Termites ate everything. Including the floor. I refuse a shell off!

[twolanehwy]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

The more I think about it, I think it did cost me about $1,250....

I wanted to go with something cheaper, and even ordered one and sent it back before spending the big bucks...

The furnace is one of the most expensive things in my build, second to my flooring only.

It was expensive, but after more than two years in I am very satisfied with it. My only regret is not putting it on the drivers side of the trailer.

Brevi tempore!

Glad to hear an unbiased positive opinion. It will be where I put my largest single expense as well.

Now I gotta ask "why drivers side"?

[Dingo Girl]

Originally Posted by CraigFulton

Well I've got the 3/16" rivets and elevator bolts on the way from VTS. I have the sheet metal on its way from Air. Now I just need to buy some good sheet metal cutting tools, 3/4" marine ply, and foam board insulation. I hope to have this done in a weekend. New floor and belly pan. I'll paint the frame over the next couple of weeks after work. When the belly pan is off I'll paint the bottom of the frame. We'll see what happens! Wiring will be next. I already have the materials and panel ready.

I wish mine was done in a weekend!

[J. Morgan]

No reason regarding the heater itself, but it I think it might have worked better for my floor plan, and then I think maybe not...

On second thought, where it is is best.


Brevi tempore!

[CraigFulton]

You guys are hijacking my thread with the heater! haha

Made some progress on the now shell off. Belly pan comes off tonight.

[Trons4u]

Wow, you've been busy. You have a crew helping you

[CraigFulton]

One guy helped me get the panels off. But I just removed the belly pan myself in 2 hours! Haha. So easy. Now I have to clean and paint the frame, weld in the new rear cross member, and lift this shell. My plans on the lift are to screw in 3 2x6 beans side to side with 2x4 coming off diagonally on each side. Then use a post Jack to lift it from the ceiling and then install a 4x4 post on each end screwed to the 2x6 supports. Install floor. Lower it back down. I can then sleep at night. Haha

It only took 3 hours to get that interior out. I think I'm going to pressure clean it all before I start.

[CraigFulton]

Any recommendations on floor wood? The 5/8" marine ply is $97 a sheet from a lumber yard special order. Home Depot has 1/2 and 3/4 in stock for under $50. Or do I just use standard ply??

[cwf]

I would use the special order then I would epoxy treat it all before cutting a single piece then epoxy treat all cut edges.

Or is Marine synthetic board.

[CraigFulton]

Leaning towards the 3/4 and I'll epoxy the cut edges.

[Wolfe]

I think i would take trailer back and the sleze bag to court for a refund,it may be past that point.

[CraigFulton]

Haha. I was going to do all this work anyway. I like taking things apart and putting them back together. I didn't pay much for it anyway.

[cwf]

Check a sample.. Marine Applications

[cwf]

Oh... Inspect wiring while you are that deep.

[cwf]

Oh.. Checking for leaks!!! Termite may get water from the ground where you live, but wood can rot if repeatedly wet. This is common AS failure.

Some folks are also having foam "sprayed" on inside to help seal and better insulate. Hey, it does get warm in FL and the shell will beat nicely in the sun.

[HiJoeSilver]

Originally Posted by CraigFulton

Leaning towards the 3/4 and I'll epoxy the cut edges.

Id try to match the original thickness a close as possible, otherwise you may have trouble getting it under the chanel in the front where the frame is a fixed spot and the shell is fixed by the rivets in the hold down plate. Good plywood from HD or LWS is ok, I'd try to get at least A grade on one side since it'll be smoother for follow on flooring application.

[CraigFulton]

Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver

Id try to match the original thickness a close as possible, otherwise you may have trouble getting it under the chanel in the front where the frame is a fixed spot and the shell is fixed by the rivets in the hold down plate. Good plywood from HD or LWS is ok, I'd try to get at least A grade on one side since it'll be smoother for follow on flooring application.

Yep. I see now. It's gonna have to be 5/8". I just measured at the hold down plate. Thanks for that!!

[CraigFulton]

Originally Posted by cwf

Oh... Inspect wiring while you are that deep.

Replacing all the wiring. Sealing entire shell from the inside with Trempro and all the rivets front he outside with the Captain Tulleys crack cure. It will be dry as a bone for a long time.

[HiJoeSilver]

If you're going to be replacing wiring, get a ratcheting crimper, it creates MUCH better crimps than the little dimpler incorporated into all in one wire cutter stripper crimper tools.
Here's one I just bought way to far into the process, wish I had bought it long ago, and well worth the money for the comfort.
Titan 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper - - Amazon.com

If you're replacing 120v try to use stranded, you can find it on line for decent price. Again a little extra cost for comfort that it wont break like solid might.
One thing I wish I did is create a terminal station or something like it for all the rear light wiring to join, one wire in(for each function) and then nice and clean lines out from there. I'd have put it somewhere where it would be easily accessible from the interior so if there was an issue it would be easy to fix down the road without removing interior skins, etc...
Just passing on one of my wish I had's.

[CraigFulton]

I like that crimper!i plan to use the stranded wire everywhere. Great tip on the trailer lighting. I'm going to do that!

[cwf]

Use BlueSea components (marine grade stuff) and leave a "little" slack in case you need to redo any connections. Better than pulling wall off to fix.

Lewster is a member on here and is a wonderful resource for electrical and solar.