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Old 11-30-2014, 01:36 PM   #21
Rivet Master

 
2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
Some breaker panels also prevent you from using thin breakers with notches in the bussbar ends the
Breaker goes on. No notch, no doubles. Ran into that a few times. Make sure box will take them.


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'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
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Old 12-01-2014, 06:02 AM   #22
Rivet Master
 
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Ebro , Fla Panhandle
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,212
Great suggestions for solving the electric supply issue.
So far the original breaker box is doing the job for my unit and I would like to stay with it if possible. Will look into the thinner breakers to see if one will squeeze in there.

Gregsch, wondering about the hose that runs from your inlet to the out let , is that a bypass?

Thanks Richard
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Old 12-01-2014, 06:30 AM   #23
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1995 36' Classic 36
Ludington , Michigan
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,662
Adding a breaker generally isn't the problem. 50 amps is my problem. I need to have a priority selector, either manual or automatic between a AC unit and the electric hot water. Both roof AC units push it close to the max for either shore power or the generator.
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Old 12-02-2014, 04:25 PM   #24
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1979 24' Airstream Excella 24
Tipp City , Ohio
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 551
Richard, Yes that is a bypass. Bought it on ebay. The manufacturer is Camco. It comes in set with everything you need to complete the installation.
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:48 PM   #25
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1999 35' XL 355 w/slide
Arlington , Tennessee
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Kota: 50 amps supplies 50 amps to both sides of the system so you have about 100 amps total. 12-13 amps for the electric hot water and less than 16 amps for AC still leaves plenty of room on either side. Of course, you can't run both on the generator output which is usually 20 amps on one side and 30 amps on the other.
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