Linoleum

[prairieschooner]

I have ordered the new linoleum for our 1958 18' Traveler. The original stuff went under the cabinetry so this will require the removal of the existing cabinetry. When repalacing the Linoleum today is it standard practice to put the linoleum under the cabinetry like original construction?
Steve

[McLogger]

Are you sure you need to remove the cabinetry??

To answer your question;
I do not know about in campers but when you install it in a house you do not put it under the cabinetry and I would not do that even if some one said to, just think if you want to do this again in the future it sounds like you would have the same problem?? Usually a piece of trim is put down to keep the edges from curling also you really don't have to glue that stuff down. Again this makes it a pain for future removal.

[Wardinbb]

PirateSteve,

You can always do whatever you want. Typically, with a remodel, rehab or restoration, the unit gets gutted and new flooring is installed 'wall to wall'.
If it doesn't bother you to open a cabinet and see the old floor, then just replace the visual areas. However, you have to remove the old tile and finish/prep the area. If a tile extends under a cabinet, good luck with not removing it to get to the tile. Ain't that the way it is!
I gutted mine but was anxious to get the thing 'operational'. Also, the local floor people only had sheet linoleum but would not install in a trailer! Couldn't get any tile and even if I could, the one and only installer only wanted 3x the material cost/sf to install it.
So by default and the desire to press ahead, my cabinetry is sitting on the plywood deck and I'm tabling the floor cover issue until something good comes along.
But my question is, where did you find a linoleum supplier in your neck of the woods?
Ed

[prairieschooner]

Look at Home Depot or Lowes. They have Armstrong Linoleum in 12" squares. I was able to special oreder something that looks about the same color as was original (or at least under the cabinets). You will need to find someone that is willing to help (get off their duff). I tried the Home Depot in Beaumont 1st but couldn't get the help and had to go into Hemet to get someone who would go the extra steps to order the stuff. The squares ordered are the Armstrong Imperial Excelon a comercial Linoleum. Here is a link;
http://www.armstrong.com/commfloorin...ct&item_id=381

I have removed the cabinetry and will seal and treat the plywood subfloor with West Systems Epoxy. I am wanting to do the curb side first and then the street side in order to get operational because of the new cabinetrythat will be needed. We are going to go back real close to original but I won't worry about the squares being a little larger. I will be installing the tiles myself.
I was planning on installing the Linoelum under the cabinets because I want to see the same thing everywhere. I was just wanting to know what others are doing.

[Jim Clark]

Originally Posted by piratesteve

I have ordered the new linoleum for our 1958 18' Traveler. The original stuff went under the cabinetry so this will require the removal of the existing cabinetry. When repalacing the Linoleum today is it standard practice to put the linoleum under the cabinetry like original construction?
Steve

My 2005 Safari is built with the linoleum under the cabinetry. I did not remove the cabinetry from my 68 GT when I changed the floor covering out I installed Pergo.

Jim

[Wardinbb]

Thanks for the link, most helpful. No wonder you found this stuff so easily. It's VINYL not linoleum. I, unfortunately, have given up on being the purist, getting linoleum in a 9" tile format has proved to be complicated with adverse logistics. You'll have to use your own judgement as to whether the 12" tile is going to work visually for your coach. IMHO the scale at the original 9" pattern was optimum. Others here on the Forum have cut the product down to get back to the original pattern. At least this Armstrong stuff is similar to linoleum as the composition is consistant through the thickness, as opposed to other vinyl flooring products that are just a pattern layer, of various thickness, on a backing.
I've ordered a ton of samples from the Armstrong website and will look forward to resolving my floor finish fiasco. The aspect that this stuff comes in a 3/32" thickness is a bonus for me. Post a PIC of your new vintage floor when you're done!
Thanks,
Ed

[Tom Nugler]

The first thing we did when we got the GlobeTrotter was to replace the old cracked tile. It also went under the cabinets and is visible when some of the doors are opened.
Our solution was to strip out the old and apply the self stick tiles to the subfloor after cleaning/repairing the plywood.
After the bulk of the tiles were done whatever screws were holding down the cabinet fronts were removed, the cabinets levered up with a pry bar just enough to slip the tile underneath the frames.
Put new stainless screws in the existing holes and finished up any tiles back to the walls.
This was so easy it lead me to the mistaken idea that restoring an Airstream would be a piece of cake.

Tom.

[Frank S]

Hi--One of the things to consider regarding vinyl or linoleum tiles is that over time they will separate, leaving gaps. When the tiles get very hot as a result of closed up storage in the sun, they expand. When cooler weather comes they contract, leaving gaps. This does not happen immediately, but will over a period of five years or more.--Frank S

[prairieschooner]

After much consideration from all of those with input, I have a new plan. I am replacing the linoleum in the 12"X12" squares under the furniture and then I will be laying an engineered hardwood floor in the walkways and isleways.
My thought is that this should satisfy the traditionalist (for which I am one) and up-grade the Traveler to this century and help make it more "homey" when traveling.
Steve

[InsideOut]

re invented

Originally Posted by Wardinbb

It's VINYL not linoleum. I, unfortunately, have given up on being the purist, getting linoleum in a 9" tile format has proved to be complicated with adverse logistics.

The 9"x9" was VAT (vinyl asbestos tile), not Linoleum. The current day replacement is the 12"x12" VCT (vinyl compositon tile - w/o asbestos).

