Clipper, Cutter, Land Yacht, Interior Updates

[masseyfarm]

And one last picture with the wiring secured on the fan and power plug.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

Applies to the Clipper but may work on other units.

Storage on the Clipper is great, but I am always trying to utilize empty spaces.

Under the dual sinks there is some space that I thought could be put to a better use. I store my Child Proof Stove Protector here but there was still lots of room.

Spare Paper towel rolls take up a lot of room, are light, and are best stored where they have no chance of getting wet. I thought this idea would get them out of space that could be better used for other storage.

I cut up a flat piece of plexi, and a short piece of vinyl siding for edge support. The plexi goes over the false wall at the rear of the cabinet and extends to the Clipper outside wall. (This dead service area holds all the plumbing/wiring that runs up the DS wall.)

I mounted the plexi off level to the DS to keep the paper rolls from falling out.

This does not interfere with anything else under the sink, or the filter. The shelf can be removed easily if needed without tools.

Holds 5 rolls of Paper Towels, maybe 6 if you want to cram them in.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

Yes, I broke down and got my moisture meter today.

CanTire have them on sale this week.

The "bare feet" method works good for initial detection, but this tool might be better able to determine the extent and source of a leak??

Dave

[masseyfarm]

Update: After looking over the situation, I added a sideguard (scrap piece of vinyl) on the rear side and find if I store the paper rolls lengthwise, this area will now hold 7 rolls of paper towels. (no picture of this but you can see the original plan left room above the rear behind the sink)


Dave

Originally Posted by masseyfarm;1195147I cut up a flat piece of plexi, and a short piece of vinyl siding for edge support. The plexi goes over the false wall at the rear of the cabinet and extends to the Clipper outside wall. [I

(This dead service area holds all the plumbing/wiring that runs up the DS wall.[/I])
I mounted the plexi off level to the DS to keep the paper rolls from falling out.
Holds 5 rolls of Paper Towels, maybe 6 if you want to cram them in.
Dave

[masseyfarm]

Here is the picture of the paper rolls as they are stored now.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

Another Clipper update.

Above the pull out pantry, there was a lot of dead unused space available. A few years ago, I used two short pieces of stair nosing for rails, and a wire shelf sourced from a local garage sale to make a shelf for storing Cling Wrap, Tin Foil Wrap and other longer items that are hard to store in the regular cupboards.

The self slops to the sidewall and has a fridge divider installed to hold the items secure on that "Yukon" run.

This worked so good I kind of forgot about doing it.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

We hope to do some more traveling as the weather cools so I thought it appropriate to install an Oyster Hair Dryer so we are not starting out in the mornings with a wet head.

I might have to install more SOLAR production to run it.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

Thanks to another thread -- http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...ml#post1221558 -- I finally got around to posting the Clipper height in the cockpit area so that this critical information is displayed there in the chance that someone else has to drive my unit.

Airstream lists all these Class A's of this period as being 11' 10" high. But this may apply only to the straight rail chassis, as the raised rail chassis (my unit) is a shade over 12 feet.

I can drop the Clipper to 11' 10" by dumping the air suspension to get through a 12' shop door.

I have also installed solar panels on the ac covers which add another 2". (I forgot about these when I made up my labels today, so I better redo the label for another 2".)

Point is to post the information in the cockpit where it can be seen so that there is no doubt when approaching that low overhead that you have enough clearance. I have one label on the GPS unit and one label by my coffee cup.

Going to change them right now before I forget again.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

The Clipper is now winterized, but I do and have, alway kept the heat on low all winter. I have the twin LPG furnaces set at 50* and a ceramic heater set to cycle above the furnace thermostat setting to keep the chill off. If I want to work in the Clipper it is only a few moments after turning up the thermostat to make it comfy. (the cost of comfort )

I am always looking for more efficient methods so ease the heating bill and, to this end, this year I have 'shrink wrapped' the screens.

I have wrapped my screens with commercial shrink wrap, (that is used for pallet wrap), along with the clear 'packing bubble wrap' that I have used in previous years, between the glass and screen.

It is not a fashion display, but it does the job. It allows light transmission, and does not retain moisture. If one wanted to trim the edges after installation, it would make for a neater install.

I completely wrap the screen, hold and heat the edges, trim, and then heat the front and back face to shrink it to a tighter fit.

The screen still snaps into the window frame as the clear film is not bulky.

