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09-12-2004, 11:41 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 36
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63 Floor-up Restoration
Just thought that I'd start this up so you-all could hold me acountable to finishing it up.
So far the interior is stripped and we are getting ready for the "Big Lift".
If there is ANYTHING that I should not do during this process please let me know soon. Pics to follow.
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09-13-2004, 10:10 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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Looking forward to seeing your progress - I'm in the process of doing a 1958, so any help you need, just ask away.
Welcome to the forum - we like seeing lots of pictures.
Ken
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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09-13-2004, 11:27 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Blnfuse,
There are lots of things to avoid, but nothing that can't be fixed later. Take lots of measurements before you start. Don't remove any more than the bottom row of interior sheeting. Brace the shell side to side and front to back before you detach it from the floor. Have a safe place to put the shell and stake it down before the snow flies. Save as much of the floor as possible for cutting templates for the new floor.
If you ever get near Minnetonka, give me a call. I have my shell just about ready to reattach.
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09-15-2004, 05:42 PM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 36
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quick cutting
Well as I found out today (in the rain) you CAN use a sharp putty knife to shear off the bucked rivets. i would not recomend this for steel pinned pop rivets. They ripped up my brand new knife. A dead blow hammer worked well.100 cuts today and, 500 tomarrow.
KEEP PRAYING FOR ME.
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09-15-2004, 05:47 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blnfuse
Well as I found out today (in the rain) you CAN use a sharp putty knife to shear off the bucked rivets. i would not recomend this for steel pinned pop rivets. They ripped up my brand new knife. A dead blow hammer worked well.100 cuts today and, 500 tomarrow.
KEEP PRAYING FOR ME.
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Blnfuse:
I'd try drilling the heads first. Then use your putty knife to gently push the heads off. Don't you get a lot of scratches with the putty knife?
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09-15-2004, 09:17 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 541
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Drilling the rivets is the correct thing. When you cut the heads off it stands the chance of scratching the aurrounding aluminum and if a head is stubborn then you will egg the hole which means that you would have to oversize it. Drilling is better because you only drill into the rivet enough to break the head off and then you punch the inner piece into the hole. Usually the hole is left clean by doing this.
__________________
Just adding my 2¢ worth
John G
___________________________
1975 31ft Sovereign International
........Rear Bath Double Bed Model
Tow Vehicle:1999 GMC Serria SLE Classic 1500 5.7Ltr
System: Jordon 2020 Ultima Brake Controller
Hook-Up: Equalizing Hitch and Sway Bar
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09-17-2004, 05:03 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 36
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Rivvet cutting (a cutting we will go)
I guess that i did not make myself clear enough for Ya'll.
I am slipping the sharp (again) 1.5" putty knife in between the two layers of aluminum, and shearing (in 1 blow) the ALL aluminum rivets on the exterior bottom connecting surfaces.
Drilling out these 'bucked' rivets on center would be all but impossible. This is a very simple alternative to the 82 brad point drill bits needed for the job.
If yous dont got notin ta do mybes you should try a differnt way like mine.
LOLOLOL. More to come l8tr
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09-17-2004, 05:43 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blnfuse
Drilling out these 'bucked' rivets on center would be all but impossible. This is a very simple alternative to the 82 brad point drill bits needed for the job.
If yous dont got notin ta do mybes you should try a differnt way like mine.
LOLOLOL. More to come l8tr
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To each his own. I didn't have any problem drilling them out with a #30 drill with a split point. Did'nt need to centerpunch them, just lined up on the little dimple.
Took about three hours to to do all the way around.
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06-30-2005, 10:17 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 36
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Still pluggin away
Sorry that it has been sooo long but you know life gets in the way.
July now an we are almost ready to put the body back on.
Have taken pics all the way so there will be a photo book when done.
these things are not as complicated or imposing once you peel there skin off.
Now I CAN ANSWER MOST of the questions that you guys can come up with.
or atleast tell you where to go to get r done.
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06-30-2005, 10:56 AM
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#10
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
.
, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blnfuse
Sorry that it has been sooo long but you know life gets in the way.
July now an we are almost ready to put the body back on.
