat around engine, exhaust, etc
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Old 07-13-2015, 07:55 PM   #24
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Just buy a Honda EU2000i generator and never worry again. I did It's great!

See ya on the road,
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:22 PM   #25
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BTW the Ford battery charge circuit in the trailer connector is a 30 amp circuit, ample for trailer battery charging
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:27 PM   #26
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Two years ago we bought our first TT, an EB 27'. The batteries would not last the night without charging. The 40 amp wire appeared to be hot all the time. To prevent discharging the TV battery, I installed a battery isolator in our trailer, made by Samlex. It only allows the circuit to be completed when the TV charging circuit is about 13.3 v IIRC for a certain time. If it drops below a certain voltage for ? time it isolates the TV from the TT until the voltage is above the threshold as above.

We did some boon docking for several days to 2 weeks this past winter leaving the TV connected. If the batteries ran down over night, I could use the Jeep GC's remote start to charge the TT without leaving the trailer! The Jeep will run for 10 minutes on remote start before shutting down and only two remote starts allowed without going to the TV.

Had a 300w inverter that ran the batteries down. Put 2 new batteries in and disconnected the inverter. After we finally had shore power for a couple of days to charge the batteries, we had no problems boon docking for the next 6 weeks of our trip keeping the batteries charged.

To replace the 300w inverter, bought a couple of 70 aux inverters from Walmart for the television and to charge our computers.

Hope this helps, John
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:50 PM   #27
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A couple of things that weren't mentioned in my previous post.

The Samlex isolator will charge the TV battery if you have solar or shore powerand the TT battery voltage is above the threshold level.

If you have a MOHO with an aux battery, it can be wired to boost the main if it is too low to start the MOHO. Think it is good for about 400 amp load when boosting.

Cheers, John
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Old 07-18-2015, 04:16 PM   #28
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A typical house battery is about 100 amp-hours. Your truck if you are lucky can maybe put out 10 amps. Even if you get 13 volts at the house battery from your truck, you will likely only get about 5 amps of charging due to the small lines from the truck to the trailer. That means you need to run the truck 20 hours to recharge the battery from dead at 12.4 volts. Just not practical...been there ..tried that! Solar panel is the best solution if you do a lot of hobo camping.
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