Cost is negligible, so it is just time involved, and the wrap pulls off without any residue when you want to discard it.

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

No, it is not titled in error.

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

The Clipper was not equipped with dual pane windows in 1996. That option became available on a wider scale in 1997.
With all the trouble owners had with the seals leaking/traveling up into the window view, the industry eventually abandoned the idea for most RV's.
However, there are some energy savings that can be made with a small investment in time and $$$$.
Dave

[masseyfarm]

I recently had to buy a new tarp for the back lean-to at the shed and the poly bag it came in was undamaged and probably 4 mil thickness.

I hate to discard anything of value, so tonight I slit the bag on the edges, and used it to isolate the front Penquin air conditioner from my expensive heat.

I used a scrap piece of vinyl siding to push the poly between the ac trim and the ceiling vinyl on the Clipper. I was able to tuck it in on all sides to seal the ac from the interior. (any drop sheet material should work as long as you are careful not to put a hole in it when installing.)

In previous years, I had just stuffed some scrap insulation into the vents, but I think the air seal might work better.

Tomorrow, I will use my heat gun to take some temperature readings of the front and back ac to try to determine if it is a worthwhile cold weather improvement.

Even if it is not a measurable factor, I will do the rear unit tomorrow with a piece from my roll of 6 mil that I have in the shop.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

I tried the temp. tests on the Penquins from the inside, but could not detect a finite differential from front to rear.


I also had trouble duplicating the seal on the rear unit with the 6 mil poly as there was not enough slack in the mount to fit the poly into.


To progress, I just used painters tape and taped the poly to the ac mount, after stuffing my usuall bubble wrap pieces and reflectex inside the vents.


We know from previous winters that the snow melts quickly on the surface of the Penquin shrouds, so any attempt to control the heat transfer will be of help.


Dave

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

Even if it is not a measurable factor, I will do the rear unit tomorrow with a piece from my roll of 6 mil that I have in the shop.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

Update on source of Airstream Drawer hardware.

Questions can be asked here - - cs@houckind.com

To find your parts - - Houck Industries Houck Industries Home Page has an ebay outlet for domestic US buyers. Drawer Slides, 700R items in Houck store on eBay!

However, they no longer ship internationally and I was instructed to:

Call 1-812-663-5675 and ask for Vicky. She takes credit card phone orders. She may be able to accommodate you.


Vicky was able to take my order for (051 / 251) and these parts should be in the mail today.


Dave

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

Got my Houck plastic rear mounts for the drawer hardware today. Had three mounts that were broken on the rear of the slides. All fixed now and they work as they should.

The drawer hardware on the CLIPPER uses "Houck CT rear mount bracket STK 251 ADJUSTABLE screw in", and there is a left and right, so be sure to order what you need.

The "751" is somewhat similar but the metal track will not fit in the slide. So look closely at the pictures before ordering.
The brackets on the Clipper have a number stamped into the rear mount.
The new brackets do not appear to have a number on them.

http://www.houckind.com/PDF/Domestic...Bracketsbw.pdf



Ask for Rick if you have questions about the products.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

I will link this site for general information on working with material for everything from awnings end shields, skirting, to drapery and windshield covers for the motorhome.

Sailrite stocks video

Many good 'how to' videos, that apply to the boating world, but the same technique would be used on RV projects.

Dave
http://video.sailrite.com/allsport-4...c/youtube.html

[masseyfarm]

We had our first snow last night so now I can show that the winterization of the Penquins has been a worthwhile project.

I can not find any previous pictures with melted snow on the Penquin covers, but memory tells me that there were always the three areas of snow melt. The two Penquins, and the refrigerator vent.

With the air seal on the interior of the Penquins, these pictures prove that heat loss is greatly reduced at those points.

Temperature on the LPG furnaces are set at 50* and I have one ceramic heater set about 55* that runs almost constantly in the CLIPPER.

The fidge on the CLIPPER is never shut off as we use it for extra cold storage.



Dave

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

I used a scrap piece of vinyl siding to push the poly between the ac trim and the ceiling vinyl on the Clipper. I was able to tuck it in on all sides to seal the ac from the interior. (any drop sheet material should work as long as you are careful not to put a hole in it when installing.)

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

Dave

[masseyfarm]

This little project completed today as the weather is not too bad for working outside.

Problem was - - on the navigator's Captain Chair there was no foot rest on the OEM installation. MGW has mentioned many times that if we ever change that chair to be sure to get one with a footrest.

