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Old 07-12-2006, 05:31 PM   #1
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More sub-floor questions

replacing sub-floor without good pattern/flashing the edge
I am FINALLY to the point of replacing sub-floor this week, have two questions:

(1) Most of my original sub-floor did NOT come out intact (some parts I thought might never come out at all!), and in many areas the perimeter was totally rotted away. I have read in some places that the subfloor is supposed to extend about 1/4" past the outriggers. Does that seem right to those of you who've done a sub-floor replacement? Not in the front where the little short outriggers are, but everywhere else?

(2) Has anyone come up with a good detail for flashing the threshhold and the places fore and aft where the frame pierces the skin right next to subfloor edge?

I hope to get some pix up soon. Thanks to everyone for your continued advice and support!
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Old 07-12-2006, 05:53 PM   #2
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I'd like to see a picture of what you're referring to when you say "the frame pierces the skin"... that sounds bad.
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Old 07-13-2006, 01:05 AM   #3
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Hi,

I am totally confused when it comes to the real mechanics of this stuff... however, my husband replaced our floor and has a lot of pictures and discussion on his thread. You might take a look if it will give you some help/ideas. Here is his thread... go to about post # 70
http://www.airforums.com/forum...i-17925-5.html

Good luck! Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)
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Old 07-13-2006, 09:07 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
I'd like to see a picture of what you're referring to when you say "the frame pierces the skin"... that sounds bad.
Ankornuta,

I'm simply talking about the front and rear of every Airstream, where the main frame rails come out thru the belly skin. These holes in the belly skin that have to be cut for the frame rails are right at the edge of the plywood subfloor, but it seems all that Airstream (or anyone) does to try to prevent water from entering here is to goop in a bunch of sealant.

On a house, you would use a thin piece of metal as flashing, to redirect the water, as well as sealant where appropriate. I'm just wondering if anyone has tried anything besides coating the wood and gooping in sealant.

One person has told me he puts a thin piece of aluminum around the floor edge at the threshold and runs it back to the frame rails and over to the outriggers, I think I will try that. But I'm still wondering how to improve the water infiltration problem in front & back.
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Old 07-13-2006, 11:20 AM   #5
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The 1/4 inch sounds about right but I doubt it was done with that kind of precision. Do you know the radius for your corner arc's? The "MAJOR" issue is the door opening. Getting the floor / skin fit right gets the door right. You arre better off with a floor 1/8 small in the arc than even 1/32 of big. It's really a tight fit with the belly pan on the corner.

For the rail / floor issue there are many things to try. Using Epoxy on that section of flooring edge and sealing (esp in the front) with vulken should do well.

I found the tail alot harder to get right than the front. The frame in the front is held at a good level by the jack. The tail however is down without being attached to the floor and shell. The shell sits right on the frame rail in the back. Other's will say if their's was different. The sloping back added levels of frustration you don't get up front.

The next one I will put bakc together in this order. Floor, Belly Pan, Shell. It is hell putting on the belly pan after the shell is in place. Do not use fiberglass insulation or any other that absorbs or holds water anywhere but esp under the floor.


Good Luck.
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Old 07-13-2006, 04:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1959newbie
Ankornuta,

I'm simply talking about the front and rear of every Airstream, where the main frame rails come out thru the belly skin. These holes in the belly skin that have to be cut for the frame rails are right at the edge of the plywood subfloor, but it seems all that Airstream (or anyone) does to try to prevent water from entering here is to goop in a bunch of sealant.
OH! I thought you were talking about the frame piercing the body skin, which of course would be a very bad sign! This is a tough area to seal as the floor is already on once the belly pan goes into place. Like Over59 mentioned, by not using fiberglass insulation under the floor, this greatly reduces the likely hood of errant water causing problems underneath.
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Old 07-13-2006, 04:45 PM   #7
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If a 59 is the same width as a 58 (which I think it is) then the width of the plywood floor should be 88"

As far as where the frame exits the belly - yeah I used a bunch of vulcem (however you spell it.....) there.

The frame can - and often does pierce the belly skin - not a biggy though

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Old 07-13-2006, 04:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
.....I found the tail alot harder to get right than the front. The frame in the front is held at a good level by the jack. The tail however is down without being attached to the floor and shell. The shell sits right on the frame rail in the back. Other's will say if their's was different. The sloping back added levels of frustration you don't get up front.

Good Luck.
59, are you saying that the dreaded "tail sag" is actually normal in this year trailer? I struggled with tail sag and finally decided to beef up the rear of the trailer. There is a small amount of "dip' or "sag" in last few feet of the trailer. In fact, I just picked up the steel from a local shop this afternoon. What I did was have them make an insert for the main rail. It is several pieces of "C" or "U" shaped steel that I will insert from the inside of the existing rail, then bolt it in place.

As far as the seal around the A-frame up front, I'm thinking similar to you. Epoxy from the inside (belly pan), Vulkem or Sikaflex on the outside. The way the '73's came out of the factory, there was only a cheap piece of plastic that covered the gaping hole around the A-frame/skin junction. Leaked like a sieve for 30 years

Jim
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