Hole in subfloor under frig.

[CraigCam]

In the process of gutting my 1970 overlander. When I removed the original refriduator there is a 1x1 hole on the floor with a screen over it. When I put the new subfloor in do I need to do the same thing? Not sure if the newer frigs require this? Attached is a pic. Sorry the pic is upside down. Always does that with I-pad on here.

[Boog]

I'd keep it. It's there for the refrigerator venting/cooling.

[Boog]

The 1970 Overlander has a hatch door right there, doesn’t it? If you decide that you don’t need the vent, you could always cover it up through the hatch or from underneath.

[StevieB]

It is for Refrigerator venting / air flow. And to the above comment, there was also originally a vented hatch or opening on the side above the unit.

[ALANSD]

the air flow is needed but also if there is an opening in the front of the fridge, underneath the will be venting upward of air through it. Some are sealed there. Mine has a removable panel that stays mostly open.
I had to seal the vent like yours because of a repair that involved a leak thru the fridge vent above when the thing sat in a field for 18 years. So you can imagine the floor or lack of it underneath. When I fixed it I chose to leave the vent out of the plan. Have not had a problem with the 50 year old Dometic at all.

[blickcd]

My trailer has a vented hatch in the wall, low near the floor, much like newer RVs have.

I have seen that older Airstreams had a plain hatch there, no lovers, and the subfloor had a vent like yours. Maybe it was for a cleaner look?

Note that even though I have that vented hatch in the side, I do have a 1" diameter screened hole in the floor. Since propane is heavier than air, if there were a gas leak some might 'pool up' below the threshold of that vented side hatch. The screened hole is a place for propane to 'fall out'.

That said, even if you converted to a vented side panel, you would want some small hole for safety.

[CraigCam]

Thanks a bunch for the info.

[buchab54]

I also am redoing a 1970 overlander and had the exact same hole. As others have mentioned it was necessary to vent the heat produced by the absorption propane fridges. I patched my hole and plan to use an ac/dc marine type fridge powered by a danfoss compressor. The fridge vents its warmed air to the front, and quite a bit less than the absorption propane fired fridge. Of course it uses more electricity.

[Jacob D]

That hole provides combustion air for the propane burner and make up air for the hot air exhaust from the refer which vents thru the roof. That relieves the A/C of some heat gain and prevents the buildup of carbon monoxide in winter when on gas. It also serves, as someone else mentioned, an escape for any leaking LP gas when the refer is on electricity or turned off. In my '67 Overlander it is covered with hardware cloth underneath supporting some kind of tough fibrous material inside to keep pests from entering.

[ALANSD]

While on this subject, in my cabinet over the refrig. There is a hole cut out with a cap in it. This seems to vent the fridge also. But it's weird to me to vent warm air into the cabinet.
I guess it's factory as myntrailer is prett much original. Any of you have this too?

[69Silvrbelle]

So, with regards to the 1x1hole under the fridge in the floor. I understand the propane leak "safety valve" , make up air and all.
I am putting new floors in my trailer now and do not want to put that hole in my floor. I plan on putting the bulkhead between the door and fridge as original, but with a vent at the bottom of the bulkhead and I plan on using floor heat/ac registers. I have the original Dometic fridge and it works like a champ. It has the removable kickplate on the front at the floor that i can remove. Will this idea work?
Thanks!