Over the years she has used different items including a collapsible stool to rest her feet on.

I looked at this last month and thought I could come up with something that might work.

I purchased today, a 60" length of 5/8" aluminium round stock. $13.70.

I did my bending on the truck trailer hitch and some fine tuning on the tractor draw bar.

I had a soft cover from an old bike rack that I slide over the aluminium.

The finished total length of mine is 52". I could have made it a bit longer but I wanted to still be able to swivel the chair with it on.

The foot rest is easily removed by pulling straight out of the seat base but fits snug enough to not slide when foot pressure is applied.

The upper angle can be increased depending on what length your navigators legs are.

I think this is going to work great and again it gets loose items (ie: stool) out of the work area.

I am finished for today as babysitting starts in an hour, but next time I have the grinder out, I will taper the ends of the foot rest a bit so that they are easier to guide into the seat base with hand feel only.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

This morning I have decided to move the Thermos from the CLIPPER panty to vacate space there for more often used items.

I trimmed up a scrap piece of plumbing pipe and mounted it under the sink in an area that was open and not in the way for other use.

I stuck a piece of 'stick on' insulation at the bottom for a anti rattle cushion

Easy to reach for the few times its needed.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

I need to repair my day/night shade at the emergency exit window that has been neglected to long.

I was going to order a new one but this video details enough information that I should be able to repair it. Once you have good instructions anything is easy. But its that first time thats scary!

Dave

HOW TO: Re-String a Pleated RV Window Shade - YouTube

[masseyfarm]

The DOCK LIGHTS on the AIRSTREAM CLIPPER, Land Yachts, XC, XL and A models used a Halogen Sealed Beam GE #H 9406 (may also use H 9405, H 9411, H 9414) lamp. These are no longer common stock at most automotive stores and may have to be ordered in. The ridiculous price is now over $35.00/ea. retail.

My local jobber did not have stock until next week (long weekend here) so I called my old working acquaintance at the local Volvo truck shop and they stock the same lamp which was used on the Volvo trucks a few years ago. Volvo stock it as a GE H 9415 or H 9420 or H 9421 depending on lamp projection area, with a Volvo stock # 3946938 or #3919800.

The price would still be called a sellers market opportunity but lower than jobber retail.

Test run today, all systems go, and we are ready to roll.

Dave

Originally Posted by masseyfarm

Again, this applies to the Clipper but may be of help on other units.

I will enter this here, although it is an outside item, it is to reduce the light reflection when backing into that strange spot after dark.

After being frustrated with having trouble seeing clearly when backing into those cg's or boondocks sites after dark, I started with the improvements posted earlier in this thread. I also was not happy with the reflection off the, (drivers side in particular) dock light, and installed a translucent shade, made up by cutting a green plastic container. That did help but I have now upgraded that by using some scrap white vinyl that blocks the glare completely.

The front dock lights are not normally visible in the mirrors so are not a problem. But I have done this on both mid body dock lights. With the vinyl, it will bend if contacted, and is not something that can cause injury to the kids it they rub up against them.

Easy to do if you have this problem.

Dave

[masseyfarm]

The cheapest place to buy the H 9406 sealed beam seems to be Ryder @ $14.63.


Sealed Beam Lamp Rec-48 Tractor Flood Blade Term, H9406, GE Lighting - Ryder Fleet Products

Dave

[masseyfarm]

There never seems to be enough power plugs in the vehicles to run all the gadgets we want today.

On the OEM Clipper, there was one power plug located to the passenger side of the center console.

I had made some changes as time went by but there always was a nest of wires on the console.

Today I had some time so made some changes to help alleviate this problem.

I had previously installed a new power plug for the GPS on the upper console and have now added a second plug here for the in/out temperature display. These both run off the ignition circuit as they are only used while underway and are wired with #12 wire and a 15A fuse.

I like my coffee hot and have always used a heated cup while traveling. This wire now is buried in the console and goes to a live three position powerplug manifold that I have relocated to the location of the original powerplug on the right side.

I have also installed another powerplug and a USB plug also on the right side of the console. This powerplug is also #12 with a 20A fuse and will allow the use of my new 12V electric blanket if it is ever needed at the front seat.

Previously, when I had installed the radios, I had added a power plug to that area in case it was needed. However, to date I have seldom used it. It is close enough to the couch that it might come in handy someday.

Dave