Patching the rear subfloor on '77 Argosy 28

[StephSH]

We purchased a 1977 Argosy 28 at the start of July, and have been doing some work on it; cleaning, updating the converter & fuse box, etc.

We’ve been reading up on “how to” patch the floor for weeks, and thought we had the gist of it down, but we’ve found a post stating that we should level the end of the trailer at 8 points on the end at the least.

Now we are wondering what else we’ve missed??

We thought we could just remove the rotted portions of the subfloor and the lower interior skins, replace the insulation under the subfloor and in the interior walls, and put in new ¾” marine plywood where the holes are and we could finally go camping, but now we’ve found out we have to do the leveling (which makes absolute sense until you realize we have the trailer sitting on uneven ground while we’re working on it).

We aren’t replacing entire sheets of subfloor, we are probably going to replace 2-3 feet across the back, and a foot/18” along the curbside in the rear bedroom.
We’ll work on the center and front subfloor next year, but this year we just want to do what we can to patch the back and get camping.

Do we really need to level the back and jack it up/down just to replace two feet of floor? If so, what else are we missing that needs to be done??

Thanks
Steph

[HiJoeSilver]

"Do we really need to level the back and jack it up/down just to replace two feet of floor? If so, what else are we missing that needs to be done??"

Overkill in my opinion. Level the trailer as close as possible. When you remove bolts between shell and frame the frame will sag a little. But since you're not talking the shell off the holes will easily line back up. When you go to tighten the back up, you'll have to jack up the frame a little to get it tight to get the bolts tight. I did a full shell off on very unlevel ground. Worked fine for me.

[StephSH]

Thanks for the response Joe, most of the posts & videos we've seen dont mention it at all, so it really caught us off guard.