Have taken pics all the way so there will be a photo book when done.
these things are not as complicated or imposing once you peel there skin off.
Now I CAN ANSWER MOST of the questions that you guys can come up with.
or atleast tell you where to go to get r done.
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You cab post the photos in your photo album, then we can all see how you are doing.
Good luck finishing it. Do you have an ETA for when it will be ready to roll?
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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06-30-2005, 12:06 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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Wow - just read this post - I don't think I would want to use a putty knife to pop the rivets - you will get lots of scratches doing it that way......
I just drill mine out - find it to be pretty easy - just drill enough to punch the rivet out is the standard way of doing things.....
Ken
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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06-30-2005, 04:26 PM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
1969 27' Overlander
Firth
, Nebraska
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 80
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I've been helping John out with this and we haven't put a scratch in it with the putty knife . Actually worked very well. It not only cut the rivets but also cut the sealer that was between the skin and the lower wrap.
Looks like the frame work will be done Fri or Sat , then the new floor goes down. and back on with the body.
The hardest part has just been gettin the time .
Loren
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07-09-2005, 09:18 PM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 36
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a paintin' we have gone
All the welding is done andthe frame is rimed and painted (multi-color blue under the belly-wrap).
Tomarrow 7/10 the floor will be going on.
Stainles carriage bolts and nylok nuts for me.
My bigo-uddy and I will 'GIT-ER-DONE' right quik.
photos to come. J
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07-17-2005, 10:17 PM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 36
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The Body Is On!!!!!!!!!!!
Today the body went back on.
No big troubles except the 40 mph wind gusts rockin an rollin the skin and ribs (NO I MEAN MINE ) SOME RIVETS BACK IN, enough to hold er down.
What a feeling.
now to work on the belly.
AND YOU GUYS SAID " DON'T USE A PUTTY KNIFE"
LOTFLLACM. laying on the floor laughing like a crazzzy man.
GOD is good all the time, and all the time........GOD is good.
Airstreaming is fun: will you play with me?
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07-18-2005, 12:58 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1965 17' Caravel
1968 28' Ambassador
Butte
, Montana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,201
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It's a goood feeling huh ? I did the happy dance for a half hour after I finished attaching the shell to the floor !!
__________________
AIR # 7276, WBCCI # 7276
Project 2k5
Life is a journey, not a destination
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08-02-2005, 02:04 PM
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#16
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 36
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Fresh panties !?
Man what agreat feeling !
as we start to put the outside belly wrap on. I made the joke that it is like slipping new "sexy" panties on an old lady. (I'm 45 and consider that old)
We're using a new type of insulation on the floor and in the walls when they go together. It's the stuff that HVAC guys use to wrap ductwork with. seems this stuff has an R-8 value and is only 1 3/4" thick. Really easy to work with. Underside got sprayed with regular spray adhesive, and the used deck screws with bigo washers just for insurance. Think its going to make for a warm or cool trailer. more l8tr
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08-14-2005, 10:51 AM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 36
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bananna wrapping!
Well guys (meaning all people), one more peice of the bananna wrap to go and the its on to the inside stuff.
This is gonna be cool we have chosen a Nascar theme and the girls have already started on pillows and blankets. treadbright aluminum on the floor ; new shiny skin on the inside and stanless countertops. not only will it be bright but it will be easy to clean.
More l8tr.
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08-14-2005, 01:51 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1976 25' Tradewind
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, Maine to Arizona
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 622
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Wood or Aluminum Floor
Quote:
Originally Posted by blnfuse
treadbright aluminum on the floor
More l8tr.
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Do you have an aluminum floor?
Pictures would be nice but I hear Minnesotans are hardy stock.
You have accomplished what many others dream about, like me.
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08-15-2005, 11:40 AM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 36
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aluminum floor
Yeah Rob I am istalling treadbright 'diamond plate' as a floor covering. We thought that it would look cool with all the racecar stuff.
worried about it being cold? well the fancy insulation we ussed shold take care of that.....(THE WIFE IS YELLING THROW RUGS AT ME). It is going to be neato iwill post pix when done.l8tr
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