True linoleum is a "green" product that has been around long before vinyls are what they are today, it's been around over 100 years. It's made from linssed oil. rosen, wood, cork & limestone. It's available from several sources in both sheet & tile, Forbo Marmoleum and Armstrong Linoleum are two tof the most familiar.

We installed Forbo's sheet Marmoleum in our GT 5 years ago and love it!

Shari

[prairieschooner]

OK, OK Split hairs on this.
The original product is not available because it is un-healthy to work with.

[aversenti]

Hi all! I am new to this and came to the flooring section and thought this might be a good place to ask! I just tore up the carpet in my '78 Argosy 24'. I REALLY prefer wood floors or even laminate to carpet. The floor has no rot in it (amazing) and I am curious if I could use it as subfloor? There is a dip under the table, so it is not completely level. I am concerned about adding too much weight as my current tow vehicle has 5000 pound capacity and my current trailer is 3850, SO is it worth it "weight wise" to do this floor thing a little different? Thanks for your time!
Katy of Seattle

[prairieschooner]

Katy,
I am no expert on this but I would think that the dip could be filled with a light weight filler. Then why not use an engineered hardwood or laminate?
I found an engineered hardwood that was 5/16" thick. I will put it down with a pin nailer and a minimum of adhesive, this way I will be able to remove it at a later date.
I have already sealed the plywood with a thinned out Epoxy and I used a light weight filler with the Epoxy (West Systems thinned with Denatured Alcohol then a Low Density Filler mixed with the Epxoy to fill any voids.
I would think that the Laminate Flooring would be lighter because of the way it is made.
Steve

[3Ms75Argosy]

shouldn't be a problem with laminates, as they will bridge the dip - I can't imagine the dips too big, is it? (If so, I'd be a bit worried why).

Weight - you can go to the store and figure out how much a box of it weighs, and then figure out how many boxes you might need (i.e. square feet of it). The box should tell you how many sq feet are in it. Add it up, and there you go.

Laminates are built with particle board backing, which can get heavier. i can't see it adding 1000 pounds of weight though! Probably around 100 - 200#'s total?

That said, the carpet does weigh a bit too!

Marc

[CaddyGrn]

We replaced our old flooring (old asbestos type lineoleum tiles, I think...) when we redid the floor. We put in vinyl wall to wall. One item you might think of ~ if you remove the old flooring and then reinstall the cabinetry your screw holes and/or rivits for the wall will be slightly off. (the thickness of the old floor) It may make for reinstallation of the cabinets a little tricky. Our old floor was under the cabinets so we reinstalled everything that way. We have been happy with the vinyl so far. Muddy feet and wet boots make a bit of a mess, but it is easily cleaned up. I have throw rugs that cover most of the surface and they can be tossed in the washer. Mostly the answers will be personal preference.

Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis)

[harestream]

Hello.
I'm a bit confused when it comes to the subfloor and when to add a second floor and when to epoxy it. This is what my plan is, cause I am in a similar boat right now with our 72 Tradewind.
When is it necessary to apply a thin layer of plyboard on top of the already there floor? Only when it's warped and bumpy? I'm also planning on using Armstrong imperial tiles cut down to 9x9. my agenda was to

1. epoxy the floor thats there and replace the two areas that are below the vista views where leaks have caused some rot

2. seal that first wood floor layer with west systems epoxy - straight

3. lay down a thin plywood subfloor for the tiles to stick too, and staple gun this to the original plyboard.

4. treat the second layer of plywood perhaps with the same epoxy?

5. throw down the adhesive, and the tiles. and viola.

somebody please tell me if this is a step too many and iff im going overbeard of if there is anything that doesnt need be done, or If I'm missing something. I'm about to jump in this weekend.

Thanks.

p.s.

sorry i hope this isnt considerd hijacking. i was just a bit confused.

[markdoane]

harestream,

I don't know why you can't do it that way. The only thing I would skip is the epoxy on the second layer of plywood. I wouldn't use Luan plywood under tile.

I used 6 mil poly for a vapor barrier, instead of epoxy.

I don't know the name of the 1/4" underlayment that I used, but it wasn't Luan, it was some type of SPF material.

I used a regular primer on the underlayment, then the adhesive and the Armstrong VCT. I used the full 12x12, but I plan to overlay the visable parts with cork, so appearance isn't an issue.

Can't report on the long term durability of this method, only completed it a few months ago.

[prairieschooner]

Yes, that sounds close to what I would think!
Personally, I would use the West Epoxy thinned out with Denatured Alcohol, this turns the Epoxy to a viscosity similar to water. Apply the thinned out mixture a number of times until the Plywood will accept no more. Now you may not need another layer of Plywood. You may be able to wash this area with soap and water to remove the waxy surface that comes after the Epoxy cures. Then a light sand and off you go with the squares.
If you feel like another layer of Plywood I would prefer a Douglass Fir and then I would also prefer to laminate it to the original Plywood Floor and use Screw type Fasteners rather than staples so the there is some clamping pressure to eliminate voids.
If you chose to laminate a second layer of Plwoood then use one of the Laminating Additives with the Epoxy.
I question the Second Layer of Plywood if the First Layer can be properly repaired.
Steve

[SmokelessJoe]

Harestream:

Although the floor of my 1976 Argosy was in excellent shape I put a layer of luan down using PL flooring cement and a pneumatic stapler.

Then I used the West System epoxy, two coats, before laying MARMOLEUM linoleum wall to wall.

It made for a beautiful job.


Sergei

[dieterdog]

Hi Sergei,,, your flooring looks great,,, glad to see progress,,, dieterdog