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Old 02-02-2016, 10:42 AM   #15
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water? flashing

Neat thread and ideas... I have two questions:

1) What prevents water from following the blue line? The factory extended the banana wraps along the inside of the outer skin as a flashing (red line).

2) This would require you extend your banana wraps by one vertical inch and one horizontal inch (so going from 5" to 7"). I've yet to come up with an easy solution to make custom corner banana wraps that are higher than stock. Any ideas?

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Old 02-02-2016, 11:06 AM   #16
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another good question. the water path you point out is my main concern with the design. i'm hoping that a good sealant would do the trick if placed between the new banana skin and the new profile. for good measure i'd also consider caulking the seam at the bottom of the exterior skin.

i should also note that i plan to replace my subfloor with something like CoosaBoard which doesn't rot, but a good redesign wouldn't depend on fancy materials like that.

in terms of the new wraps, i'll see if i can illustrate my idea better. i think i have a solution that uses well tailored sheet stock with rivets.
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Old 02-02-2016, 11:07 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyclad View Post
btw, i don't mean to get off-topic, but while we're talking about structure... around the ceiling curve there seem to be several ribs running fore-aft that are not riveted to the exterior skin (pictured below). do you know what those are for? seems like the interior skin makes them redundant. can they be removed and discarded?
I had some like this in my trailer as well. They appear to be there just to help maintain the separation of the interior and exterior skins, and probably also to firm up the interior in places where you have a large panel that otherwise will get wavy looking without something to firm it up. I left them where they were.
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Old 02-02-2016, 11:09 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Belegedhel View Post
I had some like this in my trailer as well. They appear to be there just to help maintain the separation of the interior and exterior skins, and probably also to firm up the interior in places where you have a large panel that otherwise will get wavy looking without something to firm it up. I left them where they were.
ok thanks! i was thinking maybe they were just there to hold the insulation and wiring in while the interior skins went on.
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:16 PM   #19
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Making progress on the re-engineered connection....

Spacers welded to each outrigger:

New stretched outriggers compared to old outrigger:
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:20 PM   #20
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Looking good!
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:26 AM   #21
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wondering about how best to seal my re-engineered connection. should i be using putty tape between parts that are getting riveted together? i'm afraid the extra thickness and malleability of the putty tape will weaken the connection, but also want to seal everything as best i can. i'd love some suggestions.

thanks and a more complete update soon...
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:55 AM   #22
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Vulcum between pieces and on each rivet.
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Old 03-15-2016, 11:57 AM   #23
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thanks for the reply!

any tips on how to keep the rivet set and bucking bar from getting covered in Vulcum?
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:56 PM   #24
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We wear latex gloves and grab your tools with throw away paper towels.
Keep acetone around with towels to keep everything clean.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:13 AM   #25
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In the Globe Traveler project I also thought through how to make a better connection that you describe! My solution was to build a all Aluminum chassis with an aluminum frame and aluminum floor to once and for solve the rot problem. The frame and floor are both welded and Huck riveted together to form a very strong system. The outer edges of the floor are raped and secured with a Modified "y" channel that is riveted in place so that the belly pan skin and side skins and the floor all become one... The result solves many issues and is very strong.
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Old 03-17-2016, 07:53 AM   #26
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Wow vinstream that is next level! At what point does a "restoration" become a "reproduction"? Not that that matters at all. Looks like you built an airstream from the ground up! VERY impressed!
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:19 PM   #27
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Impressive. What did you use for your aluminum floor?
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:01 PM   #28
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I've been trying to find a way to deal with these issues also. I have a 57 Overlander single axle. I'm ready to lift once the weather gets a little dryer. I think my answer is a combination of the above and a few other things.

First: With the interior gutted I'm going to create a template of the floor out to the edge of the C channel. See Frank's Trailer Works http://frankstrailerworksblog.blogsp...-this-tip.html

Next use that template to create the outside support like Darkspeed (1 1/2" square tubing) and weld it to the frame. My hope is this will make sure I maintain the same "footprint" when resetting the body, with the bonus of separating the plywood floor from this joint.

While the body is off use my flange tool to create the off set to the bottom of the exterior panels that go below the existing C Channel. This allows the panels of the belly pan to slide in between the exterior panels and the new tubing support. (see diagram) I know I can't do this everywhere. I've pulled some of the belly pan off. Some panels don't go below the C Channel. The end caps screw into the plywood so I could attach those to the tubing support. On those panels that don't extend below the C Channel I could add a Z channel between the exterior panel and the C Channel to get the length.


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I would blind rivet the top of the belly panels to the new tubing support so either panel can be removed without affecting the adjacent panel.


The downside I see is having to wait and attach the new belly panels after all this and not when I can have the frame upside down.

Welcome your thoughts on this:
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